updogcharmer
New member
wondering if I can get some tips as to what to do for optimun performance in this guy?
thanks
thanks
Backwoods M Max
New member
From my other thread, I can't tell you why the different springs work better, but they do. My setup advice was from Tom Hartman for a mm on a stock pipe. I have geared it down to 1.95:1 (20/39) and put 10 degrees less wrap on the stock 43% helix.
If you want to start with the baseline mountain max setup, you would need to change the weights/rivets, rollers, springs and maybe helix. Once you have that done, you can start tuning it like its a mountain max. From the lengthy conversations I have had with Tom the stock parts are a good way to start. Once you get them all in, running pinned down a nice soft trail you want to be between 8500-8700 rpm. Any difference can be tuned by changing rivet weight. The biggest thing I learned about clutching is that there is no one size fits all response for a clutch setup. Even rider weight could have an effect at the end of the day if your looking for the last little bit.
If you want to start with the baseline mountain max setup, you would need to change the weights/rivets, rollers, springs and maybe helix. Once you have that done, you can start tuning it like its a mountain max. From the lengthy conversations I have had with Tom the stock parts are a good way to start. Once you get them all in, running pinned down a nice soft trail you want to be between 8500-8700 rpm. Any difference can be tuned by changing rivet weight. The biggest thing I learned about clutching is that there is no one size fits all response for a clutch setup. Even rider weight could have an effect at the end of the day if your looking for the last little bit.
updogcharmer
New member
Rpm is good 8700...just seems alittle off on bottom endQUOTE=Backwoods M Max;648303]From my other thread, I can't tell you why the different springs work better, but they do. My setup advice was from Tom Hartman for a mm on a stock pipe. I have geared it down to 1.95:1 (20/39) and put 10 degrees less wrap on the stock 43% helix.
If you want to start with the baseline mountain max setup, you would need to change the weights/rivets, rollers, springs and maybe helix. Once you have that done, you can start tuning it like its a mountain max. From the lengthy conversations I have had with Tom the stock parts are a good way to start. Once you get them all in, running pinned down a nice soft trail you want to be between 8500-8700 rpm. Any difference can be tuned by changing rivet weight. The biggest thing I learned about clutching is that there is no one size fits all response for a clutch setup. Even rider weight could have an effect at the end of the day if your looking for the last little bit.[/QUOTE]
If you want to start with the baseline mountain max setup, you would need to change the weights/rivets, rollers, springs and maybe helix. Once you have that done, you can start tuning it like its a mountain max. From the lengthy conversations I have had with Tom the stock parts are a good way to start. Once you get them all in, running pinned down a nice soft trail you want to be between 8500-8700 rpm. Any difference can be tuned by changing rivet weight. The biggest thing I learned about clutching is that there is no one size fits all response for a clutch setup. Even rider weight could have an effect at the end of the day if your looking for the last little bit.[/QUOTE]
updogcharmer
New member
rpm is good at 8700 just seems a little off n on the bottom and
Backwoods M Max
New member
What is your gearing? Have you done the magic marker trick on the primary to see how much of your clutches you are actually using. If your not getting to the top of the primary you can gear down and not lose any top speed while still getting a better low end pull.
updogcharmer
New member
please tell me the majic marker trick... newone for me
thanks
thanks
Backwoods M Max
New member
You draw a line from the center of the primary out to the lip. Go out and ride, nothing different than what you normally do. Come back and look at the marker that's left. If the marker is gone your using all the gear ratio in the clutches when you ride. If there is marker it means that your not using all the gear ratio across the clutches. It means you can gear down more and not change top speed because there is still more gear ratio to go. The clutches run cooler and the motor will be happier with more reduction in the chain case, but it still won't change top speed at all.
updogcharmer
New member
my gears are 2140 currently... I ordered a 20 top. I did some testing yesterday RPM's are really solid at 8700... think I'm using all my clutch as well so wondering if the secondary for mountain max is going to be something I should noticeably see different?
=updogcharmer;648366]Rpm is good 8700...just seems alittle off on bottom endQUOTE=Backwoods M Max;648303]From my other thread, I can't tell you why the different springs work better, but they do. My setup advice was from Tom Hartman for a mm on a stock pipe. I have geared it down to 1.95:1 (20/39) and put 10 degrees less wrap on the stock 43% helix.
If you want to start with the baseline mountain max setup, you would need to change the weights/rivets, rollers, springs and maybe helix. Once you have that done, you can start tuning it like its a mountain max. From the lengthy conversations I have had with Tom the stock parts are a good way to start. Once you get them all in, running pinned down a nice soft trail you want to be between 8500-8700 rpm. Any difference can be tuned by changing rivet weight. The biggest thing I learned about clutching is that there is no one size fits all response for a clutch setup. Even rider weight could have an effect at the end of the day if your looking for the last little bit.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
=updogcharmer;648366]Rpm is good 8700...just seems alittle off on bottom endQUOTE=Backwoods M Max;648303]From my other thread, I can't tell you why the different springs work better, but they do. My setup advice was from Tom Hartman for a mm on a stock pipe. I have geared it down to 1.95:1 (20/39) and put 10 degrees less wrap on the stock 43% helix.
If you want to start with the baseline mountain max setup, you would need to change the weights/rivets, rollers, springs and maybe helix. Once you have that done, you can start tuning it like its a mountain max. From the lengthy conversations I have had with Tom the stock parts are a good way to start. Once you get them all in, running pinned down a nice soft trail you want to be between 8500-8700 rpm. Any difference can be tuned by changing rivet weight. The biggest thing I learned about clutching is that there is no one size fits all response for a clutch setup. Even rider weight could have an effect at the end of the day if your looking for the last little bit.[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]