Keeping the old redheads alive!

I've done nothing with jetting or carbs. It's all stock just a snostuff can. I'll try getting a new cap then.
 

Or a hole in the cooler or lines. Either way.. Under the back of the seat theres a little bleeding screw for the rear exchanger. Crack it open till you see theres no air left in the lines and start your testing over.
 
I don't believe yours has heatted carbs. Looks to be an older model. If so, check the lines from the head to the switch, carbs, and tip of the water pump. If they're damaged this would cause it to suck air. Especially during shut down. I have a 2000 frame mm with a 98 600 triple with 35000+ miles on her and this has happened to me. When you bleed the cooling system, make sure to raise the inlet where the cap goes above the bleed hole. Close it when the coolant comes out. These engines are finicky if they're not water tight.
 
I don't believe yours has heatted carbs. Looks to be an older model. If so, check the lines from the head to the switch, carbs, and tip of the water pump. If they're damaged this would cause it to suck air. Especially during shut down. I have a 2000 frame mm with a 98 600 triple with 35000+ miles on her and this has happened to me. When you bleed the cooling system, make sure to raise the inlet where the cap goes above the bleed hole. Close it when the coolant comes out. These engines are finicky if they're not water tight.


His is a 97 so no heated carbs
 
I don't believe yours has heatted carbs. Looks to be an older model. If so, check the lines from the head to the switch, carbs, and tip of the water pump. If they're damaged this would cause it to suck air. Especially during shut down. I have a 2000 frame mm with a 98 600 triple with 35000+ miles on her and this has happened to me. When you bleed the cooling system, make sure to raise the inlet where the cap goes above the bleed hole. Close it when the coolant comes out. These engines are finicky if they're not water tight.

Yea '97 so no heated carbs. And 35,000 mi??! I've only bled the system by raising the rear and tilting on its side also. I'm hoping it's not another head gasket or that the gear on the crank isn't turning the water pump when hot anymore. It's also a warm summer now here in WI but the sled shouldn't overheat just sitting and running on a stand...
 
This is probably why its overheating again now, I found just now that coolant's leaking quite fast from the bottom of the water pump... I just put a new gasket on it along with a newer impellar and everything.
 


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