2002 Viper research

Wizard

Wizard

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Jan 31, 2013
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98
Age
56
Location
Traverse City, Michigan
I own 3 SRXs and I currently have them all running really well. Selling a VMax and I have my sights on a very nice looking well maintained '02 Viper with 4k miles from the original owner. What issues should I be concerned with; what questions should I ask to be sure he addressed all the known problems with the first year model?
 
The 02 initially had cruddy valving, there was a recall to fix that. Next up would be the motor mounts. These motors are know to break motor mounts because of the lack of a torque arm. They see them aftermarket or from yamaha. 3rd are power valve. If the seller allows you to, pull the power valve caps and check for pull throughs or soon to be pull thoughs. If the machine is studded check all the coolers. Also check along the inside of the tunnel where the heat exchanger that runs under the running board bends to rivet to the inside wall of the tunnel. The running boards are super flimsy and can crack here causing a leak. Other than that look for cruddy bearings in the suspension, the famous groove worn into the primary clutch. check the buttons in the secondary, anything to bargain with the seller over.
 
I wouldn't say not as good. I have one of each. Srx had pullthrough and the viper did not, this is a problem with both machines. It's all in how they are adjusted. The motor mount thing is true they don't have the torque arm and yamaha does adjust them 15mm out so the torque of the engine pull the belt into alignment but I haven't seen too many people complain about broken motor mounts. The tunnel is essentially the same as your SRX.


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the 2002 would also tend to overheat, most people put a cooler in the rear like the srx has. Some say the mid range jetting is to lean in stock settings, but usally will not cause a problem unless bad fuel is introduced. As mentioned add a torque arm and it will be all good, same one as the srx. In stock form they run real good.
 
Also most people put diffrent front shocks on to get the ride they wanted. People looking for better handling put a diffrent sway bar on also (bigger dia). Most of this info in on here for refrence.
 
WedigSRX said:
the 2002 would also tend to overheat, most people put a cooler in the rear like the srx has. Some say the mid range jetting is to lean in stock settings, but usally will not cause a problem unless bad fuel is introduced. As mentioned add a torque arm and it will be all good, same one as the srx. In stock form they run real good.
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Oh the midrange jetting is indeed too lean for todays fuel, theres 4 vipers in the shop right now all with bad rod bearings, and the other thing they all have in common, the needles are not raised..................

RAISE THE NEEDLES IN EVERY VIPER ..............or sooner then later, you will replace the crankshaft...........
 
I purchased my 2002 Viper last year from the original owner. It was completely stock except for a clutch kit and can. I did see evidence that the front/left motor mount bracket bolts were tightened, so I'm guessing they broke at some point (there is no torque limiter, which is dumb, but a new one was cheap and relatively easy to install with the carbs and clutches off).

I installed a rear cooler but I'd leave it out if I were to do it again (it ran 10+ years without it). I would definitely replace the head gasket with an Opticool though.
 
mile9c1 said:
I installed a rear cooler but I'd leave it out if I were to do it again (it ran 10+ years without it).
Click to expand...

First time I heard that... Care to elaborate? I get you ran one for 10 years without it, but why did you add one and what makes you not want it?
 
I didn't run it for 10 years, the previous owner did. I added the cooler after I purchased it last summer because it's reported on here that viper's overheat without it (I "fixed" every issue I could find through internet searches). Now this is just a theory but I think you get more ice build-up under the tunnel if you have a rear cooler. So that's why I'd leave it out, at least until the temperature light came on. With good coolant and and the Opticool head gasket it probably would have been good to go.
 
02 shock valving was very stiff but you can revalve to your preference. I think most of the bottom end issues are caused by bad storage so make sure it wasnt stored outdoors. No rear exchanger means it overheats easily in crappy snow. Mine has 18000km, heres what I did for durability: srx rear exchanger, temp gauge, srx torque stop, put some wire loom on wire harness beneath engine to make sure no rub through. SLP pipes last 8000 km, great power vg torque output, low noise, alright fuel economy at around 10+mpg.
 
Forgot, I put an srx front left motor mount as well.
Don will tell you to richen up the midrange and he is correct. PV most likely will be crudy. Clean and check for pull thrus. Happens even with the best oil. Depends a lot on how you ride and jetting. Clean every year.
 
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