A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Dad always said...... "If it takes fuel or has t!ts, your gonna have problems with it".Almost at my wits end.
craigystylz
New member
Lmao your dad is a wise man... So i found 1 rub through near the foot rest going into the cdi just fixing it now. Heres hoping it fixes everything
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
It almost seemed like you were talking yourself into the stator was bad. I would put that theory on hold until you have looked at every inch of harness. Rub threws are a HUGE PITA but are relatively cheap to fix. Would SUCK to drop at least $100 on a stator......then find another rub threw.
craigystylz
New member
You're 100 percent correct but since i tested it i feel better about it not being that. Other than the foot well on the left and under the motor is there other places i should be looking just as an fyi?
fourbarrel
VIP Lifetime Member
I've read before about rub through under the handlebar pad but I don't think it related to PV servo issues. Seems to me it did have something to do with the tach though so you might give it a look there. If it turns out you need a cdi let me know, I've got 2 for the 98/99 SRX 700.
craigystylz
New member
Well after fixing the one rub through on the foot board near the cdi still no tach and still code 7 or 7 flashes of the temp gauge. Is there a way to test the cdi besides trying one from a friend which none of mine have this kind of sled?
fourbarrel
VIP Lifetime Member
I don't believe there's any way the layman can test a cdi,a factory service tech with a test bench maybe but otherwise it's a replace and test operation.
craigystylz
New member
Damn how much for yours and where you located? Just messaged you. I realized we were already talking lol
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fourbarrel
VIP Lifetime Member
PM sent.
craigystylz
New member
Just a little update on the srx .. Today I recieved my new to me (used) cdi. put it all back together and .................. BOOM it runs with no power valve servo code and the tach works now.. Thanks to everyone on the fourm for there help and guidance it really helped. now off to ride the beautiful trails up here in northern ontario canada!!!
Just one more question . when i drive the sled and come to a stop it wants to slowly crawl and keep going i have to hold the break down?? anyone ever have this issue??
Just one more question . when i drive the sled and come to a stop it wants to slowly crawl and keep going i have to hold the break down?? anyone ever have this issue??
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mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
belt deflection is too tight, you adjust it by removing a thin washer on backside of sec clutch, theres 3 little 8mm headed bolts.
sgauthier
Member
what mrviper700 said. if not that then your centre to centre might be out.
craigystylz
New member
i went and looked at the 8mm bolts on the secondary and it does not look like there are any washers at all?? could it just be i need to remove the bolts to see them?? also the belt sits inside the secondary with nothing sticking out. is that normal??
Viktory2k1
VIP Member
Or c to c is off or wrong/worn belt. Probably start with belt number.
mod-it
Member
Weird that you found it is sitting flush, shouldn't be crawling like that then. Those three bolt ends on the back are designed to wear, so if washers are removed and it starts squealing or crawling like you're describing then I'd replace them and start with the washers installed again, but in your case you say the belt is flush so that shouldn't be the issue. For your knowledge more bolt depth holds the sheaves apart farther and lowers the belt (washers removed), less bolt depth puts the sheaves closer and belt sits higher.
Put the sled on a stand and run the track some (safely!). This will do two things: It'll limber the track up and show you how much it is turning/creeping at idle; and when you rev it up and then let off, let the rpms come back down and the track slow back down without hitting the brake. This will let the belt in the secondary return to it deflection position naturally and for sure show you if it's flush are a bit above/below flush. If the belt isn't sitting more than an 1/8" high in the secondary, then something else is going on. Like mentioned by Viktory, then check for proper belt and center to center.
Put the sled on a stand and run the track some (safely!). This will do two things: It'll limber the track up and show you how much it is turning/creeping at idle; and when you rev it up and then let off, let the rpms come back down and the track slow back down without hitting the brake. This will let the belt in the secondary return to it deflection position naturally and for sure show you if it's flush are a bit above/below flush. If the belt isn't sitting more than an 1/8" high in the secondary, then something else is going on. Like mentioned by Viktory, then check for proper belt and center to center.