Hey all, just got my 02 Srx project finished and am having some clutching issues
It has a Mbrp silencer, v force 1 reeds, holes in top of Airbox just under the foam. 40 pilots, 1 1/8 out on air screws, 01 Srx main jets.
I left all the clutching stock for my first few rides just to get a feel for it, loved the fast revving power but it could have used some more engagement rpm for a snappy start...and it was over revving badly 8800 plus ....
As a popular setup I installed the following:
- 4.5 gram pins for the stock weights
- yellow-silver-yellow primary spring
- apex 51/43 helix
- green secondary spring @ 60
First impressions were that it pulled much harder but I lost that revvy, snappy response...it pulls harder now but it doesn't feel as fast or fun because it doesn't rev as fast?
Iam getting used to the setup now , and am liking the lower trail cruise rpms, but it's revving to 8600-8700 rpm on the lake, and I would still like a higher engagement.
What would be my best way to solve this over rev problem?
- just put a 50 wrap on secondary setup I have now?
- put the red secondary spring back in and wrap at 60 to lower my rpm?
- put my secondary back to 100% stock
- install a 24 tooth top gear
And for the engaugement I am looking for around 4300rpm, would engaugement
shims or a WWW primary spring be my best choice?
Thanks for any help guys!
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It has a Mbrp silencer, v force 1 reeds, holes in top of Airbox just under the foam. 40 pilots, 1 1/8 out on air screws, 01 Srx main jets.
I left all the clutching stock for my first few rides just to get a feel for it, loved the fast revving power but it could have used some more engagement rpm for a snappy start...and it was over revving badly 8800 plus ....
As a popular setup I installed the following:
- 4.5 gram pins for the stock weights
- yellow-silver-yellow primary spring
- apex 51/43 helix
- green secondary spring @ 60
First impressions were that it pulled much harder but I lost that revvy, snappy response...it pulls harder now but it doesn't feel as fast or fun because it doesn't rev as fast?
Iam getting used to the setup now , and am liking the lower trail cruise rpms, but it's revving to 8600-8700 rpm on the lake, and I would still like a higher engagement.
What would be my best way to solve this over rev problem?
- just put a 50 wrap on secondary setup I have now?
- put the red secondary spring back in and wrap at 60 to lower my rpm?
- put my secondary back to 100% stock
- install a 24 tooth top gear
And for the engaugement I am looking for around 4300rpm, would engaugement
Thanks for any help guys!
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add 5 to 5.5 grams in the tip and change your wrap to 70 everything else the same. hauck sells adjustable weights
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
with that 51/43 helix you will rev to high.Add more tip weight .Better off with stock 47 helix with 4.5 and 5 tip.If you add engagement shims to gain engagement rpm,watch your wot rpm's even climb higher.I am running 45 pilot jets in my o2 SRX instead of the 40 and am jetted between the 01 and 02 specs.keeps the DCS off for me.
Turl always told me the 47 helix is more aggressive then the 51/43.But got my best speed on bare ice with the 51/43 with green spring at 70 at 119 mph speedo.With the stock weights now with 4.5 inner and 4.9 outer my rpm is fine and average speed on snow pack is 100 to 110.
Turl always told me the 47 helix is more aggressive then the 51/43.But got my best speed on bare ice with the 51/43 with green spring at 70 at 119 mph speedo.With the stock weights now with 4.5 inner and 4.9 outer my rpm is fine and average speed on snow pack is 100 to 110.
If you really want it snappy, install a Heelclicker clutch kit. There are many set ups in the tuning pages. My setup has as much as you can put on the tip, enigh at the heel to bring engagement to 4200 and a 50/40 or 50/38 dalton helix. The only issue now is the traction, as it spins violently.
Thanks for the tips guys, am really hesitant to add more tip weight because I find it revs a lot slower then stock as is...but increasing the wrap to 70 may cover it up but I'll Probally lose top end wrapping to 70
With the stock secondary spring and helix is felt like it pulled hardest, and with the 4.5 rivit in the heel it shouldn't over rev now...hmmm decisions!
I really wanted to try the heelclickers but it wasn't in the budget...went completely through this sled replacing any worn or damaged part with new oem!
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With the stock secondary spring and helix is felt like it pulled hardest, and with the 4.5 rivit in the heel it shouldn't over rev now...hmmm decisions!
I really wanted to try the heelclickers but it wasn't in the budget...went completely through this sled replacing any worn or damaged part with new oem!
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I remember when I had HC's..it did spin violently but could not get good top speeds with them.
That's weird, I got 117 on the speedo with them, but had to let, because it overrevved slightly. I have since bought a new helix.
adding .5 to 1 gram to each tip will drop my rpm how much?
Think I am better of wrapping the apex helix at 70 rather then 60?
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Think I am better of wrapping the apex helix at 70 rather then 60?
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install the w/w/w primary spring
also find a 51/45 helix, that apex helix is really only a 48/42 which is why its over revving on topend.
also find a 51/45 helix, that apex helix is really only a 48/42 which is why its over revving on topend.
Last edited:
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
yes change primary spring to help engagement w-w-w will do that and change helix/cam with higher finish angle to one don suggested. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Thank you so much guys, I found a bender helix stamped 03 RX1 and a pink secondary spring locally...
I tried it tonight with the green secondary spring wrapped at 60 and it was 8100 then 8400...and pulling like a fright train but I lost the snappiness on the trail like it's over shifting...should I try the pink secondary spring at 60 or try the green at 70?
Thanks again guys!
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I tried it tonight with the green secondary spring wrapped at 60 and it was 8100 then 8400...and pulling like a fright train but I lost the snappiness on the trail like it's over shifting...should I try the pink secondary spring at 60 or try the green at 70?
Thanks again guys!
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I just did a search and it looks like a bender 03 RX1 helix is a 51/45! Awesome!
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
belt is probably dropping to quick in the secondary with 60 wrap.Go to green spring at 70.
Thanks bud, I'll be trying the 70 wrap tommarow night after work
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Would putting the stock primary spring back in work as well as the www primary spring?
Ywy - 45/128
Www - 45/119
YSY - 35/118
I also have a bgb 45/106
I am thinking if I wrap to 70 it will increase my rpm to say 8600 from8400? So the blue-green-blue primary spring make being it down to 8500 where I need it and give me the higher engagement I want.
What do you guys think?
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Ywy - 45/128
Www - 45/119
YSY - 35/118
I also have a bgb 45/106
I am thinking if I wrap to 70 it will increase my rpm to say 8600 from8400? So the blue-green-blue primary spring make being it down to 8500 where I need it and give me the higher engagement I want.
What do you guys think?
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if you change nothing else the stock primary spring y-w-y will make more rpm up top then will the current y-s-y spring you have in now. higher force is more rpm.
For sure, but with the wrap on 60, it feels like it's shifting too fast and bogging the engine at trail speeds...the snappiness is gone, just a smooth pull to the excelleration...so when I go to 70 I think I will over rev then...and to fix it I could try the bgb spring to lower the rpm and raise my engaugement....
What I really need to know is how much will my rpms raise going from 60 to 70 wrap?
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What I really need to know is how much will my rpms raise going from 60 to 70 wrap?
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I just went back and read this post from the start. I will say clutch set ups are like cake recipes, you have to use all the ingrediants to have a cake come from the over, or all the listed parts to have the set up work, even then theres some fine tuning to your exact machine. this is because of weight,track,studs,gears,jetting,etc.
if you got 8100out of the start and then it climbed to 8400rpm you were only off a 100rpm from perfect. which would require a slight adjustment to the tip river if the sec. clutch was holding the belt and it has good mph.
now if that isnt what you want then likely the whole clutch set up isnt going to work for you. Sometimes for certain guys stock is the best thing for you to stick with. its a wide variety of rider set up where as this set up your trying is made to make the sled quicker,but if its not to your liking go back to stock and see if you are happy
Totally agree, it falls on it's face in any kind of snow as well, stock it was just revvy and fun like a motor cross bike...I think I'm going to try the bgb primary spring and wrap it at 70...if I don't like that I'll go back to stock and keep the weights fully loaded to keep the rpms down to 8500
Thanks so much for all the advice guys and especially mr viper!
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Thanks so much for all the advice guys and especially mr viper!
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one last thing, the added rivet weight is what makes it more doggy-(heavier) it clamps the belt more increasing speed, so if you want to go back to stock then be sure to put the rivets back to stock also.