Anybody ever have this happen?

sleddineinar

sleddineinar

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Dec 13, 2007
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Ramsey Minnesota, United States
So I got some parts for my speedo drive on my sled recently and it's warm enough to work on it today. I drove it into the garage and pulled off the secondary. I was a bit surprised to find this. I took the pics after taking the 2 bolts out.Photo0234.jpgPhoto0235.jpg

I have some 3/16 x 4" aluminum stock, if I mounted that to the tunnel, is there still enough clearance for the secondary?
 
I would say since the top of the aluminum over hangs towards the clutch quite a bit and it doesnt hit that. just to make sure push in on the helix so the sheave opens all the way and push the belt down into it to keep it open. check and see how much clearance you have on the back then.
 
I'd say you would be fine. getting the alignment right might be challenging though.
 
Well, I'll post a picture of what the repair looks like when done. I was going to use a hole saw and cut the same size as the hole in the side of the tunnel, so the clutch will still sit up against the bearing, and the bearing should still be in the same place as it is now. I ordered a new retainer since the old one is broken. what sucks is I need to take the chaincase apart, to pull the jackshaft back, to install the new retainer. Oh well!
 
Worst part of the whole ordeal is getn the damn airbox back on the carbs. Ive had to do way to many times this winter ;) I also found it a bit of a pain getting the jackshaft in and out. You have to bend the body pretty good cause theres no hole for it to go through.
 
Air box is a lot smoother going in and out if you take the top off. Reaching in to help the boots on cuts down on the frustration quite a bit.
 
if the bearing will slide back on the shaft(towards the chaincase),just remove upper gear..push jackshaft out towards the clutch side..make sure you catch the rotor key.Then lift up the shaft and slide it up over the chaincase.I had to remove the calipers in order for the shaft to pass on by.Just did this myself to change jackshaft and bearing.Didn't have to pull the whole chaincase out.,
 
I had to pull the chaincase anyway but how did doing that not come to mind??? There i was fighting the plastic body. Atleast il know for next time. Try not to lose the rotor key if you do it that way as blue said. It would be a bad day if it were to drop down into the chassis.
 
Nice job!
My friend with a very high mileage 98 SRX had the same thing happen to him...He repaired it in a very similar manner and has had no issues with it for the last two seasons.
 
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