Project: Yamabishi

I intend to drive it similar. However I will extend the drive shaft past the K-Member, attatch the secondary to that, then the engine will be mounted longitudinally above it. This will put the belt in front of both the engine, and the car (better for clutch tuning and belt cooling). Basically my engine will be mounted 180 degrees from the picture.:2strokes:[/QUOTE]

Was thinking about this today........Turning the engine 180 degrees will also reverse the rotation of clutches/driveshaft......making the car go backwards? Some thing you can do in the rear differential to compensate? Or am I missing something?
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
I intend to drive it similar. However I will extend the drive shaft past the K-Member, attatch the secondary to that, then the engine will be mounted longitudinally above it. This will put the belt in front of both the engine, and the car (better for clutch tuning and belt cooling). Basically my engine will be mounted 180 degrees from the picture.:2strokes:*-
Click to expand...

Was thinking about this today........Turning the engine 180 degrees will also reverse the rotation of clutches/driveshaft......making the car go backwards? Some thing you can do in the rear differential to compensate? Or am I missing something?[/QUOTE]

Good catch Devilin. To tell you the truth I have been more focused on gearing as of now.

The cars rear gears are 3.55:1. @ 8800rpm and a shift of 1:1 that is 170mph!!

When I re-target a top speed of 110mph, I find I need a rear ratio of 5.5:1....The lowest gear I can fit in that differential is 4.20:1, not low enough. I need approximately a 2:1 reduction to make my current rear gears work.

As of now I can think of three options:
1. Replace the differential with another IRS diff with low enough gears. (ford 8.8" available down to 5.7:1. Irs cars: Explorer and Thunderbird)
2. Install the original trans, power thru it, choose a gear that is close to my needed ratio. (heavier, robs more power, but in theory I would have reverse!)
3. Make a chain reduction to the drive shaft. (10/20t sprocket, probably a double (duplex) chain setup. 520 or 530 dirtbike or sportbike chain should work).

I am leaning towards option 3. It will be an easier way to prove the car works and the ratio is correct. Perhaps in the future a rear end change would be in order if the car works well.
 
Why not use the sleds chaincase somewhere along the line. You could end up with reverse too. (sorry if it was already said)
 
Im not sure if it could handle the load? 140hp working against 1800ish lbs. What do you guys think? My other concern was how they fail (explode) and the cost of a new case, chain, sprockets.
 
J_hubbs said:
Im not sure if it could handle the load? 140hp working against 1800ish lbs. What do you guys think? My other concern was how they fail (explode) and the cost of a new case, chain, sprockets.
Click to expand...

chaincase would only have to handle the power it was designed for? there are hundred of turbo sleds pushing 300hp through stock chaincase. This would give you quite a bit of gearing options aswell.
 
I know of a few off road rigs that utilized a chain and gear set to get around drive line angles. Lifting a truck 24" all of a sudden even crazy modified drive shafts don't work. I know the chain and gears they used were borrowed from agriculture/farm applications and hold up to 600 hp. I know there is a wide variety of under drive gear boxes (Atlas or Klune V) and hot rodders use Vendors overdrive units....unsure if they make a under drive. I know some of the older 4x4 trucks use a divorce transfer case that could probably be picked up cheap at a scrap yard....no clue what ratio's they run. Just throwing ideas out there.....
 
A new toy arrived today: Pro Tools "Pro 105HD" tube bender with a 1.75" dia 180 deg die. I also bought the Swag Offroad air over hydraulic conversion. This essentially converts the bender from a rachet manual bender to hydraulic using a Harbor Freight air over hydraulic engine hoist cylinder. This is the real deal for tube bending. It will bend up to .120 wall DOM, Chromoly, and ERW. Let the roll-cage begin.
 
These are the pipes that came on our engine donor sled. I dont know much about the AAEN pipes. What I do know is that they are rough, and would require alot of work. What do you guys think? Ditch them or sand blast, cut, then patch?

They seem like they are a smaller dia than the Haucks I had on a SX600 and the SLPs I had on a Viper.
 
if you put the engine in the way you wanted you would need to use a gear to gear reduction in order to turn the driveshaft the correct direction, as if you used a chain, it would still turn the wrong way. gear to gear will turn opposite of drive input, chain to gear is the same as input.

gear reduction would be a benefit and make the engine have more torq applied to the driveshaft which would be a bonus for the weight of the car.

its an interesting project!
 
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