pls93
New member
Yeah no kidding, I finally found about 6" last weekend for my first ride on the new sleds. Hoping to get more soon.
Backwoods M Max
New member
I'm not sure which adjusters a short track sled had but the mountain skid adjusts completely different.
To adjust tension on a mountain skid:
Back off axle nut so axle can slide
Adjust slack adjusters through track windows behind axle
After adjusting tension and alignment tighten axle nut
They are clockwise to tighten and if the track is down the middle now do the adjusters evenly. 1/2 turn at a time is more than enough between checking.
To adjust tension on a mountain skid:
Back off axle nut so axle can slide
Adjust slack adjusters through track windows behind axle
After adjusting tension and alignment tighten axle nut
They are clockwise to tighten and if the track is down the middle now do the adjusters evenly. 1/2 turn at a time is more than enough between checking.
mod-it
Member
RPM changes are made by increasing/decreasing the weight in the primary arms/weights. There are different weight rivets that can be placed in the arms to achieve what is needed. WOT rpm adjustment is usually made by changing weight in the outer arm hole. Reduce WOT RPM by adding weight, increase WOT RPM by reducing weight. The stock springs work fine in mine, which is a g-w-g primary and green secondary. The stock helix also will work, which is a 45°, but I like a 47° helix so that it takes a little less weight in the primary arms and gives me a nice backshift. I'm also using the stock arms in the primary, which are 8dn-10's.
I have SLP flo-rites in the dash, so my weight setup won't be the same as yours. If I remember right I'm running 3.6gram rivets in both the inner and outer holes.
There are too many variables for any kit to get you "spot on", but they can get you close if you go that route, but you'll still more than likely end up needing to do some fine tuning on the weights to get your RPM dialed in to the sweet spot.
I have SLP flo-rites in the dash, so my weight setup won't be the same as yours. If I remember right I'm running 3.6gram rivets in both the inner and outer holes.
There are too many variables for any kit to get you "spot on", but they can get you close if you go that route, but you'll still more than likely end up needing to do some fine tuning on the weights to get your RPM dialed in to the sweet spot.
pls93
New member
Per SLP
primary: needs 13.3mm rivet inner hole, no rivet outer hole, stock clutch spring
Secondary: 43 degree cam, Green 80 degree preload setting 2-6 for the spring.
Below is the PDF from SLP, last page for clutch and I ride at 6500'
http://www.slp.cc/instsheets/09-746.pdf
primary: needs 13.3mm rivet inner hole, no rivet outer hole, stock clutch spring
Secondary: 43 degree cam, Green 80 degree preload setting 2-6 for the spring.
Below is the PDF from SLP, last page for clutch and I ride at 6500'
http://www.slp.cc/instsheets/09-746.pdf
pls93
New member
Oh one more question. I know these are older sleds but does anyone know of an aftermarket company that still make saddle bags for these? I can't find them anywhere.
thanks
thanks
mod-it
Member
Yea...that setup had me turning about 9200 rpm at WOT. That was with a 43° helix at 6100'. It jumped again when I added the flo-rites...which I highly recommend to get rid of the powder bog, BTW. Block all underhood air access to the airbox and let it only take cold air from flo-rites in the dash. In your pic it looks like the SLP's you have are dipped, that helps. AKMntviper had dipped pipes on his and didn't have the bog, so maybe you'll be ok. If it does, then check out the sticky at the top of this forum titled "FAQ...", then "The infamous powder bog". The second to last page shows pics of what I did to finally cure it on my sled. You've bought a very dependable sled, I've had mine since new and have only had to put a stator on it...no other issues.
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