How to not screw up changing head gaskets??

Is it the same one that keeps leaking, have any of the jugs been replaced with remans? Got a reman back once that was .009" shorter than stock so head would not tighten properly on that cylinder. Put a straight edge across the top of the engine to check.
 

01sxr700 said:
Is it the same one that keeps leaking, have any of the jugs been replaced with remans? Got a reman back once that was .009" shorter than stock so head would not tighten properly on that cylinder. Put a straight edge across the top of the engine to check.
Click to expand...

I'm not totally sure if the motor has ever been apart ever. I bought the sled years back with just under 10k miles and ran well. It began overheating last season. I pulled the head and found the one gasket was "washed" so I replaced it. I also took the waterpump cover off an replaced the impeller. Thought I fixed it but started to overheat again so I took it in. Turns out the heat exchanger has a crack, my front exchanger is loose! and the old gaskets are bad and leaking, and the water pump was leaking because the mechanical seal has to be put I correctly with a new one. I didn't know this... They fixed the waterpump but I couldn't afford more so I have to do the rest myself. I already pulled the left exchanger and have to pick one up for $50 and rivet on and have yet to hopefully correctly do all gaskets which are crazy expensive!! Ugh /of rant.
 
zook said:
Sorry to hear about your problems but at least get the sled off of it's side. Hate to see it like that. I would do what ever one has said about the head gaskets. I just did a top end on mine and got all the info off the tech pages. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

It should be off its side sometime this season. Maybe ill even be able to actually ride this snowmobile for once. Is that what they are supposed to be used for?? I can't remember... Did you use copper spray on the gaskets?
 
i threw used ones on mine and only used a single layer,lightly put a couple coats of copper on,let it dry then sprayed em with permatex adhesive,been holding up fine
 
mrviper700 said:
spray the head surface and the tops of the cylinders off with brake clean to remove oil and antifreeze, blow dry with compressed air.

on the headgaskets, clean those as well with brake clean, wipe dry. When you use the copper kote spray you just want to dust them not paint them with a thick layer, just dust them in light coats to cover the surface, let dry overnight and flip them over and repeat, let dry well before installing them and then torq it all down like posted. dont touch the surface with your fingers, hold them via the tabs on the ends.

never had any leak problems this way.
Click to expand...

This look good? one coat both sides so far
GOPR0044[1].jpg
 
Got the dried gaskets on (i think the right way) and the head is back on. gotta torque it down correctly and add coolant and see how it runs...
IMG_6779.jpgIMG_6782.jpgIMG_6783.jpgIMG_6784.jpgIMG_6785.jpg
 
:whine:Well I did the two step 8ft/lbs then 17-18ft/lbs filled it with coolant and pulled it over a few times before starting it to get everything moving. I pulled it about 3 times and it started really well. As it got warm I opened the cap and looked in and added some more coolant as it ran. The coolant level at the cap would rise and fall very consistantly. I let it run and got that #$%&*#$%&* red light AGAIN! Its far too familiar of a sight for me and this stupid sled. Im at a loss from how angry I am. Ive put noting but time and money into it to have it do the same exact thing! replaced the left heat exchanger! All new headgaskets again! Had the water pump redone! Some one help me please, because I'm sick of dealing with it. I havnt ridden it at all for like 2 years now because Ive been battling this. :o| :whine:
 
I added more coolant and was able to ride it for about 20 min and no light! All exchangers were warm. It's done this before tho too. Ill have to drive it more and see
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top