Correct RPM and top speed for Vmax SX 700?

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rruser

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Milwaukee, Wisconsin
I have a 1997 Vmax SX. I posted a video below. I have a feeling something is not 100% correct with this, but I could be wrong.




I was told I should be more in the 8500rpm range? Also, I seem to run out of gearing (not power) at 90mph. Clutches were both fully serviced a few years back. Could it just be a warn down belt?
 
rruser said:
I have a 1997 Vmax SX. I posted a video below. I have a feeling something is not 100% correct with this, but I could be wrong.




I was told I should be more in the 8500rpm range? Also, I seem to run out of gearing (not power) at 90mph. Clutches were both fully serviced a few years back. Could it just be a warn down belt?
Click to expand...


Max RPM is 8250 to 8300. 8500 is too high and over revving. I see you are hitting almost 9000 RPMs... add some tip weight.
 
Go to the Tech section and look for the clutching specs from Turk, he's recommendations will bring it into the 8300-8400 range and you'll get much better top end. Also helps to set your belt tension correctly. It should be setting up slight flat to 1/16" above the secondary when it's resting. There are shims on the back side of the secondary to adjust that. But most importantly find Turks clutching suggestions and use it.
 
sleddineinar said:
Go to the Tech section and look for the clutching specs from Turk, he's recommendations will bring it into the 8300-8400 range and you'll get much better top end. Also helps to set your belt tension correctly. It should be setting up slight flat to 1/16" above the secondary when it's resting. There are shims on the back side of the secondary to adjust that. But most importantly find Turks clutching suggestions and use it.
Click to expand...



Great, I'll check that out now.

Just so I have a general idea, lets say the clutches are kept 100% stock. Would a new belt and correct tension be something that lowers WOT RPM? I want to make sure I understand the proper maintenance on the stock setup before I make changes to weights and springs.


I'll find out the milage since the last clutch maintenance. I have owned it for 3 years, but I only ride at a few local spots . Around 200 miles a year.
 
What do you have for a belt on it? Yamaha belts are very hard and glaze and slip. Try cleaning the shive face and if the belt looks shiney replace it. An ultimax belt will increase performance as its a softer compound (don't read into that as not as strong) so it grips the clutches better.
 
rruser said:
Great, I'll check that out now.

Just so I have a general idea, lets say the clutches are kept 100% stock. Would a new belt and correct tension be something that lowers WOT RPM? I want to make sure I understand the proper maintenance on the stock setup before I make changes to weights and springs.


I'll find out the milage since the last clutch maintenance. I have owned it for 3 years, but I only ride at a few local spots . Around 200 miles a year.
Click to expand...

It will help, but more than likely you need to add more weight to the tips. The stock clutches are not calibrated correctly, they overrev like crazy. Turk has a great set up for a stock 700.
 
Alight, I found his clutching specs: 51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 or 2 layers removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains


That's a bit above and beyond what I'm looking to get into right now.


I guess I'll start by cleaning the clutch up and checking out the weights. I'm getting mixed reviews. Some people say the stock clutching is fine (when working correctly). When it comes to this sled I'm looking to keep it as stock as possible. I maybe take it out a total of 8 times a year.

PrimarySpring.jpg
 
rruser said:
Alight, I found his clutching specs: 51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 or 2 layers removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains


That's a bit above and beyond what I'm looking to get into right now.


I guess I'll start by cleaning the clutch up and checking out the weights. I'm getting mixed reviews. Some people say the stock clutching is fine (when working correctly). When it comes to this sled I'm looking to keep it as stock as possible. I maybe take it out a total of 8 times a year.

View attachment 57412
Click to expand...


Where are you located?? Maybe fill in your profile location?
 
you have a yellow blue yellow spring in that, you need a white \silver\white spring..you don't have enuff total force!get the right spring!
 
rruser said:
Alight, I found his clutching specs: 51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 or 2 layers removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains


That's a bit above and beyond what I'm looking to get into right now.


I guess I'll start by cleaning the clutch up and checking out the weights. I'm getting mixed reviews. Some people say the stock clutching is fine (when working correctly). When it comes to this sled I'm looking to keep it as stock as possible. I maybe take it out a total of 8 times a year.

View attachment 57412
Click to expand...

I would take the clutch apart and see whats in there, because right off the bat it has a long spring cover on it and a long primary spring, a yellow/green/yellow is 40/123kg, the stock primary spring is a short one and is a white/silver /white and is 35/110kg, so your over rev might/likely be because it has a stronger spring in it and they didnt change the rivets in the weights to compensate, (it will need more tip weight to bring the rpm down). See what weights and rivets are in it, posting pics helps so we can see what you have.
 
Well it looks like I'll have a bit of work to do no matter what then. :o| At this point all I can do is make a total inventory or else who knows where I will end up. I'll take it apart soon and post.
 
Hi there guys it's my first time posting on her I have a 2000 700 mountin max that I'm having some problems with over revving the sled has a fresh rebuild cv tech crank spi moly pistons I have psi triple pipes and stingers stock head and head gaskets k&n pods on it and v force reeds 148.8 main jets it has a 151 doo ported track and in not 100% on the Gearing but I know it's not stock not sure what the secondary is set at or what the helix is pretty sure its stock I have a green spring in the primary and I tried puting a set of srx cam arms that had rivets in bolth holes can arms in total weighed 56 grams I'm certain that it has 4.5 in each hole still I have lots of over rev I have a tto tach on it and the max rpm recall is usually at 9120 I know this is madly way over and I need help slowing this monster down I don't want to screw my new crank up by over reving the s**** out of it please help thanks
 
So time to beat a dead horse.. or clutch. It's going to be winter again so need to work on this #$%&*


Should I just go on a parts site or local dealer and buy the stock (short) spring cover, spring, and weights? I based the list off anything that said STD.. I'm guessing that means Standard/stock?


8BV-17630-11-00 PRIMARY SHEAVE CAP COMP. $62.35 X1
90501-555J9-00 SPRING, COMPRESSION | UR STD $23.02 X1

90261-06019-00 RIVET, COUNTERSUNK (ST13.3MM) | UR STD (INNER TO PIN HOLE) $0.51 X3
90261-06015-00 RIVET, COUNTERSUNK (ST10.3MM) | UR STD (OUTER HOLE) $1.26 X3
 
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Like Mr viper said need to know what weights are in clutch. If you want stock I may have a stock spring and cover I'd swap you. Without knowing what all you have its hard to help tune it
 
eBay may be your best bet for clutch parts to make it right. Don't buy a used spring but weights and covers are fairly plentiful. You might even be able to find a clutch for the price of a new cover from a dealer. The worst you may need to do is change the cover center bushing but that's cheap and easy.
 
Why would you change to the short cover. Just find a Yamaha spring with same as stock specs.
 
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