When I get home and have the internet again (my air card died and I'm on a tug boat) I will post the set up pages for you. Without knowing what your weights are, guessing what rivets are in there is just a guess. I gave you sea level setup for a vMax, because the sx, and sx-r (blue sleds) didn't come out until 2000. So I am almost willing to bet money they set up your clutch based on that. If it does have 8ch weights that's exactly why they did it. They are going to tune that sled for what it has for parts, not what it says on the hood. What helix do you have? Can you snap a pic of it and post it, along with the spring hole? You may have a non stock helix in there from the previous owner and that was the best they could do to make it ride right.
As far as roller, there are no part numbers on them, you can easily pull the cover on the primary and measure one with a set of calipers. There are no part numbers on there. Try and give the clutch setup guys a little credit. They do it more often than we all do, and unless he told you that he didn't test the setup give him the benefit out the doubt that he took it up and ran it pinned down a trail to make sure it was in the ballpark.
Go over to Tom Hartman's website and read his page on clutching. It is the best condensed free reading on clutching you will find. I spent a lot of time talking to him over the fall getting my mountain max set up right after it had been set up to trail ride by the previous owner. We changed springs for lower engagement and better back shift. I pulled a weight to weigh it and get a total weight, 48g. I have wanted to get the sled back to stock now that it has a longer track on it to make sure it's running the way it should before tweaking it. The clutch shop had swapped the rivets so they were in the opposite holes, I FREAKED out and though it was the end of the world. Tom said it's fine, as long as total weight is the same. Just go ride it then come back and tell me how it was he said.
I will leave you with this, as he left me: (basic fundamentals) primary spring controls engagement, weight profile and rivets controls up shift, spring wrap and helix angle controls back shift. If you want to work the top end rpm change the tip rivet. If you want to adjust mid range loading change the middle rivet, but it will alter total weight. Helix tension can do a little fine tuning, but for the most part helix angle controls when shift occurs during engine loading.
With that, my fingers hurt and my phone is dead. I will try to get the charts up for you Thursday morning when I'm enjoying my first of 14 Saturday mornings in a row at home.
