2000 SXR600 smokey? stalls after warming up, needs full throttle to start.

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MIice

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Jul 18, 2014
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Michigan
I have a 2000 Yamaha SXR600 with 4200 miles. Last week I soaked the carbs in snake ... I mean sea foam, for about 3 days. I put everything back together and there was no change. I run ethanol free gas, however I do know this thing sat with ethanol gas in it last summer. The sled will only start up with the throttle wide open (with choke on full or half). I think that this sled smokes a lot once she starts but I don't really know. The video below is in a closed garage, so keep that in mind. Once she starts she runs well, until the sled gets warm, then it just falls on it's face. It will only fall on it's face once I turn the choke completely off, and it takes about 30 seconds for it to die after I turn the choke off.

So the question is: Is the sled not getting enough air, or too much oil?

I have checked the oil metering cable and it is at 22mm.

Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyl5kHf6XoQ&feature=youtu.be
at 1:15 I take the choke off.
any adjusting in the engine area is just for throttle.

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
MIice said:
I have a 2000 Yamaha SXR600 with 4200 miles. Last week I soaked the carbs in snake ... I mean sea foam, for about 3 days. I put everything back together and there was no change. I run ethanol free gas, however I do know this thing sat with ethanol gas in it last summer. The sled will only start up with the throttle wide open (with choke on full or half). I think that this sled smokes a lot once she starts but I don't really know. The video below is in a closed garage, so keep that in mind. Once she starts she runs well, until the sled gets warm, then it just falls on it's face. It will only fall on it's face once I turn the choke completely off, and it takes about 30 seconds for it to die after I turn the choke off.

So the question is: Is the sled not getting enough air, or too much oil?

I have checked the oil metering cable and it is at 22mm.

Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyl5kHf6XoQ&feature=youtu.be
at 1:15 I take the choke off.
any adjusting in the engine area is just for throttle.

Thanks in advance for any help!
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I am in no way a professional when it comes to carbs, but just soaking the carbs in sea foam will not fix them. You need to remove the bowls on each carb and then remove the main jets and pilot jets and make sure you can see day light through them. I prefer using 16 gauge copper stranded wire and break off 1 strand and run it through all of the jets. I also suggest using compressed air in all of the fuel passages once you have the jets out. Lastly I would remove your need and seat that operate the floats and make sure they are moving up and down smoothly.

A sled sitting in a warm garage should not be that cold blooded. Also full choke plus full throttle accomplishes nothing. Pick one or the other.

Judging by your video I would think that the floats are sticking and your carb bowls aren't filling fast enough and that's why it dies after runnning for a moment, but then after full choke and a fuel pulls to prime the fuel again it starts. and repeats the cycle.

I hope this helps. I am not trying to be derogatory just point you in the right direction.

Good Luck
 
X2 ^^^. Sounds like the carbs are dirty, pilots for sure (runs worse without choke). You must take them apart and clean every passage. Here is a link to help you with that http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmob...Carb Cleaning/Carb cleaning 101 with pics.htm. http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/carbs/cleaning_carbs.htm I see this is your first post so welcome to the site and ask as many questions as needed. As far as smoking it will smoke like a chimney this time of year anyway, running rich with temps. Where are you at in Michigan?? Lots of guys on here are from michigan and always willing to lend a hand. Chris
 
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I would agree with the other 2. Need to blow out the carbs. Also you said it sat for a while with ethanol gas in the tank. I would clean that out the best you can and check the pick up filter if it has one. I use ethanol shield in all my sleds. IMO best stuff out there. If interested look it up on youtube.
 
First thanks for all the advise.
Meistern13 said:
Also full choke plus full throttle accomplishes nothing. Pick one or the other.
Click to expand...

Second, I feel the same way but I SWEAR it's the only way to start the sled.

I guess I have some carb cleaning to do. I thought there might be a chance that whatever pump mixes the oil/gas could have failed. But I guess a good carb cleaning is first. I have had great success just soaking them previously. But then again I was never with 2 stroke carbs.

I will post results, and I will hit them with compressed air, once dismantled.

Some one asked my location. I'm in Owosso and a massively addicted to ice fishing. But I move to Dallas in March, so I'm just trying to get the sled running, so I can sell it at the start of winter.

Again thanks for all the help!!!!!!
 
Seafoam in the fuel "may" dissolve the gunked fuel that may be plugging your primary idle passages. If the the idle or main fuel circuit passages are blocked or partially blocked, they will not deliver enough fuel at idle, thus choking will provide more vacuum at idle and draw fuel from the main fuel circuit(but that will give a rough idle and as it warms up it will die from rich mixture and poor idle fuel metering) As stated in several posts above.

If you are lucky, you can avoid a carb rebuild by running seafoam in the fuel and clearing the gunk out of the idle passages. I mix about 2-3oz per gallon for this purpose. I have fixed many carbs, snowmobiles, tractors, lawn mowers, tillers, scooters, cycles, etc.. using this method. But, sometimes, you have to run it to get the seafoam mix fuel in the carb passages, let it sit, repeat, until the Seafoam does it's job. If it's heavily gunked it may not clear and you may need to pull the carbs and soak them in a carb cleaner overnight and blow the idle/main circuits out with compressed air and check to make sure they are clear (air coming out the veturi/throat of carb). I have had found particles blocking the fuel passages that seafoam will not dissolve, hopefully that is not your issue. Compressed air may removed particles lodged, or fine wire (be very careful) may be needed to purge the particles. Sometimes tinkerers will play with the jets and overtighten and loosen shavings of metal from the jets and they can get lodged in the fuel passages. With a dual/triple carb setup, it would be unlikely that a particle would be in all carbs, so you'd likely be able to idle without choking if one carb was plugged, but it would be rough.

Most likely you will be able to clear the gunk by using a heavy seafoam fuel mix and repeat running/sitting overnight. Sometimes it takes 3-4 times to clear. If not, soak in cleaner. (follow instructions on carb soak so you don't damage the finish that protects the outside of the carb). And when I say carb cleaner, it's the "soak" cleaner(usually gallon cans at auto parts shops), not the spray cleaner.

Good luck and post with your results.
 
Rebmo said:
If the the idle or main fuel circuit passages are blocked or partially blocked, they will not deliver enough fuel at idle, thus choking will provide more vacuum at idle and draw fuel from the main fuel circuit
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That makes since.. thanks!
 
X4 or 5 on clean them carbs....the old fashioned way! Cleaner in a can may be fine for keeping them clean BUT being as you have never had them apart you need to tear em down. Print off your favorite "how to" write up to refer to while doing them. Look at the spec page and see what should be in there and where (staggered jetting) Never know what the last guy did.....lean burn downs are NO FUN! For what its worth though I think you have an 01 because of the silver tunnel/trailing arms, 00 should have had blue tunnel/trailing arms.
 
Dirty pilots, dirty pilots, and more dirty pilots is all it was! Thanks again for all the help guys! She fires right up on half a pull EVERY time. I adjusted the fuel screws to exactly 2 turns, but before I pulled them out I just checked how far it was till lightly seated. Each carb was 1-3/4 instead of 2. Any ideas why?

Now more importantly how much can I sell a 2001 SXR600 (bone stock) with 4,2XX miles? She has a bent (but welded and reinforced) front ski arm, and a ding on running board. I'm moving to Dallas in March, so I'm not going to have much use for it!
 
look around your area for similar sleds and see how much they run for. Look at there conditions and judge from there.
 
MIice said:
Dirty pilots, dirty pilots, and more dirty pilots is all it was! Thanks again for all the help guys! She fires right up on half a pull EVERY time. I adjusted the fuel screws to exactly 2 turns, but before I pulled them out I just checked how far it was till lightly seated. Each carb was 1-3/4 instead of 2. Any ideas why?

Now more importantly how much can I sell a 2001 SXR600 (bone stock) with 4,2XX miles? She has a bent (but welded and reinforced) front ski arm, and a ding on running board. I'm moving to Dallas in March, so I'm not going to have much use for it!
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It depends on what time of year you put it up for sale, fall into early winter is best. I sold a 2000 sxr 600 in late feb and got $1200, it had hauck pipes and clutching, no dings but the seat wasn't perfect, had around 5500 miles.
 
shaggyzr2 said:
It depends on what time of year you put it up for sale, fall into early winter is best. I sold a 2000 sxr 600 in late feb and got $1200, it had hauck pipes and clutching, no dings but the seat wasn't perfect, had around 5500 miles.
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Excellent, yah that is when I plan to sell it, so I can get the most $! I was thinking in the 1100 range. Thanks!
 
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