Need LED bulb suggestion for swap

There is clean D/C power on a 97 SX. The factory rectifier flattens the A/C for the back up alarm. I tried the duel bulb LED on my 97 SX but the out put of the charge coil was not enough. I went to a single LED and am more then happy. I ran the clean D/C to my headlight switch and now it runs perfect.
 
I want to run dual bulbs, as I have already swapped everything over.

Can you tell me which wire gets run where ?
Please keep in mind, electricity is not my strong suit to say the least...
 
Look at my post. https://totallyamaha.net/showthread.php/100228-97-SX-duel-headlght?highlight=duel . The problem I had was there was a high frequency "pulse" in the lights, it was driving me nuts. I went back to a single "Cyclops" 3800 watt. The light output is awesome. There is a BROWN wire with clean D/C that would connect to the backup alarm. Its easy to double check the Brown wire if you set a Meter to D/C and check the output. On the 700SX schematic diagram look at #1(magneto), #2(factory rectifier) and #19 (optional back up alarm).
 
Yamahasrx700 said:
There is clean D/C power on a 97 SX. The factory rectifier flattens the A/C for the back up alarm. I tried the duel bulb LED on my 97 SX but the out put of the charge coil was not enough. I went to a single LED and am more then happy. I ran the clean D/C to my headlight switch and now it runs perfect.
Click to expand...

For my 1999 Venture 600, I did the same as well.

For rear tail light bulb: Left its 1157 Halogen bulb "as is" but do have a 1157 LED 3w/3w bulb as plan B (if needed).

For front head light bulb: Backup Alarm brown wire (which is clean / steady 12 volt DC) to thicker 14 gauge 12 volt wire to handle bar switch's blue wire. Cut switch's factory blue wire (which is 12 volt AC) and capped it off with liquid electrical tape. For its front H4 headlight socket, I then installed a 12 Volt @ 20W DC bulb (rated for Motorcycles). Currently, I have a 12V-24V 30W bulb on order - from Amazon. Was told that 12-24 Volt bulbs have longer life and tolerate more DC volt fluctuations. So far, the 1 x LED @ 20W with 3 Amp inline fuse is working great - for me as well. Future 30W LED bulb should work even better. For visual, see attachment. Note: I've attached picture my "on order" 30W LED bulb (which has more LMs) as well.

Hope this helps others...
 

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Well, i have done the same now, brown wire to switch. Except, I am using (2) 20 watt LEDs as I changed it to a dual bulb headlight.
Hope it works ! Should know in about a week.
 
Hi Murder Yamaha

A few things to keep in mind (if you don't already know).

- Math wise, Watts/volts=Amps. In your case, 2x20(40)/12=3.33 Amps. Fuse size should be 4 (rare size to find) or 5 Amps (common fuse size) will work.

- No too sure if the thin brown wire from factory buzzer alarm can support 4 Amps. Remember that fuse size should always be smaller amps compared to its wire thickness amps rating (to ensure its fuse is its end/end weakest melt point). Might want to double check wire gauge / wire thickness size (for say 4 amps current) of the thin brown wire.

- In reality, LED lights don't use their max listed Watt size. For example, my one extra 35W LED light (on my ATV) only uses max 27 Watts (in real life). I read the one 30W LED H4 bulb (that I previously bought and returned - cause it didn't like 12 AC current) only used a max 27 Watts (when tested on DC source). With this in mind, your listed 2x20W (acting like a single 40W LED light bulb) might be ok using the thin brown wire (used for its reverse buzzer). To validate "real life" Amp (watts) usage of your custom setup, might want to connect a digital multi-meter and do some inline Amp Usage testing (using its 10A setting). For me, think I will stick to a single 1 x LED bulb (rated at max 30W) in the factory hood's light assembly. Thus, leaving extra watts for its battery recharge need.

Hope these items help as well...
 
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Very helpful!
I will check it when I get the sled put back together next week.
Thanks for explaining HOW to test it, as I am a dummy with electrical...lol
I will check it and report my findings.
 
For future testing using digital multi-meter, recommend:

A - Confirm exact volt delivery of the little brown wire (on your specific sled). re: Is that brown wire delivering "DC" at 9V, 12 Volts or 13.8 Volts? This can be done using a Digital Multi-Meter on its DC 20 setting and using its frame ground. When testing, rev engine up/down to confirm if "volts" delivery remains constant. If your sled is steady at 10 volts, best to get LEDs with 9-14 volt ratings. If your sled is 12 volts and rises up to 13.8 volts (which is normal on many auto 12 volt systems), then get LEDs for 12-24 Volts ratings.

B - Confirm your LEDs "real" Amp usage. Remember that real Volts x real Amps = real Watts Usage (on your unique sled). And yes, each sled and each LED bulb is slightly different. To obtain "real" amps usage of your 2x20W LED bulbs, surf video at _https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xMDWzUPk_w (remember to remove the _ at beginning of this URL).

Tips: If your specific sled is steady at 11 volts (from item A), remember Volts delivery (real life) x Amp Usage (from meter) = Watts (real watts being used). For fuse and wire sizes, remember to "round up" to the next available size (with fuse being smaller size / compared to its wire thickness / for fuse to be its weakest melt point). And, remember that each sled's brown wire and each LED bulb(s) are different.


Hope this helps as well...
 
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Hi MURDER YAMAHA

Using my above details, I decided to test my one H4 LED bulb tonight. If wondering, I'm comparing 3 different Motorcycle LEDs (1 at 20W and 2 at 30W) bulbs and will keep one as primary bulb and other as backup bulb (if spare bulb is needed).

For below LED DC 30W bulb for Motorcycles, it is listed as max 30 Watts but I confirmed it only uses 21 Watts. Thus, my 3 Amp inline fuse is large enough. And, its thin brown wire (from factory reverse buzzer) should be thick enough as well. Best of all, NO light flicker with this DC bulb - when using DC volts (instead of factory 12V AC volts).

Wonder about the Watts your 2 x 20W LED bulbs are using?
 

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Rear suspension goes in tomorrow, then button up motor. Will hopefully be able to finally start it by the end of the weekend!
 
Ok, now that headlight are working great, my viper seat has 2 led bulbs, both light up, but only one gets brighter with the brake applied. Any ideas ? Do i need to switch polarity on one of them ? Maybe feed the brown wire to power them as well so it’s using DC also?
 
Sounds like you are feeding 12 volt AC power into your 2 x 12 Volt DC bulbs.

As a suggestion, disconnect the little brown wire going into factory reverse buzzer (which is DC volts). Run a thicker wire from this buzzer wire into its handle bar area - to its factory Low / Hi beam switch area (under the handle bar padding). Snip and cap the factory blue wire (which is AC power) - that goes into the white disconnect plug. Cap the factory blue wire using liquid electrical tape. Take the longer buzzer wire and over-lap connector into an inline fuse holder. Try 4 or 5 amp fuse for testing. And over-lap wire connector the fuse holder output wire to your up side snipped blue wire - that goes into the H/L switch. Remember switch output wires: yellow is high beam and green is low beam. At the front light bulb area, simple Y-Split the yellow wire, Y-Split the Green wire and Y-Split the black wire (which is ground) into each LED DC bulb plug. If above sounds confusing, simply take a blank paper and draw a simple diagram.

To test if you have enough 12 Volt "DC" AMPs flow to both LED bulbs, simply disconnect one LED bulb and try it. Then, do same test with opposite LED bulb. Get one LED bulb working, then add the 2nd LED bulb.

If wondering, my Sled's single LED Bulb (rated at max 30 DC watts) doesn't flicker at idle or when its rear brake handle is pressed. It only flickers when I engage its electrical starter gear - which is normal on LED DC lights (even on auto vehicle LEDs).

Hope this helps.
 
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For wiring diagram you might want to clone (and expand for 2 front LEDs), see below.
 

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Sorry for above. I didn't register your Viper's "seat" lights during my skim reading the 1st time.

For my Venture sled, I left its factory rear tail light's 1 x single Halogen bulb "as is". re: As 1157 halogen bulb. When I replace its 1157 halogen bulb with 1157 LED, it flickers at idle (which means its factory rear is AC volts as well). So, I left it as halogen. Note: I read many times that if one installs LEDs in the tail light, it won't create enough heat. And, its low heat won't melt natural snow spray off its outer cover. Another reason I left its rear tail light as factory. This works for me...
 
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