8bv50 is a straight 45 helix, that might be better for you to tune with as its easier to get a straight shift curve before you switch to a multi angle helix. Also if the helixs are all differnt brands your not really gonna be able to compare angles as they all shift differntly as to the radius in which the helix is cut, it makes them act more or less aggressive.
try that set up i gave you... borrow a set of 8bu-00, they are not the same shift as 8ca, check the mph and see what you get.
I have always used maxx perf helix or dalton. You will find all differnt results if the helix are all differnt brands or are "coded" helix's like hauck and bender , that you go off the info on the internet, as its usually wrong if they were not actually measured on a cmm to see what they are actually cut at.
try that set up i gave you... borrow a set of 8bu-00, they are not the same shift as 8ca, check the mph and see what you get.
I have always used maxx perf helix or dalton. You will find all differnt results if the helix are all differnt brands or are "coded" helix's like hauck and bender , that you go off the info on the internet, as its usually wrong if they were not actually measured on a cmm to see what they are actually cut at.
I am the only yamaha guy around here and i never see any yamaha guys at the races that are willing to borrow any weights from and i am still trying to locate a 37 bottom gear
Just to clear up something are your weights 89A or 89A-10 ?
Radar run report 99 600srx 118psi 120 1" ice picks
89a weights @ 56 grams
Gwg with 6 shims
48/38 helix
Pink sring @ 80 wrap
170lb driver
8060 rpms
99.60mph
First place at leaf valley speed rally
89a weights @ 56 grams
Gwg with 6 shims
48/38 helix
Pink sring @ 80 wrap
170lb driver
8060 rpms
99.60mph
First place at leaf valley speed rally
better pull the powervalves must be pulled thru to have that much spring pressure and 6 shims, and a pink sec spring only to turn 8000 rpm, sure sounds like they are pulled thru. The engines hit a wall at 8000rpm when they are pulled.
I took them out and they are still attached and clean I had them adjusted last spring do you think they stretched or dont they do that and how would i know if they did or would they need to be adjusted again
staggs65
Moderator
pull the cover off the servo and make sure its operating as well
a freind of mine works at a snowmobile dealership, he is one of the mechanics there, could he test the servo motor and the power valve movement without being on the sled? I already have them off and it would be cheaper for me and less time for him. also, when I tried a different clutch setup yesterday the sled did hit 8620 rpms before shifting, then went down to 7400rpms, obviously it didnt work, whats odd is I had tried weights all the way from 45 gram to 56 gram and the rpm would stay within 100 rpms, the guy I got it from used to drag race it, could the timing be too advanced, he used to grind out the pickup coil to advance the timing more on some of his sleds, he doesnt remember if he did or not. again I have to tell myself I'm having fun. LOL
you can remove the cover like stagss said then start up the sled and go to the pto side, turn the idle down to under 900rpm and they should open up. They will also open up above like 5500rpm while running it on a jackstand but thats not so easy to observe by yourself since the servo is on the opposite side...lol
Any answers on the other questions while i have the sled apart
yea you could power up the servo if he had the right stuff but thats not what you need to check as the servo is powered by the cdi box in your sled and thats what you need to know is working, if its nice and smooth opening... good, if its erratic and jerky thats your rpm problem. in a nut shell, put it back on and check it .