Questions?/Update Ongoing SX700 fixing...

sloTJ

sloTJ

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Messages
286
Location
Cambridge, WI
So my continued fixing of my sled is going... Im trying to get the ('03) viper skid in now. My cracked/leaking left side heat ex. is out and the new one is in and riveted down. The bolts to the back two skid mounts are not going in well. It should be the same bolt and shaft thats in the original SX skid right? I've also never aligned the track before which I will have to do soon. Is this just as simple as just tightening the back wheels/axle to get the right track tension?

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Take the transfer rod bolts all the way out. This will alow the skid to compress easier to alow the middle holes to line up and bolt in easier. Then put bolts back in and tighten bolts and lower sled till they line up. Also tipping sled on side and another pair of hands will unload the skid also and help get it in to place. The viper skids are the same bolt pattern but they like to fight ya going in the sx tunnels for some reason.
 
Thanks 1c! Im waiting to put head gaskets in now after they dried all night. Kinda scared to do it because it didnt work out last time with replacing the one.
 
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sloTJ said:
Thanks 1c! Im waiting to put head gaskets in now after they dried all night. Kinda scared to do it because it didnt work out last time with replacing the one.
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I usually only let the gasket spray sit for a few minutes before I install them. Never had a problem with them leaking.
 
I think these links work now, but got the gaskets in place and lowered the head back on. Look right? There are some small marks on the walls of one cylinder but they look good otherwise I guess. What ya think? Piston heads are a even dark brown-black color.

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Well I did the two step 8ft/lbs then 17-18ft/lbs filled it with coolant and pulled it over a few times before starting it to get everything moving. I pulled it about 3 times and it started really well. As it got warm I opened the cap and looked in and added some more coolant as it ran. The coolant level at the cap would rise and fall very consistantly. I let it run and got that #$%&* red light AGAIN! Its far too familiar of a sight for me and this stupid sled. Im at a loss from how angry I am. Ive put noting but time and money into it to have it do the same exact thing! replaced the left heat exchanger! All new headgaskets again! Had the water pump redone! Some one help me please, because I'm sick of dealing with it. I havnt ridden it at all for like 2 years now because Ive been battling this.:whine:
 
Keep coolant level full in the overflow bottle. Back flush the line with a breath of air from your lungs. Just to make sure there no moss growing in the line. Once it's hot and light is on, shut off and go have a cup of coffee. Come back out and I'll bet the overflow bottle is empty.
 
Do you have to bleed it right after this? I dont want to put more work into it just to find out that the only possible problem is that around 10k miles the brass gear on crank started spinning... Ill have to get the track back together before I can truly bleed it. The heat exchangers weren't warming up either even as the light was on. UGH
 
Im tightening the track and trying to bleed it now. My track windows dont line up with the adjustment bolts very well, they are too far apart. Making it a little difficult to stick a socket in at an angle to tighten. Its still way too loose and just ratchets.
 
A couple of bucks said:
Keep coolant level full in the overflow bottle. Back flush the line with a breath of air from your lungs. Just to make sure there no moss growing in the line. Once it's hot and light is on, shut off and go have a cup of coffee. Come back out and I'll bet the overflow bottle is empty.
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The overfull bottle stays full even when hotm but I can take the main cap off and its not full up to the cap?? So I add there when its cool. :dunno::dunno::dunno:
 
Should i park it on an incline so the front is raised or the back to bleed it? The back bleeder or the front one over the head?
 
2 times ive bled my system i just let it run while level and refilled. Never this amount of trouble.

Anyways. You raise the back end up and unscrew bleed valve under seat for rear exchanger.
 
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