pulling hairs over here

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yammitrip1

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Oct 19, 2013
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rome
Sled is a 2002 sx viper, last year broke a primary clutch so replaced it with a used one. Did a 128 extension to the skid and tunnel and got a track. put a edge skid under neath it with the clicker shock, c& a skies and top it off i bought some heel clickers. Problem being my god damn sled keeps bogging. Right off from the intial hit sled instantly jumps to 8500-8600, then about mid shift something drags it down real hard. bogs it down to 8200-8300. Then maybe slowly creeps to 8400. after doing 5-6 wide open runs over the course of 600 feet or so. Go shut down sled. the secondary is nuke warm. The primary near the center of the clutch isnt bad. Whats really really hot is the upper part of the clutch or higher parts in the sheave....

my set up. 5 grams in the heel, 3.3 in the center, 3.3 in the tip. red spring. 48-35 helix in the rear with a stock yamaha red spring wrapped to 90. gearing 23-38 with 8 tooh drivers which equals out to 1.86 ratio. Went through the carbs in the beginning of the year, just rebuilt the primary clutch got the parts from snowdad on here. Guy saved me some money and ships fast by the way. But any who my compression is starting from mag side. 128 120 115. mains are stock 156.3 needles stock and pilots stock. Would really really like some help here guys or atleast shoot me towards the right direction. Or else i am going to accidently drop a match in the gas tank
 
Have you cleaned/checked your power valves?
Do you have your vent lines plugged in to the airbox?

Otherwise it sounds like your going to have to lighten the weights a bit in the centre.
 
so to test if your slipping the belt in the sec just simply put the rear twist to 100 and see if the bog gets better, granted its going to hamper the topend but what your wanting to do is try and hang onto the belt. I belive your having issues due to the skid,track length and lug size along with 8 tooth drivers in the mix as far as throwing off your shift curve. I would even try a green spring in the back at 80-90 and see if the bog goes away, report back.

the secondary clutch is torq. sensing so it reacts to drag and load.
 
I also should add while you can make most any brand helix work, when I give out a set up and use a specific brand thats whats been tested, so the 48/35 will most likely shift a bit differnt then does the dalton in which I use in the viper set ups.

its not that you need to go buy a differnt helix but the set up may need to be made a bit differnt, as maybe the ramp holds the start angle longer then the dalton, which would cause a bog on the backshift if its not going down into a low enough gear.
 
checked the powervalves, idle it down to 800 or so rpm, took off cover on on the actuator and watch rotate, pulled valves and they are nice and clean and i did properly adjust with the 2.5mm allen method when i got the sled. vent is hooked to air box. i believe it is clutching i hope any way. Mr viper, lol to be honest with you, when i first bought these heel clickers and you recommend your cake recipe to me. i looked for a cheaper alternative for my helix. Being daltons were 125 bucks and i always did business with pioneer. I went his route because of the cost and i like his operation and which now i am coming to the conclusion that i should of just bought the right parts cause i am seriously at wits end with this thing lol. but for now i will work with what i got. I keep thinking to myself, the more weight you throw in a primary the more power you are producing and keep comparing it to my brothers sled. I mean we do have the same exact setup besides the helix. i am just going to take both his primary and secondary, throw it on my sled. Ride it around and see what happens.That way i can rule out that my sled either has something else wrong with it or the damn clutching is really weird. i will report back in a few days.
 
and to not mr viper, maybe you miss read or i am thinking backwards. but the primary was hot to the touch, not the secondary. secondary was nuked, outer sheaves of primary were wicked hot. So wouldnt tightening the secondary make it even worse?
 
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nuke= hot, luke =lightly warm, so your referance leads one to believe the back clutch was smokin hot. If the front clutch is hot ,well, you need more clutch weight like i originally said...should be 4.3 in the tip, not 3.3.

Also, you need a new or near new 8dn yamaha belt, not a aftermarket.

in your description we are talking about a 300rpm concern, which tells my small brain that your slippingn the belt only slightly, so thats why i merely said, just increase the rear twist to 100 degrees see if that goes away and increases the rpm without the bog, regardless of what the topend mph does. This way you know which way to go.
 
alright i will try that and lol i am sorry about the nuke, i meant luke. Christ i am losing it! i will try the wrap to 100. Check rpms then check then clutch sheave heat. and report back
 
Okay so getting close. Finally in a right direction. My set up now. 15.6 rollers, red heel clicker spring. 48 35 pioneer helix stock red spring 80 twist. 8 tooth drivers 128 cobra track. I am 240 dressed. I put 3.3 in tip, 5.5 in heel middle empty. It was kinda warm today but I gps 88.9 mph. @ 8400. Start off the line pulls up to 8600. Temps were 36 degrees. Pulls wicked hard and kinda overloads the engine but I am going to wait till it cools again to see if the power gains will bring me up. I am happy . clutches are warm bit not hot. I can hold my hand on them
 
still unsure of why it might be dipping down on top end though. maybe i should try the weight in the heel but i think that will effect the top end. let me know what you guys think
 
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