1987 exciter 570 drive bearings??????????

pete72

pete72

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Joined
Nov 20, 2014
Messages
267
Location
upstate ny, greenfield center
hey guys. im gonna be installing a new / old track i bought on ebay and would like to order bearings for the drive. for the life of me i can't find on ebay. everything is for 1990 and newer. anyone have bearing numbers or a kit listing i missed on ebay?????? i need parts for a 1987 exciter 570 L/C
 
Go to your local bearing house and get a 60/22DU I believe that is a Koyo or NSK number. They will be able to help you out for about $20 Btw, 87-93 use the same drive bearing. You most likely wont have to change the chain case bearing as those usually are in pretty good shape.
 
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Good luck getting the front axle / cog assembly off. The allen set screws and collars are probably seized to the axle. Try not to melt the plastic wheels when you hitting them with the torch.
 
grasshopper said:
Good luck getting the front axle / cog assembly off. The allen set screws and collars are probably seized to the axle. Try not to melt the plastic wheels when you hitting them with the torch.
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wow!!!!!!!!!!! can't say I'd be surprised on the rusty bucket of bolts! everything about this hunk of junk has been disappointing since it showed up here. the last nightmare was drilling out the front aluminum shaft. all 16 inches no mind you! i'd like to meet the silly bastard that thought it was a good idea to use it.i've made my own replacement out of steel so this will never be an issue again. on another note it can only get better with every dollar i spend on it :>) everything being fixed will pay off when im not walking home from the trail!!!!!!! i hope anyways
 
When I get to the hex collars, I spend 5 minutes total on them after soaking them down for a day or two (if time permits), then I give up and drill the set screws out. I try to save the collars if I can because they are about 15 bux a piece. After I clean them up, I use stainless set screws when I re-install them. Cobalt drill bits rock!
 
Throttle Junkie35 said:
When I get to the hex collars, I spend 5 minutes total on them after soaking them down for a day or two (if time permits), then I give up and drill the set screws out. I try to save the collars if I can because they are about 15 bux a piece. After I clean them up, I use stainless set screws when I re-install them. Cobalt drill bits rock!
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thanks for the tips throttle junkie35. that was my thought too with a drill but she's gets sprayed with lube every day and i still have a few to go. replacement track is 5 or 6 days out so maybe they will break free by then. little heat does wonders too.>)
 
well finally got the set screws out on the right hand side of the drive and slide over. removed the bearing housing and bearing on the pto side and opened up the chaincase and removed bottom gear etc. now it seems i have to remove the whole damn chaincase to get the shaft out >( wasn't counting on having to do that. this exciter is nothin like the 94 v-max i had about 10 years ago. i t wasn't necessary to remove the case as there was enough room to get the shaft out. am i missing something?????? why in the world would they put something together like this????? i just don't get it >(
 
Throttle Junkie35 said:
Yep, you need to remove the chain case. Keep telling yourself "this is fun". lol
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im trying! ha ha ha. finally got everything apart. collars were a bear. colbalt drill wouldn't touch these set screws. ended up using a spot weld cutter i had on hand. could only drill so deep because there only for sheet metal but i had a ball die grinding bit and ground the middle of the set screw down as i went till i had a plug removed. still had to use a pickle fork to slide the collars back. pain it was but i plug welded the drilled holes and drilled and taped for new set screws. tomorrow 12/8 i should have my new used track i picked up of ebay for 77.00 and a new shaft seal for the chaincase side of the drive. glad i bought the bearing for the case as she's a bit rougher then i like. this should be a half decent sled when shes back together.
 
Take the outer 2 idlers off the drive axle they are not needed plus now the axle will come out very easy .... I have been runningy 88 ex with just the 2 drivers for years with no issues and that is with a full mod 140 hp 600 vmax motor
 
Yamaha Nutz said:
Take the outer 2 idlers off the drive axle they are not needed plus now the axle will come out very easy .... I have been runningy 88 ex with just the 2 drivers for years with no issues and that is with a full mod 140 hp 600 vmax motor
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too late to do that!!!!!! the drive and track are already in the hole!!!! will throw the rebuilt skid back in later today and see if the bucket of old bolts will run. it was very badly flooded in the crankcase because of carb issues so the plugs and exhaust have been open to the air and a few cranks over daily for the past 2 weeks plus rebuilt pump so really hoping this thing lights off with no surprises. we shall see. to be continued......
 
Yamaha Nutz said:
Take the outer 2 idlers off the drive axle they are not needed plus now the axle will come out very easy .... I have been runningy 88 ex with just the 2 drivers for years with no issues and that is with a full mod 140 hp 600 vmax motor
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The outer wheels really aren't needed? If so that makes my life a lot easier because I melted one of the wheels with the torch.
 
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