(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
Yea i was just reading over your post tonight and even with the relay unplugged i have no spark at all and it wont start. So your telling me the only other thing it could be is a rub through somewhere? A stator wouldnt cause the issue at all? It just seemes odd i wasnt jumping the sled or anything when it died, it was on flat groomed trail.
If unplugging the white relay did NOT allow you to start sled it is unlikely a typical rub through or short like I had...so I would go with Mrvipers suggestion of investigating the no spark threads. A stator or CDI could be the issue but you need to trouble shoot to narrow it down.
it could be short before the relay probably why it doesn't run without it and it could be another wire ....I didn't see mutch bad cdi ....but it could be a bad stator too...
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
So im trying to get some readings off a multi meter and i am wondering if i am starting in the right place or if i am even doing the test right.
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
The fist picture is the wire that runs under the engine and it looks like someone has pulled it out a wrapped it in electrical tape already, or is this from yamaha? The second picture is of The wires coming out of the stator correct? and the third should be the two relays and CDI box?
TopGunnSrx
New member
The 3 wires are for the generator, the other 2 wire plug goes to the pulse coil. I dont remember what the spec is on the ohms for each, have you popped the recoil and taken a look at it?
The cdi box is below the relays and voltage regulator
The cdi box is below the relays and voltage regulator
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
I did a voltage test on the two wire connector next to the stator connector and the harder i pulled the more voltage i have. when i do and ohm test on the stator it spikes to .6 at the highest and the slowly settles around .2-.1 ohms. Are theses readings what they should be?
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
Am i right in assuming these two red and white & green and white are the same two from the pick up coil? If so i am getting any where from .6xx-.1xx voltage reading at the frist connection and at the plug in for the CDI. Is the too low?
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
Anyone have a service manual they can e mail me?
steveg_nh
New member
When I pulled the harness on my Viper trying to solve an erratic electrical system, I elected not to put it back under the motor for future servicing and peace of mind. (My problem was just a dead battery - I didn't realize an elec start sled required the battery to run right). A real pain in the beck to get out.
That was the problem to begin with. Yamaha thought the harness stand-offs would provide protection from chaffing and only wrapped the harness in tape. They were wrong.
I'd suggest pulling the harness (tie a string to one end and use the string to pull it back through when you're done repairing it). Once the harness is out, remove the tape and inspect for rub throughs, solder and shrink wrap the repair, retape and install some split convolute to protect it and reinstall. You can find the convolute in rolls at most auto parts stores. Splitting some heater hose in place of the convolute works too.
I prefer installing the harness in the same location (once it's protected with convolute) given the only place to re-route the harness is along where the pipes are. Ask Blue about that.
I'd suggest pulling the harness (tie a string to one end and use the string to pull it back through when you're done repairing it). Once the harness is out, remove the tape and inspect for rub throughs, solder and shrink wrap the repair, retape and install some split convolute to protect it and reinstall. You can find the convolute in rolls at most auto parts stores. Splitting some heater hose in place of the convolute works too.
I prefer installing the harness in the same location (once it's protected with convolute) given the only place to re-route the harness is along where the pipes are. Ask Blue about that.
steveg_nh
New member
I spent some time figuring out how to reroute it safely as I was worried for the reasons you mention. It's in split loom, and goes up from the carb area near the exhaust can, to the airbox, and it's supported across the front of the airbox by more of those flexible clamps, and then down the PTO side to the hood connections. Nowhere near any heat or moving parts, and no more worries about a rub through. I was just worried about getting my hands back under the engine to properly get the clips re-secured.
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
I took it out last night and it had tape around it then the convolute all the way from the carbs past the water pump and then had more tape around that. Plus I had zero run through anywhere wires are in great shape. Where's another spot I can check? I'm lost here guys can't find my problem at all. I have voltage coming from the pick up. About .5-.6 volts depending in how hard I pill. And I checked it at the CDI box and I get the same reading there. Is there a load tester for a stator? Any way to test a bad CDI other than swapping it out?
see if anyone around you has a 2001 srx or even a 2002 srx cdi , a viper cdi will also work to see if you just have spark.
have you checked the key switch and the on/off switch on the handlebars with your ohm meter to make sure they are not shorted out?
have you checked the key switch and the on/off switch on the handlebars with your ohm meter to make sure they are not shorted out?
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
Yea I checked the kill switch and got the right reading. I don't know anyone with a viper or a srx but I'll look around.
steveg_nh
New member
Bad ground near the powervalve box? I read about that too somewhere.
(GYTR)-YAMI
New member
well after alot of messing around i found my issue. the harness runs from the stator up and to the left by the cdi box. if i move the harness a certain way i get spark again. but if i move it around some more i loose it again. after searching for hours to find the problem i finally gave up and decided to get a new harness. if i can find one.
If you have the harness out, attach an ohm meter to each end of each circuit and do a wiggle test on each wire. While not common, it's possible to have a wire that breaks the wire strands while leaving the insulation intact. A real bugger to find but it may show itself as slight twist in an otherwise straight wire or the insulation will feel soft.
Your wiggle test that lead you to condemn the harness was successful. You either have an intermittent open or short circuit to ground. The open will either be a cut wire or a hidden open as described above and should show up with a resistance check while wiggling. A short to ground will show up with a close inspection as a chafe/rubthrough.
I should also mention that you could have a short from one wire to another within the harness but again, that will show up with a close visual inspection
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