Viper clutching help

J

jaydougempire

Guest
I'm looking for some clutching ideas. Looking for starting points for my viper. It's a 136 proaction w/8 tooth and 1 1/4" lug. I'm running slp pipes and v force reeds. I have all the stock parts...as well I have a set of 8bf-00 weights and a max perf Orange spring. Would the 8ek weights be better for lake and trail? Maybe I could find a better weight and spring set up. It's got 14.5 mm rollers and not sure what the helix is gotta press the bushing out yet and check. I've been thinking a lot about a HC setup but wondered if there's a more affordable route that would still make a good ripper.
 

Do you think I could just try changing from the 8bf to 8ca and matching weight? Or maybe better to put the 8ek in it for lake and trail. I'm mainly trying to decide on which weight to use.
 
1.) what kind of actual riding do you do 90% of the time?
2.) did you change the gears also or still have 22/38 with the 8 tooth drivers?
3.) what all helixs do you own?

what do you want the sled to do?
 
I ride lakes and trails. In a perfect world I would have a bad *** trail ripper that could do 130 on the lake haha. I ride really aggressive. Thinking about getting into some drag racing...Anyway something good in the trail and maybe get a little top end back. I did betheviper skid setup and But I still have some fine tuning to do. The track spins a lot. My gears are 24/38. I have a stock 8bv51 and I have a max perf 7vp2 it's their old viper helix but I can't find the measurements. I'm going to press the bushing out today and see if it's in the bore.
 
you have a 136 track with a 1.25 inch lug, 8 tooth drivers, your not going to have big topend on the lake unless you remove that....

"ride lakes and trails" doesnt tell me anything specific, so is it that you ride mostly wide open across the lakes and big groomed trails where theres nothing but big sweeper turns and mid to wide open throttle almost always??

then you have "want to drag race" in there, well thats opposite of lake riding.........thats short distance running.....

do you understand from my point your not providing the information to try and set somebody up with a REALISTIC set up that will work because your wanting everything in 1,............ well, frankly, it doesnt exist! I dont mean to sound harsh its just that people ask all the time for the impossible with clutching, you cant have it all in 1 set up. Your already current set up of the sleds suspension, track and gearing is opposite of what your asking for, so thats where the dilema begins..

so... maybe we will have to approach it this way then.

1.)if you use 8ca weights, its gonna be a short distance set up(more drag race) meaning it will accelerate fast but wont have any guts after about 80mph or so. backshifting is not very well for on and off throttle type riding.

2.)the stock 8ek weights are decent all around but wont accel as fast as 8ca will or give you blistering topend lake running mph either, they are good for basic trail riding with tight turns,medium stretchs of wide open and somewhat decent backshift when on and off the gas riding.

3.)the 8bf weights are about the same as 8ek weights..... the 8ek is a little more aggressive at beginning but not alot. ok backshifting, not a aggressive weight by any means.

so which do you want from that list then?

with slp pipes you need to turn 8900-9000rpm, so your gonna need differnt springs, most likely can use that maxx helix if you find out the angles and I would suggest you get a set of 15mm or 15.6mm rollers for a better use. The stock viper 14.5mm will lower your engagement speed and your shift rpm. You already have the extra load of the 136 bigger lug track on the sled with 24/38 and 8 tooth drivers your actually geared at a 1.79 ratio, which is steeper then stock so your not gonna have bigger topend speed by far.

(thats basicly what you have to work with, I would tend to observe from your sleds current set up this far and parts list your looking at a more short distance set up, its gonna be "quick" in a short run like 500-750ft long but not "fast" or more higher mph on the lake crossing.)

quick = short time to get from point a to point b, not high mph just short time.
fast= more mph over a bigger distance to get from point a to point b.
 
i can work with ya on a 8ca setup. drop me pm if ya like. put like posted above, their a very aggressive clutch weight. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
Alright thanks fellas I'll be in touch tony thanks again
 
mrviper700 said:
you have a 136 track with a 1.25 inch lug, 8 tooth drivers, your not going to have big topend on the lake unless you remove that....

"ride lakes and trails" doesnt tell me anything specific, so is it that you ride mostly wide open across the lakes and big groomed trails where theres nothing but big sweeper turns and mid to wide open throttle almost always??

then you have "want to drag race" in there, well thats opposite of lake riding.........thats short distance running.....

do you understand from my point your not providing the information to try and set somebody up with a REALISTIC set up that will work because your wanting everything in 1,............ well, frankly, it doesnt exist! I dont mean to sound harsh its just that people ask all the time for the impossible with clutching, you cant have it all in 1 set up. Your already current set up of the sleds suspension, track and gearing is opposite of what your asking for, so thats where the dilema begins..

so... maybe we will have to approach it this way then.

1.)if you use 8ca weights, its gonna be a short distance set up(more drag race) meaning it will accelerate fast but wont have any guts after about 80mph or so. backshifting is not very well for on and off throttle type riding.

2.)the stock 8ek weights are decent all around but wont accel as fast as 8ca will or give you blistering topend lake running mph either, they are good for basic trail riding with tight turns,medium stretchs of wide open and somewhat decent backshift when on and off the gas riding.

3.)the 8bf weights are about the same as 8ek weights..... the 8ek is a little more aggressive at beginning but not alot. ok backshifting, not a aggressive weight by any means.

so which do you want from that list then?

with slp pipes you need to turn 8900-9000rpm, so your gonna need differnt springs, most likely can use that maxx helix if you find out the angles and I would suggest you get a set of 15mm or 15.6mm rollers for a better use. The stock viper 14.5mm will lower your engagement speed and your shift rpm. You already have the extra load of the 136 bigger lug track on the sled with 24/38 and 8 tooth drivers your actually geared at a 1.79 ratio, which is steeper then stock so your not gonna have bigger topend speed by far.

(thats basicly what you have to work with, I would tend to observe from your sleds current set up this far and parts list your looking at a more short distance set up, its gonna be "quick" in a short run like 500-750ft long but not "fast" or more higher mph on the lake crossing.)

quick = short time to get from point a to point b, not high mph just short time.
fast= more mph over a bigger distance to get from point a to point b.
Click to expand...

Mr viper
I'm thinking of two setups...here's my thoughts
Switch to 9 tooth and trim track to 1 inch lug possibly re-gear...I rarely get in the deep stuff...as for a trail setup do you think the 8ek weights are better corner to corner "so to speak" than the 8bf? Im thinking of setting up a second clutch for like 660ft or something possibly using the 8ca setup for ice drags possibly grass...if possible. Thanks for your input.
 
little info on the 7VP2. it was part of maxx perf slp pipe clutch kit. recommended setup: 8EK weights 3.6g (inner) 3.1(outer), primary spring MAXX red, sec spring green, 70*
my viper was setup very similar to yours. i did some testing with this helix. i couldnt get it to run well.
 
taped throttle said:
little info on the 7VP2. it was part of maxx perf slp pipe clutch kit. recommended setup: 8EK weights 3.6g (inner) 3.1(outer), primary spring MAXX red, sec spring green, 70*
my viper was setup very similar to yours. i did some testing with this helix. i couldnt get it to run well.
Click to expand...

It measured 40/32 which to me seems really shallow. I'm looking for something closer to 50/40
 
8ek weights, 4.5mid ,4.5 tip, yamaha w/w/w/ with 15.6mm rollers, 50/44 helix with green at 70 shoot for 9000rpm with your slp pipes.
 
mrviper700 said:
8ek weights, 4.5mid ,4.5 tip, yamaha w/w/w/ with 15.6mm rollers, 50/44 helix with green at 70 shoot for 9000rpm with your slp pipes.
Click to expand...

Awesome mrviper thanks a lot I'll repost when we get some snow
 
mrviper700 said:
8ek weights, 4.5mid ,4.5 tip, yamaha w/w/w/ with 15.6mm rollers, 50/44 helix with green at 70 shoot for 9000rpm with your slp pipes.
Click to expand...

Do you think a 50/42 dalton would work? Or a 51/43 maybe?
 
you start going smaller and smaller on the finish angle and its gonna over rev on topend and you wont be able to add more tip weight to get it back to 9000 as you already will have a 4.5 in the tip, so.... no, i would stay with a 50/44.
 
mrviper700 said:
you start going smaller and smaller on the finish angle and its gonna over rev on topend and you wont be able to add more tip weight to get it back to 9000 as you already will have a 4.5 in the tip, so.... no, i would stay with a 50/44.
Click to expand...

Ok 10/4
 
mrviper700 said:
you start going smaller and smaller on the finish angle and its gonna over rev on topend and you wont be able to add more tip weight to get it back to 9000 as you already will have a 4.5 in the tip, so.... no, i would stay with a 50/44.
Click to expand...

just to clarify...yamaha 17.2mm weights are the 4.5g correct? so i beleive the stock 8ek should have a 4.5 already in the tip ... also, im having a hard time finding a used 50/44. you wouldnt have one for sale? or maybe have a line on one?
 
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