136 Viper track question.

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bln4288

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Joined
Jan 12, 2010
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11
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Saginaw county,MI
Hi, I have a 2002 Viper, 136". It's time for a new track. I have a ripsaw 1.25 now with studs. Also have 8 tooth drivers. They look pretty worn, can't really tell till I get it all torn apart. What I am wondering is if I will have any problems getting a Backcountry 1.75 in there? Looks like i might have to take out the front tunnel protectors. Also, if I need new drivers, what ones do you guys recommend? Right now i have four of them in there, looks like the Wahl ones there are only two? Is there anything different I need to do if I go that route? Also is there anything else I need to do, or need to know? thanks
 
You will have no issues with a 1.75 inch track. I had a 2'' under my viper which started life as a 121, i have the 8 tooth anti ratchet and used a 2'' paddle for a pit. I cut it down to a 1.5'' and have had zero issues with clearance. My sled does not have any of the heat exchanger protectors in it.
 
It should fit fine with 8 tooth 2.52 pitch drivers. You will either have to pull the front protectors (they come out easy), or notch the track (don't like this option). I like the Wahl no slip extroverts just fine, but the Avids might be a bit better if you can get them. You just need the 2 extros.
 
Anyone know what size the torx bit is to get the bearing off the clutch side? Also, my gears are 38/20 is that about right, or should i change to something else?
 
Shouldnt need to get that bearing off to change track, case should just pull off. Not sure but its like a 25 torx bit if i remember right. When my case was stuck i found it just as easy to unbolt the bearing retainer, this allowed me enough space to pull the case back. Where are you in saginaw? If ya need help let me know.
 
As you intended you need to take the bearing off the track driver on your speedo side. I believe the bearing retainer is sandwiched between the two layers of the tunnel like the SRX.
 
So i don't have to take that bearing off? Just unbolt the chain case, take the brake off, and slide it to the right? Then just drop the left down and pull it out, or what?
 
bln4288 said:
Does anyone know if that 38/20 gearing is about what i should have?
Click to expand...

20/38 gearing with 8 tooth drivers will be 2.14 gear ratio, thats very,very low, you wont have much speed at all with that.

what kind of riding are you doing with the sled?
 
Mostly trail riding in the UP. Some playing around off trail. It was like that when i bought it, so i just havent changed it. What do you recommend?
 
probally be a bit more fun to ride if you just put the stock 22 tooth top sprocket back in it, that will bump your gear ratio up to 1.94 so youll pick up more mid range speed and topend. your gas mpg will improve slightly as well.
 
Still cant get this thing out. Cant figure out how to get the chaincase off. Does the rotor come with it? What do i do with the parking brake?
 
Leave the parking brake together and just take the whole assembly off the chaincase and hang to the side. The rotor is simply on a key (in a keyway in the jackshaft). However, the rotor likes to bind so just get someone to rattle it around while you pull the chaincase. I assume that you have the gears and chain off, and the brake caliper pulled off and hung to the side as well. Is the track loose too?
 
When you say take the whole assembly off, is it just the one bolt that holds the parking brake on? i'll have to put it back together tomorrow, cause I got it half tore apart right now. Chain, gears, both snap rings, and caliper are all off.
 
Actually (here comes that memory thing) on a Viper just loosen and disconnect the parking brake cable only (very easy to do). Then you can simply leave the parking brake mounted to the chaincase and pull it all with the brake rotor. The parking brake is a bit of a pain to put back together if you take it apart. The 4 strokes you can simply take the parking brake off, but on the trailing arm sleds, you will want to keep it on.
 
Well, got er put mostly back together today. Turned the track by hand and it's rubbing. I think it is rubbing on the top tunnel protectors. I was wondering if I should have taken them out. Looks like I should have. I am thinking that I can take my seat off and drill the rivets out. I'm going to check it out tomorrow.
 
Alright, sorry this is an old thread, i just had a couple more questions. I just bought a 22 tooth sprocket, and am going to be changing that out. I also have the heelclickers in the primary with the red spring. How do you recommend setting up clutching for this for mostly trail riding. Also, i will have to check and see what helix I have, but is there something special I should be looking for there? And I think I have a black spring in the secondary. If there's anything else i should do, or change, please let me know. Thanks.
 
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