Heelclickers 136 viper

Youllbe2nd

Youllbe2nd

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Any body run these weights in a 136 piped viper? Not sure where to start with it. Got some 40-10 weights here and red spring. Also have drag and fly weights but not sure which way to go. I'm aiming for 9000 rpm. Got a 51/39 cam and some other helixes around here.
 

list what all helixs you have to work with.

also do you have the stock 22/38 gearsin the chaincase with your 8 tooth drivers?
 
mrviper700 said:
list what all helixs you have to work with.

also do you have the stock 22/38 gearsin the chaincase with your 8 tooth drivers?
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It is stock gears. I have some other gears. 23 and a 24. Also I think I have a 39 bottom. Just bought this sled. It's got a 50/44 helix on it. I have a yamaha 45, bender 51/39.
 
is the helix a coded helix or is it stamped 50/44 from bender, if its coded it will have a letter and number sequence hand engraved inside for example: 9870, 9770tp, like that.

also what brand triple pipes on the viper??
 
mrviper700 said:
is the helix a coded helix or is it stamped 50/44 from bender, if its coded it will have a letter and number sequence hand engraved inside for example: 9870, 9770tp, like that.

also what brand triple pipes on the viper??
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50/44 is what the guy told me is on there I would have to measure it to see exact angles. It's not a bender helix. I'm not sure of the brand. 51/39 is a coded bender. I will buy the best helix for this setup. They are SLP pipes. Seems your the man to talk to about this stuff! Thanks ALOT for your help.
 
his sled is a 136 expert x suspension. 1.352 cobra track. running 8 tooth anti ratchet, sled is piped with cpr pipes turns 8900 out of the whole and pulls to 9100. Correction to his set up btw.

Its 5 washers and bolt in heel
3.3 with lock washer in center and same in tip
red spring

secondary is like posted above

and its geared 22/39

max mph out of it is around 90. but It gets there in a hurry
 
Any one ever try 37/24 gearing in a 136 with 8 tooth? Doing the math im getting 111.5 mph @ 9000rpm. 38/24 would be 109 @ 9000. Sound right? Just need to know starting point for weights and helix. I think your setup is different than what I'm after but thanks for the post.
 
you seem to be concerned with top speed, if thats the case why start off with a 136 sled with 8 tooth drivers? Kinda shootin yourself in the foot, also heel clickers are an awesome weight but not the weight I would use for radar running where i am worried about topspeed. the 40-10 clamp the belt and accellerate the snowmobile rapidly so your not on the track long enough to build good mph but youd have a low et.

before i give you somewhere to start what exactly are you wanting the sled to do and what type of riding are you doing 90% of the time???, dont tell me speed runs if your gonna go to a race 1 time a year and trail ride the rest of the year, the rest of the time youll hate the sled, set it up for the 90%
 
A buddy gave me a set of hammer time weights. I think they are hammertime anyway. I have heard horror stories about these weights BUT my friend has had them on his sxr for a few years with good luck. He said after trying 40-10 and drag N flys that he had the best luck with the HT. he said that they used to have an aluminum pivot and the old style used to come apart. These weights have a steel pivot. Are these the problematic ones? I just noticed one of my 40-10 weights is broken so unfortunately this may be my only option now. Can you help me with a setup for these instead? What's your opinion?
 
I wouldnt put the hammertime ones in, they will come apart. The first ones were done with a steel rivet that was just not thick enough and the later ones had a small allen head bolt for the pivot, but both eventually fail and it takes out the whole clutch and is dangerous. I would stay away from those. I have used the heel clicker weights since he brought them out, all the generations and the least amount of problems is the 40-10, they work great.

If I were you just order a new set of 40-10, they are like $235 comes with 2 springs and all the hardware, the newest ones are billet steel.
 
mrviper700 said:
I wouldnt put the hammertime ones in, they will come apart. The first ones were done with a steel rivet that was just not thick enough and the later ones had a small allen head bolt for the pivot, but both eventually fail and it takes out the whole clutch and is dangerous. I would stay away from those. I have used the heel clicker weights since he brought them out, all the generations and the least amount of problems is the 40-10, they work great.

If I were you just order a new set of 40-10, they are like $235 comes with 2 springs and all the hardware, the newest ones are billet steel.
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Yeah I guess I'll buy new ones. That SUCKS.
 
yes, thats the early riveted ones too. I would not put those into my own sled, thats why i wouldnt tell you to use them.
 
mrviper700 said:
yes, thats the early riveted ones too. I would not put those into my own sled, thats why i wouldnt tell you to use them.
Click to expand...

Ok in the scrap bin! I Don't need shrapnel flying around! I'll be ordering some new 40-10 weights. What's your advice for a good trail setup?
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424628183.943083.jpg found these in the classifieds for 100$. I have a red heelclicker spring, all tuning hard wear, I have a red dot, green dot and silver dot, sec spring. I'll just need a helix. I'm wondering about this 51/39 I have. it's pretty close.
 
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