SRXBOY
New member
Hi
I have a 98 SRX with about 4000km. I had started it up a few times during the summer and all they cylinders were working. I started it tonight and the right cylinder when sitting on the sled was not working. I noticed this from the prob temperature I thought it was maybe a bad prob but the pipe is cold and the other 2 are hot. I took a look in the cylinder and from what I can see the piston looks ok.
I just had the carbs apart and cleaned them less then 300 km ago so I am hoping it is not this. I took the plug out and started it and could see the plug was firing fine. I couldn't smell any gas so I do not think it is leaking. I popped this plug wire off when it was running and made no effect on the engine sound.
When I cleaned the carbs I also installed Aaen triple pipes and V-Force 3 reeds and the upgrades worked fine.
My next test is to pull the fuel line from that cylinder give it a couple pulls and see if I can see any gas coming out of the line.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I have a 98 SRX with about 4000km. I had started it up a few times during the summer and all they cylinders were working. I started it tonight and the right cylinder when sitting on the sled was not working. I noticed this from the prob temperature I thought it was maybe a bad prob but the pipe is cold and the other 2 are hot. I took a look in the cylinder and from what I can see the piston looks ok.
I just had the carbs apart and cleaned them less then 300 km ago so I am hoping it is not this. I took the plug out and started it and could see the plug was firing fine. I couldn't smell any gas so I do not think it is leaking. I popped this plug wire off when it was running and made no effect on the engine sound.
When I cleaned the carbs I also installed Aaen triple pipes and V-Force 3 reeds and the upgrades worked fine.
My next test is to pull the fuel line from that cylinder give it a couple pulls and see if I can see any gas coming out of the line.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Backwoods M Max
New member
Could have a stuck float in that carb. Standard procedure for this type of issue is pull the carbs and clean them again unless you confirmed that it's not spark.
SRXBOY
New member
Thanks for the input.
SRXBOY
New member
I am in the middle of cleaning them
mod-it
Member
Carbs are definitely first place to start. How many Km doesn't come into play, what comes into play is the hot weather during summer storage. The fuel in the carbs evaporates, leaving a bunch of crud behind. Then we go to fire them up and new gas fills up the bowls, picking up all the crud, and then this crud is sucked into the jets when it fires up. You could clean the carbs at the end of the season and still have them plugged after starting it back up at the beginning of the season if the fuel is left in the carbs over the summer.
Oh, and starting them up over the summer isn't a good idea. Combustion creates moisture, and if it is ran but not brought all the way up to operating temperature, then this moisture doesn't evaporate off and winds up down in the crank.
Oh, and starting them up over the summer isn't a good idea. Combustion creates moisture, and if it is ran but not brought all the way up to operating temperature, then this moisture doesn't evaporate off and winds up down in the crank.
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SRXBOY
New member
And I have heard that if you do not warm it up completely then you can have rust issues in your pipes. This year I may fog it and empty the fuel from the carb. Our gas is good from spring until late fall so I would not have to use stabilizer. I always run the highest octain available and now we have 94.
Thanks
Thanks
Backwoods M Max
New member
Leaving fuel in the carbs and not fogging the motor is rolling the dice big time. Fogging coats all your bearings and gives everything a nice coating of sticky oil to block moisture. You should clean your carbs in the spring anyways before you put it away.
Run it with the airbox off to fog it, pull the carbs and clean them then store them on the sled dry. Get one of those shaker siphons and tip the sled to create a low spot and you can get 99% of the gas out. Now your starting with fresh gas and clean carbs so you should have a trouble free season.
Run it with the airbox off to fog it, pull the carbs and clean them then store them on the sled dry. Get one of those shaker siphons and tip the sled to create a low spot and you can get 99% of the gas out. Now your starting with fresh gas and clean carbs so you should have a trouble free season.
roudyroy1
Active member
X2 on that. I preach the same process, All you do in the fall is pull the cord and go!
Good advice but if you're like me, working on your sled when the fish are biting and turkeys are gobblin' is the last thing you want to do come springtime.
When storing, I drain all but a gallon of fuel and poor 4-5 ounces of trans fluid in the tank. Let the sled warm up good then drain the tank dry (I use clear tygon tubing the old fashion way).
I remove the air box and start it. While working the throttle I run a half can of fogging oil into all three cylinders and end with applying half, then full choke until it runs out of fuel. Spray everything with silicone spray, loosen the track and store it with the suspension dangling and cover.
There is something to be said about storing with a full tank, especially with E free fuel.
Whatever you do - use fresh, in season fuel for the first ride next winter.
SRXBOY
New member
Its back together and running better then last time I cleaned the carbs. I idles in less then 30 seconds which never happened before it usually does not idle until it is partially warmed up. Thanks for all the advise from everyone.
Backwoods M Max
New member
The only thing I don't like about storing with gas is even without ethanol that gas is good for 6 months max. Even if it didn't make any goo over the summer the octane value is seriously degraded. It's easiert to dry the tank and use the gas in the lawn mower/tractor/atv or even dump it in the car then let it sit all summer.
Agreed. Whether you store with a full tank or empty, using fresh, in season fuel for the first ride is a must.
I personally don't like having 10 gallons of fuel sitting in my sled when using my wood burner and also the HCs emmited from permeation. Paranoid perhaps.
The advantage of storing with a full tank is that there is less leaching of the plasticizers so the tank takes longer to become brittle.