sled won't start now....

A

aloo1

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Joined
Sep 3, 2013
Messages
9
Age
39
Location
DENVER
I have a 1996 mountain max 600. bought it used earlier this year. I've been out 3 times on it this year with no problems. Only issue is after I cut it off it takes about 5-8 pulls each time to restart it. Well my friend was riding it and it tends to go wide open all the time. He said he heard a loud back fire and then the sled cut off and we could never get it started again and how to town it back to the trailer. I'm new to sleds so kinda lost here. Any suggestions? Maybe just a smartcarb cleaning is in order? And if so, does anyone have a good link on how to clean the carbs and put them back together properly?
Thanks,
Alan
 
I cleaned the carbs, they weren't that dirty either. Put the "muscle sled" back together. Used a lil engine start to start it. After a few 4-5 second engine running then dying attempts it finally started and when i throttled up it ran great in the high rpm's and stayed like that for a good 30 seconds or throttle blips and then holding high for 10 second then more blips.
problems now:
it won't start unless i use engine start
won't idle.
unplug the tps (i think) and it seems like it would let me drop the rpms to very low and be able to get back in the highs without dying.
with it plugs in, after it would run in the high rpms and sound healthy, if i dropped off the gas and let the rpms drop adn try to get back revving it, it would die.

Did not check compression bc I don't have a tester.

Again, very new to this so any suggestions and help would go far ways with me.
Thanks,
Alan
 
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re-think your carb cleaning, sounds like you missed something or sucked something back in. if you didnt mess with the tps adjustment and it worked fine before, most likely that is not your problem as it wouldnt affect the low circuit.

could also be a choke plunger adjustment issue, low fuel in the tank, or fuel pump. you can use your thumb over the spark plug hole to get an idea of your compression.
 
When was the last time you pulled and inspected the reeds? a chipped or cracked reed valve can cause hard starting, and if you had a back fire that pressurized the case it may have damaged them. Bad reeds will cause hard starting because when your pulling the sled over the charge your drawing in is getting blown back out instead of up through the ports into the top end.

Either way you don't want to keep starting her with juice. The either will burn off any and all lubricating oil instantly and score cylinder liners and pistons regardless of what the can may say about "top cylinder lubrication". The only time I consider it acceptable is on a fogged engine for the first time in the fall when everything is coated in sticky oil. That's a last resort if you can't get the fuel system re-primed by pulling it over by hand.
 
What's a reed? (googled it and still a lil confused as to their part )
I was able to start it again yesterday and yes had to use a lil either but I know you're right and I don't want to keep using it either. I was able to get it running for a while and it would act normal once heated up except it would still try to die when the rpms would go from high to low and then when you would try to rev back up it sounds like its gonna bog. I was going to try to mess with the idle screw when I finally got it to idle for 5-10 sec but then it died because I discovered the idea screw wasn't turning anything b/c the lil part under the screw that has the lil black button wasn't even attached to the screw anymore. so I fixed that and made sure I had slack in my cable and the lever was resting against that black button and now I can't get it to start at all......
also, the wire that comes from the black button is cripped to another that it looks like it almost just loops back to itself so I believe someone has already bypassed the TORS
 
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update. I got it to start today. still had to use starting fluid. it runs fine as long as the tps is unplugged i can let the rpms drop and get back in the highs as longs as i baby it there. I can't let them drop and then throttle down fast or it bogg down. Also it won't idle. I unplugged the wires that come out of the side of the carbs and plug into the harness and switched them. Not sure if that did anything but it seems like it did at the time???? also i noticed what looks to be a small leak of what looks like oil to me from the left exhaust manifold where it bolts to the port....
recap:
won't idle, just dies
won't start without help
can't mash throttle after high to low rpm drop or it dies
leaking oil? from exhaust manifold...
Thanks,
Alan
 
My friend thinks the issue could the carbs need adjusting and they are taking in too much are, that's why it won't idle or won't start on it's own. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Alan
 
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