SRX keeps blowing belts...

I left the bar. Let the sled warm up. Rode a few slow passes in front fate bar to make sure the sled was warm, started going down the side of the lake with maybe 1/2 throttle for about half a mile then wacked it. 10 seconds later belt blew. I'm pretty sure it was warm


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I did my clutch alignment with one of my dad's contracting rulers so I'm pretty sure it was accurate enough. Maybe I'll just get the tool. How good is this 20 dollar tool I've heard about?


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Ok so I tore into the sled more today. Pulled chain case apart and pulled the brakes off. Brake pads are low so I'm gonna replace them now and they weren't causing any drag and the shaft spins very easy and has no play but my track is still hard to spin by hand and it's 3 fingers width loose. I'm assuming this could be my issue?

Frozen bogey wheel or drive cog bearings. Could that be causing too much drag and blowing belts?


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Something is definitely amiss as SRXs just don't blow belts..especially OEM ones.

The track should spin easily, especially with no chain on.
I would suspect you need new bearings on your drive axle.
Since you already have it disassembled, I would suggest you replace both the bearings and seals at top and bottom of the chaincase as well as speedo drive side bearing on axle and jackshaft bearing behind secondary clutch.

While you are working on it ensure the jackshaft bearing collar is not broken or moving in the bulkhead.
 
So basically I should pull the driveshaft out and replace all 4 bearings both drive shaft and jack shaft? Are they relatively cheap? And can the driveshaft be pulled with suspension in?


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88 yamaha 570 said:
So basically I should pull the driveshaft out and replace all 4 bearings both drive shaft and jack shaft? Are they relatively cheap? And can the driveshaft be pulled with suspension in?
Click to expand...

OEM bearings are never inexpensive but they are of good quality and you may never have to do it again.
I have never removed a drive shaft without pulling the suspension and track...
 
I had a primary clutch with a fine crack and I was destroying belts too.....get rid of that clutch, before it totally grenades and wrecks more than just your clutch. I think when the clutch gets hotter the crack probably spreads and snags your belt
 
Ya I'll be replacing the clutch also and I called my local parts supplier and driveshaft bearing kit was 33 dollars not sure on price for jack shaft yet. I'm going to fix the hard track spinning before I replace the clutch


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The other reason I don't think it's clutch is I can ride 1000s of miles on a belt and they don't break or wear but it's only at speeds greater than 95mph at full throttle so I know the cracks aren't hitting it


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Ok so I went to pull the skid out to check driveshaft bearings and I got like 6 bogey wheels bad. 3 of 4 rear wheels are melted from being worn and one of two upper wheels where the skid bolts in was seized


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Turns out all the plastic that the bearings run on are melted. Gonna have to get new ones and new wheels


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Remember to use the brakes for corners now lol, your sled will coast alot better, and feel like you've got an extra 50hp under the hood.

Now save up to replace that time bomb clutch.
 
Ya lol I need to get parts for this. I'll plan for that with tax money if there's any left and I'll post up a pic of my old clutch. People thought I was crazy using it


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SMA-BILBU-00-00 small billet wheel adapter bushing. for the plastic bushings on the front 4 wheels, I recommend these for replacement. the plastic spacers never stay good. I replaced a set of plastic ones and the next year they where worn as much as the ones I replaced. replaces the whole mount. I did my dads 05 sxventure this year and they where very easy to change.
 
They got a cheap 20 dollar one I've heard about that requires measurements still. The good one needs no measurements and is like over 100


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