It is a good line, stiff and difficult to collapse.
If I go back in time before the rebuild, everything was fine. I notched the reed cage, installed a thinner head gasket, raised the center needles 1/2 a notch, and installed a 170 main jet (vs stock 160) which i've since played with and noted no difference.
Clutching seems fine, it sure appears to be inside the carb.
If I go back in time before the rebuild, everything was fine. I notched the reed cage, installed a thinner head gasket, raised the center needles 1/2 a notch, and installed a 170 main jet (vs stock 160) which i've since played with and noted no difference.
Clutching seems fine, it sure appears to be inside the carb.
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Why did you go up to a 170. In my 600 twin I'm running the stock 152.5s w/ a 95 head gasket. Do you think that it might be toooooo rich? Sh!t I'm almost out of idears.
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Do you have a non-contact thermometer that you could point and shoot at the Y pipe?
When the piston skirt broke, I brought the pistons to work and everyone said it looked lean (no wash). I did put the factory 160 back in it with no change, so I put the 170 back in (I dont want to burn this down would rather be safe).
I am almost wondering also if it is too rich. Mid range pull is awesome.
I am almost wondering also if it is too rich. Mid range pull is awesome.
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Drop the clips a whole position and see if there is a difference. At least you will be knowing if your headed in the right direction.
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I do have an IR thermometer, after idling 10 minutes I get 350 degrees at the Y Pipe. I will check it after a trail ride today.
drew24
New member
I know nothing about the smart carbs. Clutching could seem ok but if it is binding when it has a lot of pressure it can do funny things. If it is out of wack even a little it could cause that at wot. I was on my 600 when I first got it and all the sudden it started missing(I thought). I was sure I blew it up but it ran good at idle so I knew that wasn't the case. Ended up being the primary. I would at least measure and make sure the clutches are offset properly and the correct distance apart just to be sure. It has to be something simple.
Thanks for everyones input.
Drew, I dont think its clutching because when I go 3/4 throttle and cruise I can get 70 mph, which is full shift by that point. I should be able to ease into the throttle and reach WOT with no issues at that point clutching wise. But I might be wrong in my thinking and it is worth a check!
Drew, I dont think its clutching because when I go 3/4 throttle and cruise I can get 70 mph, which is full shift by that point. I should be able to ease into the throttle and reach WOT with no issues at that point clutching wise. But I might be wrong in my thinking and it is worth a check!
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drew24
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I was just thinking the load on the clutch even at full shift is going to be different cruising rather than wot but who knows. Hopefully you get this figured out. I have been there before and sometimes you have to think outside the box and you will probably be cussing yourself when you figure it out. lol Been there a lot of times.
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That's odd. Ya should've noticed something. I mean ..... 160s are fat already.
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Yea like ....... it was the spark plugs. Id probably fall on a sword if that was it.
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What do the plugs look like after the rebuild.
I think it's the smart carbs. I unplugged the top solonoids and it ran like crap. Shut it down, plugged them back in and now the sled is running great. I would say 95% of the issues are gone.
I'll get some photos of the plugs.
I'll get some photos of the plugs.
drew24
New member
Maybe it had a bad connection. That's a good deal. Glad you have it figured out.