89 Exciter PTO Crank Seal Replacement

Black Bear

Black Bear

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Jan 17, 2014
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Is it possible to replace the crank seals without removing the cylinders? Can I just remove the engine split the bottom half of the case off and replace the seals? Anyone done a step by step write up on crank seal replacement?
 
Yes, you can replace the crank seals without taking the cylinders off, but every thing else on the engine needs to come off to split the cases, like the motor mounts, mag/water pump housing, flywheel, stator, etc.
 
You will need a clutch puller, and a three bolt small engine flywheel puller. Its easier to pull the clutch off while the motor is still in the chassis. Impacts are handy for the flywheel nut and clutch puller. A hammer style impact driver really helps with the stator screws. You most likely will end up stripping the screws if you just try a screw driver.
 
Throttle Junkie

As always thanks for the info. I will need to replace the crank seals on two of my four machines. My rpm's drop if I spray carb cleaner on the PTO seal.

Can you recommend a clutch puller? CMP?
Three bolt small engine puller? Does this need to be Yamaha or can it be universal?
Impact Driver- I am assuming any hammer style will do
Should I apply a small amount of heat to the stator screws? What is your experience
Do I need Yamabond 4 or 5 for reassembly?
 
Black Bear,
You are more than welcome for the info. I have bought several yami clutch pullers and they all appear to be the same exact one, just in different packages. It seems I can pull 25-30 clutches before I need to buy a new one. The cheap ones will be just fine for your couple of projects. Hopefully you dont have a comet clutch on the sleds you need to replace the seals. Three out of every five comets I've tried to pull off exciters, ended up getting cut off.
The three bolt small engine flywheel puller is a universal deal. You should be able to find one easily. I used a Craftsman harmonic balancer puller for a long time. You need to becarefull when using this type of puller because you can bend the flywheel out of shape if it is stuck on the crank good.
You are correct on the Impact driver. I have a Husky I bought from Home Rip Off (Depot) and have done many stators and 80's Arctic Cat eltigre water pump housings with it and it still works!!
You shouldn't need heat on the stator screws. Just be sure to have your driver bit squarely on the screws and give the impact a good whack.
For sealant, Yamabond4, ThreeBond1194, or Permatex Anerobic sealer are all acceptable. There may be other brands out there, but these are the ones I have used. I dont remember what the price of yamabond is but the 1194 is around $10 a tube and the Permatex is around $15-$20 a tube. I like using the 1194 because it is grey in color like yamabond4 but less expensive. It also matches the color of the engine and you dont see the seam like you would with the permatex. Not that it really matters, Im just a little OCD sometimes.
There ya go Black Bear, Have at 'er!! ;)!
 
Throttle Junkie,


No problems with splitting the case. What do I need to be careful of on reassembly? Do I need to be careful of the alignment it mentions in the manual about alignment of the circlip? My cir-clip will spin 360 degrees. Maybe I am missing the knock pin? It also mentions punch marks?
 
Black Bear said:
Throttle Junkie,


No problems with splitting the case. What do I need to be careful of on reassembly? Do I need to be careful of the alignment it mentions in the manual about alignment of the circlip? My cir-clip will spin 360 degrees. Maybe I am missing the knock pin? It also mentions punch marks?
Click to expand...

Never mind my questions I was not looking close enough.
 
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