Guy's, I have a 2000 srx that lays down on top end. It pulls very hard to 60 mph then slows after this. RPMs spike to 8500 and slowly drop back to 8000. It has a Hauck clutch kit (8bu, with a silver spring at 80 degrees and a bender 51 43 helix), I have successfully used this combination on 3 other SRX"s I have previously owned.
The compression is at 111 all cylinders, the resistance on the pick up coil is within spec but the resistance on the charge coil is high at .8 ohms. the tps is in spec also.
this year I ported the cylinders and taper bored the carbs to 35.5 mm. I installed 152 mains and set the needle for 3 1/2. I left the shelf in the air box and the same clutching as before. It still does not pull on top. the plugs are brown to black, so now I will remove the shelf in the air box to see if this helps.
Any suggestions are welcome.
The compression is at 111 all cylinders, the resistance on the pick up coil is within spec but the resistance on the charge coil is high at .8 ohms. the tps is in spec also.
this year I ported the cylinders and taper bored the carbs to 35.5 mm. I installed 152 mains and set the needle for 3 1/2. I left the shelf in the air box and the same clutching as before. It still does not pull on top. the plugs are brown to black, so now I will remove the shelf in the air box to see if this helps.
Any suggestions are welcome.
staggs65
Moderator
Silver at 80 seems like too much to me
I assume powervalves are good
I assume powervalves are good
what primary spring? is the bender helix a coded one or stamped 51/43?
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
i don,t know if i would say stator here just yet. i would go after clutching first. check both springs, rather see ya use the green in secondary, jeff hits a great point you never mention your valves. tell ya also your compression is on the low side, healthy srx should be 125/130, careful pulling airbox shelfs out this time of year. 3;16 (yammie tony)
the primary spring is a Hauck orange. Engagement is at 5000 rpm.
the helix is a bender helix stamped 123. I'm thinking now this is a 45-37?
I installed new piston rings when re-assembling after the porting as the ring end gap was approx. .001" above max spec on the old rings. I should have checked the ring end gap on the new rings, but did not.
Yesterday, I went testing with 152.5 mains, with the air box shelf removed and at -18 C. The machine pulled slightly better starting at 8500 and dropping to 8100 -8200 and the rpms were slowly pulling up. I checked the plugs and they were still on the rich side. today, I will lower the main s to150 and try again.
My elevation is at 2200 ft.
the helix is a bender helix stamped 123. I'm thinking now this is a 45-37?
I installed new piston rings when re-assembling after the porting as the ring end gap was approx. .001" above max spec on the old rings. I should have checked the ring end gap on the new rings, but did not.
Yesterday, I went testing with 152.5 mains, with the air box shelf removed and at -18 C. The machine pulled slightly better starting at 8500 and dropping to 8100 -8200 and the rpms were slowly pulling up. I checked the plugs and they were still on the rich side. today, I will lower the main s to150 and try again.
My elevation is at 2200 ft.
guys, I forgot to mention the power valves cleaned and set to 3 mm slack when fully opened. I also confirmed they were open above the top of the exhaust port when I energized the servo.
Glenn
Glenn
What elevation are you riding at...2300' or so in the YEG area?
yes 2200 to 2300 ft in the edmonton area
I ran the main jets on my ported 2002 SRX with bored carbs in the 150 - 152.5 range safely at 1500' ASL so if 150s don't correct your problem I would look elsewhere.
what you describe is a overshift, meaning its being shifted hard at the beginning then the clutch gets out in front of the engine power delivery and the rpm drops because the load is too great. I have never seen a bender helix marked 123, You stated its a hauck clutch kit but they dont use bender helix in thier kits they use a hauck helix and are coded with letters. Bender codes thier helix with engraved letters cdoes on the inside, for known angles they are marked as so, so if it was a 51/43 it would be marked 51/43, now.... if it was a 51/43 from a clutch kit its coded for example 9770tp which would mean "97, 700 triple pipe"
do you have any other helixs that you know the angles for sure or are marked?
I am guessing the finish angle of the helix is too great for the rest of the clutch set up, either the front spring needs more shift tension or the helix is not a match for the engines output or rest of the clutch set up.
do you have any other helixs that you know the angles for sure or are marked?
I am guessing the finish angle of the helix is too great for the rest of the clutch set up, either the front spring needs more shift tension or the helix is not a match for the engines output or rest of the clutch set up.
I have used this set on 2 of my previous srx's with no issue. these were stock machines using 147.5, 146.3 and 146.3 main jets.
I'm hoping I am just over jetted.
I was expecting after the porting the revs would climb 2-300 rpm?
Viper, I originally bought a grass drag set up from bender back in the day. I asked them for a different helix for snow, and this is where the 123 helix came from. Later on I bought a Hauck clutch kit using a hauck orange spring, 8bu weights, a Hauck n helix (which I heard is a straight 45 degree?). My machines wouldn't pull this helix, so I used the 123 which worked well. I heard from bender this is a 45-37. It revs the easiest of all my helixes.
thanks for all the support.
I'm hoping I am just over jetted.
I was expecting after the porting the revs would climb 2-300 rpm?
Viper, I originally bought a grass drag set up from bender back in the day. I asked them for a different helix for snow, and this is where the 123 helix came from. Later on I bought a Hauck clutch kit using a hauck orange spring, 8bu weights, a Hauck n helix (which I heard is a straight 45 degree?). My machines wouldn't pull this helix, so I used the 123 which worked well. I heard from bender this is a 45-37. It revs the easiest of all my helixes.
thanks for all the support.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
at that elevation, it has to be clutching. higher ya are less air, less power. 3:16 (yammie tony)
or you need to revaluate the porting set up you did you may have very well lost power. easiest way to check is to put stock clutch back in, it should over rev, if it doesnt your not making more power.
8bu weights and a straight 45 helix would be no problem for even a stock srx to pull, it all comes down to the springs used along with it.
The 8bu doesnt have a alot of tip weight and the 45 is 2 degrees shallower then stock, so I would say you need to look at your spring combo and rivet combo in the set up.
I have used alot of set ups with 8bu-00 with a 51/45 helix, but youd need a primary spring in the area of 50/136kg, the hauck orange would be low on rpm because its softer then that, so youd have low shift/peak rpm.
The 8bu doesnt have a alot of tip weight and the 45 is 2 degrees shallower then stock, so I would say you need to look at your spring combo and rivet combo in the set up.
I have used alot of set ups with 8bu-00 with a 51/45 helix, but youd need a primary spring in the area of 50/136kg, the hauck orange would be low on rpm because its softer then that, so youd have low shift/peak rpm.
yamalars
Member
Did you modify your heads to make up for the lost compression after the portjob? 111 psi seems a bit low but may be a ok reading at that elevation??
I have been working on this for the past week.
I have checked crankshaft runnout= .0008" max spec at .0012.
rechecked compression = 111psi on all cylinders
I leaned the jets to 150 on all three cylinders. as Bob says, I would not go lower than this on a cold day.
I removed the flywheel to inspect the stator. The flywheel was very dirty on the underside, and partially rusty on the surface. I lightly polished this and cleaned the underside of the flywheel. the stator itself was very clean?
I confirmed the servo motor on the power valves is working as I lowered the idle under 900 rpm and watched it open. I also revved the engine above 6000 and watched them open. the power valves were previously set to 3mm.
I have now installed the stock clutching and the machine is still falling flat. It easily spikes to 8400 and falls back to 7800 - 8000 rpm. The machine easily climbs to 90 mph, but not pulling rpm.
When I first got this machine last year, I went to the races and at approx. 200-300 ft the machine started to run on 1-2 cylinders. I thought I blew the engine, but it turns out the plugs fouled.
At another race last year, I was leading but was later passed by an old Mach 1 and my own Apex.
This year my buddies 800 Summit passed me as well after I had the porting and head work done.
last year trail riding, I started the machine up for the first time of the day, and all plugs on all 3 cylinders took turns fouling. Once I eventually got the machine started and warmed up it was OK.
I an not sure where to go with this next. I was thinking there was a stator issue with all plug fouling and weak top end? or possibly a bad CDI?
I have checked crankshaft runnout= .0008" max spec at .0012.
rechecked compression = 111psi on all cylinders
I leaned the jets to 150 on all three cylinders. as Bob says, I would not go lower than this on a cold day.
I removed the flywheel to inspect the stator. The flywheel was very dirty on the underside, and partially rusty on the surface. I lightly polished this and cleaned the underside of the flywheel. the stator itself was very clean?
I confirmed the servo motor on the power valves is working as I lowered the idle under 900 rpm and watched it open. I also revved the engine above 6000 and watched them open. the power valves were previously set to 3mm.
I have now installed the stock clutching and the machine is still falling flat. It easily spikes to 8400 and falls back to 7800 - 8000 rpm. The machine easily climbs to 90 mph, but not pulling rpm.
When I first got this machine last year, I went to the races and at approx. 200-300 ft the machine started to run on 1-2 cylinders. I thought I blew the engine, but it turns out the plugs fouled.
At another race last year, I was leading but was later passed by an old Mach 1 and my own Apex.
This year my buddies 800 Summit passed me as well after I had the porting and head work done.
last year trail riding, I started the machine up for the first time of the day, and all plugs on all 3 cylinders took turns fouling. Once I eventually got the machine started and warmed up it was OK.
I an not sure where to go with this next. I was thinking there was a stator issue with all plug fouling and weak top end? or possibly a bad CDI?
nice job on the checks and nice documentation, I would explore 1 more check on the crankshaft before i bought a stator but if it turns out to be "ok", I would also agree to replace the stator as its likely weak at peak which is the high draw section for the charge coil in it. As you noted with stock clutching its not over revving and still falls back so that tells me its not making peak power at all and not for any duration.
remove your spark plugs, and use a long handled phillips head screw driver and insert it in the hole, rotating the primary clutch in 1 direction only ,turn it until the screw driver comes to TDC, the highest part it will come up out of the hole. Mark the screw driver shaft with a perm marker, then go down to your primary clutch and make a mark at 12 o clock on it or in referance to a point on the engine you can reuse for the other 2 cylinders. Now go and put the screw driver in hole 2 and same thing on the clutch the mark on screw driver should be the same for each with piston at TDC. when your done doing all 3 youll have 3 marks on your primary clutch. take a cloth tape and measure between your marks, they should all 3 be the same distance, check that....... and report back.
I use a degree wheel to do this check but this is the backyard method and will give you the same result to check the cranks phase.
remove your spark plugs, and use a long handled phillips head screw driver and insert it in the hole, rotating the primary clutch in 1 direction only ,turn it until the screw driver comes to TDC, the highest part it will come up out of the hole. Mark the screw driver shaft with a perm marker, then go down to your primary clutch and make a mark at 12 o clock on it or in referance to a point on the engine you can reuse for the other 2 cylinders. Now go and put the screw driver in hole 2 and same thing on the clutch the mark on screw driver should be the same for each with piston at TDC. when your done doing all 3 youll have 3 marks on your primary clutch. take a cloth tape and measure between your marks, they should all 3 be the same distance, check that....... and report back.
I use a degree wheel to do this check but this is the backyard method and will give you the same result to check the cranks phase.
thanks Viper, I'll check this tomorrow.
Mr Viper,
I borrowed a dial from work and set the pistons to TDC and scribed the clutches as you have described. When measuring with a tape, the distance between the scribes are the same.
I purchased and installed a new stator. The machine is still laying down on top. Could there be a ECU issue? I am not sure what to try next.
I borrowed a dial from work and set the pistons to TDC and scribed the clutches as you have described. When measuring with a tape, the distance between the scribes are the same.
I purchased and installed a new stator. The machine is still laying down on top. Could there be a ECU issue? I am not sure what to try next.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Would a belt that is abit too worn(narrow) cause this. Just spitballing here.