BROKE SOMETHING: SX7 subtle vibration when accel?

sloTJ

sloTJ

Member
Joined
Jun 27, 2013
Messages
288
Location
Cambridge, WI
Hey guys. My 97 MAX is AWESOME! 11k miles not rebuilt yet and ive gone through a good 2 full tanks of 91 non ethanol... I LOVE it and will keep it forever! :wink:
BUT, I think I broke something just now and Im not sure what... I was riding through fields and ditches just now around home because the trails aren't open. Im just enjoying my sled for the first time in a long time so I dont care, Im smiling all the time on it anyway just beating around here (MUCH FUN). The thing screams and runs awesome now that I have new head gaskets and waterpump in and working no overheating yet at all.
Anyway sorry, I went over a driveway and came back into the ditch a little hard landing and gassed it and felt a slight vibration seemed to be right side. I only notice it when accelerating. Its a very subtle but fast tempo clunking/vibration on right side of sled. What should I check?? The motor still runs great, speedo still works so its not the clutch side drive bearing... I have a viper skid now and got the track tight enough to not ratchet much. I also have gotten the track to be equally in the center of the rear axle wheels so 99% sure its aligned. What you guys think? Major or minor? jackshaft? bent drive shaft? cogs bad? something suspension wise? IDK. Thanks.
 
How does the w-arm on the suspension. Could have bent or broke. Or possibly bent skid rail?
 
I looked at the w arm quick and didnt see a broken weld but it was filled with snow too. Ill look better later. When I put the skid in I looked at the welds and all were perfect. I dont think many miles were on this viper skid when it was taken out. Rails cant be horribly bent but could be a little. I dont know how this would make a vibrating only on acceleration.
 
Track slapping against the tunnel protectors?

I'd look for rub/wear marks all over the tunnel and inner/outer track surface, check the track clips, drive cogs, maybe tighten the track and ride it again. Rotate it by hand with the belt off.

Flapping stud?

Motor loose, grab and not move it?

Then I'd look at the drive axle bearings, chaincase.
 
sloTJ said:
It sits about flush with the sheaves o the secondary
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Yes, but a belt can get a flat spot or be missing chunks and make a clunking sound. It will usually get less noticeable the faster you go. Put a new belt on. ..a new one, not one that was a backup that may also be shot.
 
I had the same problem last weekend with my friends srx, vibration/clunking sound under acceleration, the belt had a flat spot.
 
I found something! The whole left side of the motor can wiggle ALOT. If I grab the primary and shake it up and down the pto side motor mount is basically unattached... How many mounts are there on a redhead? The two upfront and more??
 
sloTJ said:
I found something! The whole left side of the motor can wiggle ALOT. If I grab the primary and shake it up and down the pto side motor mount is basically unattached... How many mounts are there on a redhead? The two upfront and more??
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Sometimes the most obvious is the easiest to overlook.

I'd yank the carbs and check the rear mount too.
 
sloTJ said:
Where's the rear mount?
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under the carbs of course...check it out quick before you do some big time damage.Check the bolts that go to the engine on the back mounts,either bolts fell out or are broken.Better hope for the bolts falling out before snapped and still in the block.
 
Ok I will check that then. Only the left front mount seems to be extremely loose or broken. So there are just 3 motor mounts? No more,
 
sloTJ said:
Where's the rear mount?
Click to expand...

Sorry, out playing dome ball with jr.

Just gotta say - 21-0 Niners! Jr. went 3/4 with a hit pitch walk and a 3 run blast over right center. Pitched a 7 pitch 123 second inning.

Anyhow, I think it's under the carbs but you may want to get into the broken front one first (tighten, replace, fix) then check alignment and engine rigidity (can you wiggle it now).

If okay, let 'er rip then check for clutch heat. If okay, let 'er rip some mo.
 
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