Advice removing wheels rear pivot Arm sx700r 2001

Rebmo

Rebmo

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Joined
Jan 11, 2014
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68
Location
Rural SE Wisconsin
I have the suspension out and have replaced all the wheels and bearings/bushings that were in need of attention. I was able to press out all the axle/wheels without any issues. I noticed that extra grease fittings had been added by the PO who really took care of this sled that I aquired 4 years back.

I replaced the slides and greased all the bushings and greased all the zerks. The only remaining area I now noticed needing attention are the plastic shim/seals (broken) on each end of the wheels on the control arms. I notice the plastic pushing out in pieces when I was greasing the rear pivot arm zerk. So I started to look over what it would take to replace these plastic bushings and am not sure my press can handle removing the wheels? With the control rods and rear pivot arm all attached I need some advice on how to press the wheels off. What is also strange is that there are no C-clips retaining these wheels?

Any advice on how to press these wheels off would be greatly appreciated. Maybe I need to take the rear pivot arm assembly in to a shop with a bigger press or can I build a 2x4 or 2x8 frame under my press cylinder, or?? I can't see a way to get the assembly under the press to get the wheels off? Plenty of grease in there now, but as long as the skid's out I'd like to replace the plastic bushings, appreciate some help from those that have done this.

TIA Reb
 
Just put a 2x4 over the end of the shaft and give it a few good wacks with a sledge hammer. This is how ive always done mine with no issues. It will take a bit the first time.
 
Thanks Super1c, do you pound out the shaft with the pivot arm attached to the suspension or do you pull it and support the wheel? How about getting the weel back on? Thanks, Sorry first time through this and really appreciate the voice of experience.
 
Thanks Super1c, That was painless except when I hit my hand with the mini sledge. I'm always a little leary of pounding bushings/wheels out, but as easy as those wheels came off it's not an issue and really appreciate the adivce. I'm glad I took it apart for rebushing. The old grease was really gunked in the shaft so all the old is now out soon to be replaced by new. One plastic bushing was really deteriorated as I could see, and the other was fine. I'll replace them both as long as it's apart. My son & I are doing this together and it's going to be his sled this year so we're both learning. Once the bushings come and it's back together it's on to the fun part putting the suspension back in. Thanks again for the help keeping this newbie suspension refresh moving before the snow flies.

Reb
 
I've put them on certain sleds with a pipe. Have it mate up with the outer race of the bearing so that no damage occurs with the bearing or seal. Any newly applied grease is definately better than the old shtuff. I try to use the low temp stuff. But it's not always readily available. I was lucky enough to find plenty of this stuff at the Oreillys in Prarie Du Chein
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.ore...ap?ck=Search_N0412_-1_1379&pt=N0412&ppt=C0139
 
Rebmo said:
Thanks Super1c, That was painless except when I hit my hand with the mini sledge. I'm always a little leary of pounding bushings/wheels out, but as easy as those wheels came off it's not an issue and really appreciate the adivce. I'm glad I took it apart for rebushing. The old grease was really gunked in the shaft so all the old is now out soon to be replaced by new. One plastic bushing was really deteriorated as I could see, and the other was fine. I'll replace them both as long as it's apart. My son & I are doing this together and it's going to be his sled this year so we're both learning. Once the bushings come and it's back together it's on to the fun part putting the suspension back in. Thanks again for the help keeping this newbie suspension refresh moving before the snow flies.

Reb
Click to expand...

Ouch! And I say that with personal experience. Haha! Glad it came off and nice to see ya working with your son. I've done a few projects with my daughter and loved every minute of it. Plus it gives then a sense of ownership, just not GIven to them. Keep up the good work!
 
Thanks "couple of bucks", Ordered the bushings today so hope they arrive by next weekend so we can get the suspension wrapped up and installed back in the skid. I should be able to press one wheel on the shaft, and I will find a socket that won't damage the race for the other side. I should have enough low temp grease to fill the shaft housing but need some more so thanks for the link. That's a decent price for low temp. I suspect some of the gunked up grease I removed throughout the skid was not low temp possibly added by the PO.

I'll update on the fun I have putting the suspension back in,

Thanks again, Reb

A couple of bucks said:
I've put them on certain sleds with a pipe. Have it mate up with the outer race of the bearing so that no damage occurs with the bearing or seal. Any newly applied grease is definately better than the old shtuff. I try to use the low temp stuff. But it's not always readily available. I was lucky enough to find plenty of this stuff at the Oreillys in Prarie Du Chein
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.ore...ap?ck=Search_N0412_-1_1379&pt=N0412&ppt=C0139
Click to expand...
 
OK, bushings in and the rear pivot arm is all back together and the suspension is complete. Oh yeah, pumped some grease in and it sure goes in easy when the shaft and pivot are cleaned out. I suspect the entire suspension should be much more effective now that all that fresh grease is in it. Now for the suspension install into the track/skid. I hear that's a real challenge, so just in case you have any suggestions on getting it back in would appreciate it. I'm hearing that you start bolting in working from front to back.

Thanks all, Reb
 
Took the idler wheels off mine today. The board trick did not work at all but I found a new way to split wood. I ended up taking the snap ring off. Then got the idler wheel off. Stuck the bolt back in on the shaft so I don't damage the treads. I used a 3 jaw puller to get the bearing off. Hoping the wheels go on easier then they came off. I am also going to put in new idler bearings in since it is apart. This is the first time I had the skid out. Did it to long travel the rear of this sled. 97 sx 700. Found some bad bearing in the idler wheels. To reinstall I am thinking. front bolts 1st rear bolts 2nd middle bolts 3rd. Loosen up the transfer rods to get the middles hole to line up.
 
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My son & I reinstalled the suspension today and it went in pretty easy with all the suggestions from here. Thanks everyone. We put (4) 3/4" X 1" pine pieces about 25" long in the back of the track slots and the rear wheels slid right in and pulled the boards out (great suggestion from somewhere on this site). We had a back end bumper jack holding up the sled and attached to the rear bumper. The front holes lined up good when I pried up on a 2x4. I put a floor jack under the track and jacked it up and pulled and pushed the sled to get the rear holes to line up. We loosened the pivot arm rod bolts almost all the way out and the mid lined up pretty easy. She's all back together and my son was a great assistant and a big help!. Tomorrow we are going to set the rear wheel tension and align the track. Then we are going to set the front shock tension to the mid position and adjust the wheels for my son's weight. We installed the visor heater rca jack on my new viper this week so we are getting close to ready for the snow. My son will be taking the WI snowmobile safety course this year and will be riding solo on the sxr700 so he's pretty excited. Hope your readiness projects are going well,

Thanks for all the great suggestions,

Reb
 
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He's 12.5 and responsible, good grades, and helpful, so it's a reward and some fun.

We snugged up the track and aligned it, and set the front shock medium/light. I snugged up the control rods with him on it but it didn't really respond to his 85lbs.. Any suggestions for adjusting the rods spacer clearance for lighter weights?
 
Thanks, my bad, I set the FRA(not the shock) to the bump before the upper position (med/soft). Thanks for the great links, I'll run through them and get it setup.

Reb


mes882 said:
What about setting FRA (full rate adjuster) to upper position. It will make the rear spring seem softer. Would be a good starting point. Then adjust the pre load on the springs from there.
Here is some good info on setting up your suspension.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/printthread.php?t=34503
Proaction tuning video good info here too.
http://vimeo.com/20218037
Click to expand...
 
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