Maybe adjust your gearing for less torque out of the hole and more for top end?
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
MOD, THATS WHAT I TOLD YA. good hook!!!! lol. have to restrict back if your limiters are pulled down. 3:16 (yammie tony)
23/39 gearing Double up on the bottom of your transfer rods with big plastic spacers 1/8 space on top, loosen big spring with 1 inch thread showing left, the FRA on bottom setting, limiters all the up, front shocks loosened all the way so more weight in front
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your right tony...restrict back with the transfer rod ??or put alots a bolts in my jacket lollll
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it did launch awsome but would be better if that front sled could stay down more .....so the front of skid could bite longer ...im close to something very good
im there for the gear ....both shock are loose maybe i should give back some pressure on the rear one ...running viper shock under that skid ...and ajust the transfer rod for less transfer
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
yes, and don,t gear up. in my opinion. get it to hookup geared down, e.t. name of the game, not speed. 21-40 is 1/8 mile gearing you need to run. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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i will not change the gear ratio at all ...i will sit on the cab if i can lollll....that sled launch like a rocket so it will stay with those gears
This is what I did with mine and it lifts skis about 4 in and goes.
Front, just loosen up the spring adjusters till it drops down where you want it, then use a small peice of old motorcycle tie down nylon strap, cut it to the length, and heat up a old screwdriver, melt a hole in each end for the bolts to go thru on the shock mounts, add a washer and your done.(but put the straps on last after you do the rear skid)
Rear:, loosen up the front skid shock spring, then place a 4x4 block of wood under front of curve on rails/skid, set sled down on it and crank down the front limiter straps.
next loosen up the rear shock spring till you have 1 inch of thread showing, put FRA adjuster bolt on medium. Now the track rear wheels will be about 8 inchs off the ground, all you have to do is remove the bolt from the transfer rods and start adding shims(plastic spacers) to the BOTTOM side of the rods, this will lower the back down and even it out, youll start to see the track sit flat from the drivers to the rear wheels, try and keep about a goal 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the drivers and the surface, this way you wont bend the driveshaft if you hit a bump. Youll fine tune the rear with the front ski shocks, the more you raise up the front the more the rear wheels will get closer to the ground, but if you add enough shims to the bottom of the rods it will pull them right down,so just get the front close and do the straps to keep from loosing the spring retainers when the front end will come up off the springs last.
this will be fairly stiff and offer only about 2-3 inchs of travel. youll only have about a 1/2 of gap on the top side of the transfer rods, but the sled will hook hard because more of the track sirface is touching the ground, penetrating the ice and providing traction.
From Mr. Viper I think
Front, just loosen up the spring adjusters till it drops down where you want it, then use a small peice of old motorcycle tie down nylon strap, cut it to the length, and heat up a old screwdriver, melt a hole in each end for the bolts to go thru on the shock mounts, add a washer and your done.(but put the straps on last after you do the rear skid)
Rear:, loosen up the front skid shock spring, then place a 4x4 block of wood under front of curve on rails/skid, set sled down on it and crank down the front limiter straps.
next loosen up the rear shock spring till you have 1 inch of thread showing, put FRA adjuster bolt on medium. Now the track rear wheels will be about 8 inchs off the ground, all you have to do is remove the bolt from the transfer rods and start adding shims(plastic spacers) to the BOTTOM side of the rods, this will lower the back down and even it out, youll start to see the track sit flat from the drivers to the rear wheels, try and keep about a goal 1/2" clearance between the bottom of the drivers and the surface, this way you wont bend the driveshaft if you hit a bump. Youll fine tune the rear with the front ski shocks, the more you raise up the front the more the rear wheels will get closer to the ground, but if you add enough shims to the bottom of the rods it will pull them right down,so just get the front close and do the straps to keep from loosing the spring retainers when the front end will come up off the springs last.
this will be fairly stiff and offer only about 2-3 inchs of travel. youll only have about a 1/2 of gap on the top side of the transfer rods, but the sled will hook hard because more of the track sirface is touching the ground, penetrating the ice and providing traction.
From Mr. Viper I think
set up the transfert rod haft inch now the sled barely raised ....hope it turn good tomorrow ...................................................
don't forget we need video of you winning or it didn't happen
which weights are u running
which weights are u running
8bu............................................im pretty sure I will not win since they will put me in improve because of those chisel but its gonna be a nice day
back from the race ...finish 3 ..I do have one video that ill post .....big thnx to tony for the great clutch set up .don pizor for gearing ..and a huge thnx to Jamie that guys know very well is stuff ........144 is not enough ....next time will add alots of them ...
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YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
GOOD SHOW MOD. NOW BUILD AND IMPROVE OFF WHAT WE ALL DID HERE. LOVE TO SEE VIDEO. 3:16 (yammie tony)
last race I did was the worst ...60 feet 1.887....660 feet in 7.294 .....90 mph....only paper I got since my friend didn't know about it
so 144 chisels wasn't enough did you spin lots ?
would like to see the video also
would like to see the video also
yes it did spin alots ...it was to warm I think the ice was to smooth ....I will add some for sure for next year ...or lower the engagement I was at 5300
when i had mine on ice I ran 168 and it was enough no spin with 5500 engagment.
where were they beating you on holeshot, mid range, topend
where were they beating you on holeshot, mid range, topend
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
don,t lower engagement, more studs. 3:16 (yammie tony)