snowboardman137
New member
I have a 99 srx 700, it sat for 2-3 yrs needing crank seals, pulled the motor and did crank seals and a full service, it is really boggy and seems like it is dropping the mag side, checked reeds ok, compression ok, but it is dropping the mag side, another thing I noticed is that the idle does seem to hang when it's cold but once warmed up it seems ok, seems to idle ok sometimes when cold started, ran good for 1000 ft or so and fell on its face, it is getting good spark, new plugs, cleaned carbs, not sure where to go, with the air box top off I can choke that one cylinder with my hand and it seems to come out of it. Sprayed carb clean around the recoil cover and doesn't seem to pick up at all if it were the crank seal... Not sure where to go with it now? Did the fuel pump on these sleds pump a lot of fuel? I can pull it over with the lines off and it seems to pump but doesn't blow fuel out... Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Also is there anyone in central maine that has a clutch puller I can borrow? I tried ordering one and they are all on factory backorder
yamaha10290
New member
I have an 02, it is doing same thing. my reeds r good and I even switched coil with a different cylinder, still drops mag side cylinder intermittently. I have also done everything u have done and my plugs look like perfect burn. my tors is not hooked up. I have heard of rub through but cant seem to find info on it. also my buddy has an extra stator so might switch it out tomorrow and see if that does anything
yamaha10290
New member
just did some research could b stator or cdi box, I will let u know what I come across
YooperWoods
New member
If you choke that carb and it comes back I'd say you have a fuel issue on that cylinder. Are you 100% sure that carb is clean especially the pilot jet? I'd pull that carb and go through it meticulously making sure every jet and passage is spotless and check the float level too.
If your not sure if its tors(not 10290), I made a video of a TORS failure.
http://youtu.be/a428j1uLgWU
http://youtu.be/a428j1uLgWU
yamaha10290
New member
yamaha10290
New member
I unplugged the kill switch have not had problem since I have done that. Been riding trails a lot more though. For some reason there is 3 wires to kill switch. Not sure where they go. Just been ripping it up. Did not change cdi or stator.
snowboardman137
New member
Ok, update, I know it has been a couple weeks... Pulled the carbs, and rechecked them, did find a little crud in them and replaced all my fuel lines as they were cracked, fixed my broken clutch and started it right up, seemed to still be popping, shut it down and checked plug wires and plugs, looked ok, restarted and found it running great, took it for a ride, ran great the whole time, parked it, went back down to start it about an hour later and couldn't get it to start without pulling the plugs and spraying carb clean, got it running and tried to take it for a quick ride and it seemed to start cutting out again. Spark is not dying... As I was able to put a spark tester on and it is firing on all 3... Just sputters and boggy, choke doesn't seem to help... I have never been stumped with sleds before but this has me stumped... Is there a timing adjustment to the stator? I did have it off earlier this yr to do crank seals...
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Test plug caps, 5 ohms is what your looking for. They do go bad.
snowboardman137
New member
Are they normal screw on style?
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Yes, they screw onto to wire.
snowboardman137
New member
Where r the grounds located in the sled? Maybe a bad ground?
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snowboardman137
New member
What are the ohm measurements on the stator for these? I just want to check it to say it's ok... And also how can I check the CDI?
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Search this forum for "Ohm stator", or something like that. There's a couple of threads that you'll find the specs on. That's what I did when I checked mine, I can't remember them off the top of my head.
snowboardman137
New member
I'm thinking it still may be a fuel issue... It won't start now without giving it a couple squirts of carb cleaner.... Here's the run down... The other day I got it running great after taking the carbs off, checking reeds, boots, cleaning carbs again, and replaced the fuel lines... it ran awesome, took it for a quick spin with no helmet, came back grabbed a bite to eat, helmet etc. went to restart and could not get it started without carb clean... Got it running seemed to idle ok, took it for a ride and it bogged out and acted like it was running on 1 or 2 cyls... Got it in the shop, started pulling plug wires and it is still running on all 3 just running like crap... Not really sure where to go... Electrical or fuel pump maybe?
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you need to check the wire harness under the engine and over at the cdi box, its likely rubbed thru at one or both.
snowboardman137
New member
Just checked at the CDI box, nothing rubbed thru there, under the motor looks as though it has already been repaired, it has non oem electrical tape for a good chunk of it, the back of the CDI box has like chunks poking out, is that normal? I also checked the stator resistance and its all withing spec. .
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The original problem with the harness is that it wasn't protected from chaffing with either correct stand offs, or protective covering. It may have been repaired, and may not be your problem, but if it was just taped and reinstalled, it may still be casuing issues. Tie a string to it, pull it out and remove all the tape for a good look. Retape enough to keep it bundled, then encase it with split convolute. Pull it back through with the string.
yes, its normal for the back of cdi box to have stuff in the epoxy, its like 3d looking.
easier to pull the airbox and then get at the harness under engine, bend over as many of the retaining tabs as you can reach in front, unplug harness at hood hinge, tie a string on it so you can pull it back thru later. Go over to recoil area and grab harness, pull up and back and up it out from under engine, youll need to tug good as theres 2 of those straps you wont be able to reach under the engine so you have to tug the harness out of them. When you get it out i would pull off all the old tape and inspect it by each wire its sure to have some chaffing, they all do.
Repair each wire, either solder back together if rubbed in half and/or tape each one individually. Then tape the whole harness and then put it in plastic convolute tubing(can get at any auto parts store), reroute the harness and pull with your string.
this will not be in vain, they ALL rub thru sooner or later and once you fix this youll never have to mess with it as long as that sleds lives. It will cause all kinds of weird electrical problems, common repair needed on all of the pro action chassis sleds.
easier to pull the airbox and then get at the harness under engine, bend over as many of the retaining tabs as you can reach in front, unplug harness at hood hinge, tie a string on it so you can pull it back thru later. Go over to recoil area and grab harness, pull up and back and up it out from under engine, youll need to tug good as theres 2 of those straps you wont be able to reach under the engine so you have to tug the harness out of them. When you get it out i would pull off all the old tape and inspect it by each wire its sure to have some chaffing, they all do.
Repair each wire, either solder back together if rubbed in half and/or tape each one individually. Then tape the whole harness and then put it in plastic convolute tubing(can get at any auto parts store), reroute the harness and pull with your string.
this will not be in vain, they ALL rub thru sooner or later and once you fix this youll never have to mess with it as long as that sleds lives. It will cause all kinds of weird electrical problems, common repair needed on all of the pro action chassis sleds.
snowboardman137
New member
Just pulled the harness back as you said, there were 3 wires that had been repaired, I checked and they are all ok, no other rubbing thru, I had some red convulate in the shop, put it back together, same problem. I'm wondering if the pickup cool has adjustment for distance away from the flywheel? I had that apart earlier this yr doing crank seals and never measured it with a feeler gauge... What should it be set at if it does have adjustment?
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