Long Track SRX Gearing

yamisrx

yamisrx

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Aug 21, 2022
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I have an 02 SRX with a m10 144 skid going under it. I plan to use a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" track on it and I am wondering what gearing and such people would recommend. The suspension was originally under a 2000 SRX that I bought as a parts sled and it had 9 tooth drivers with 22/38 gearing. For some reason the 02 SRX came with 21/38 gearing but it's missing a tooth on the upper so thats no good.

Thanks
Greg
 
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if you swap the drivers to 8 tooth, it is like lowering the gearing 2 teeth. might be ok and you will gain the clearance for the taller lug track between drivers and front cooler.
 
Maim said:
if you swap the drivers to 8 tooth, it is like lowering the gearing 2 teeth. might be ok and you will gain the clearance for the taller lug track between drivers and front cooler.
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If I ran 8 tooth drivers and the 22/38 combo would that get too low? I don't want to loose all my top end but I don't need it to do over 100 mph either.
 
it will most likely loose 5-10 mph off of top end from smaller drivers based on other riders that had done that for stud clearance on more agressive tracks. it should still hit the 100 mph mark with the 144" track. it can always be geared up later but i have used this trick on other sleds instead of re gearing when going from short to long tracks.
 
Mathematically there is an 11% difference in gearing between 8 and 9 tooth drivers. Easy to convert by calculating the current gear ratio and compensating for the 11% with new gears for the smaller drivers. Somewhere I have a conversion chart but its been some time since I seen it. What kind of riding are you wanting to do? Gear and clutch for that style. I will look for that chart as well as a calculator
 
In the past I installed 144" tracks on our two SXs and also on the 2002 SRX.
Here's my recommendations:
-install 8 tooth extroverts [will give you adequate front heat exchanger clearance and allow looser track tension]
-I would use 22/38 gearing for 1 1/2 " track with 8 tooth drivers gives @ 94 mph at 8500 rpm
-I would use 23/38 gearing for a 1 1/4 inch track with 8 tooth drivers gives @ 98 mph at 8500 rpm [my preferred setup]
JM.02c
 
black dog said:
Mathematically there is an 11% difference in gearing between 8 and 9 tooth drivers. Easy to convert by calculating the current gear ratio and compensating for the 11% with new gears for the smaller drivers. Somewhere I have a conversion chart but its been some time since I seen it. What kind of riding are you wanting to do? Gear and clutch for that style. I will look for that chart as well as a calculator
Click to expand...
My riding inlcudes trail, some off trail where I can find it in the midwest, and a fair amount of ditch riding in my local area. I like to play in the powder where I can but most of my riding will be in South Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. Trying to have the machine be good all around as a crossover sled. Clutching is stock right now. 22/38 gears, 9 tooth drivers, and 1 1/2" track as of right now.
 
yamisrx said:
My riding inlcudes trail, some off trail where I can find it in the midwest, and a fair amount of ditch riding in my local area. I like to play in the powder where I can but most of my riding will be in South Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. Trying to have the machine be good all around as a crossover sled. Clutching is stock right now. 22/38 gears, 9 tooth drivers, and 1 1/2" track as of right now.
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I would think that 1 1/2 inch track is a very tight fit with 9 tooth drivers but obviously in your case doable.
22/38 with 9 tooth drivers gives you a theoretical top speed of 105mph.
We have a piped/ported 700 SX with a 1 1/2 " 144" Cross over track, 8 tooth drivers, and 22/38 gears that works very well in pretty well all cross over conditions.
 
sideshowBob said:
In the past I installed 144" tracks on our two SXs and also on the 2002 SRX.
Here's my recommendations:
-install 8 tooth extroverts [will give you adequate front heat exchanger clearance and allow looser track tension]
-I would use 22/38 gearing for 1 1/2 " track with 8 tooth drivers gives @ 94 mph at 8500 rpm
-I would use 23/38 gearing for a 1 1/4 inch track with 8 tooth drivers gives @ 98 mph at 8500 rpm [my preferred setup]
JM.02c
Click to expand...
good info! I currently have a track with every third window closed. I am debating opening up the windows and I have read on other posts I may need to fully clip the track to prevent false DCS activation on the 02 SRX.
 
yamisrx said:
good info! I currently have a track with every third window closed. I am debating opening up the windows and I have read on other posts I may need to fully clip the track to prevent false DCS activation on the 02 SRX.
Click to expand...
IMO the every 3rd window closed tracks were not a bad concept but in practice they were inferior to the fully clipped tracks.
 
sideshowBob said:
I would think that 1 1/2 inch track is a very tight fit with 9 tooth drivers but obviously in your case doable.
22/38 with 9 tooth drivers gives you a theoretical top speed of 105mph.
We have a piped/ported 700 SX with a 1 1/2 " 144" Cross over track, 8 tooth drivers, and 22/38 gears that works very well in pretty well all cross over conditions.
Click to expand...
I haven't installed the track yet but I'm getting close. I cut the track down initially from 2" to roughly 1 1/2" trying to make clearance for the stock drivers but I don't know if it's enough. I also thought 1 1/2 will work better on trail and help save the slides. Is there any down side to going to a 8 tooth driver?
 
yamisrx said:
I haven't installed the track yet but I'm getting close. I cut the track down initially from 2" to roughly 1 1/2" trying to make clearance for the stock drivers but I don't know if it's enough. I also thought 1 1/2 will work better on trail and help save the slides. Is there any down side to going to a 8 tooth driver?
Click to expand...
8 tooth drivers and their smaller size would be slightly less efficient [only a real concern for radar runs ect].
8 tooth drivers with their smaller diameter also have a bit less track contact so they can tend to ratchet a bit more and need more track tension.
If you install 8 tooth extroverts track ratcheting won't be an issue.
 
sideshowBob said:
8 tooth drivers and their smaller size would be slightly less efficient [only a real concern for radar runs ect].
8 tooth drivers with their smaller diameter also have a bit less track contact so they can tend to ratchet a bit more and need more track tension.
If you install 8 tooth extroverts track ratcheting won't be an issue.
Click to expand...
I have already opened my track windows and I ordered clips and the tool. My cheap self is wanting to run the gears I have 22/38 and the 9 tooth drivers. Is that a bad idea? Will I wish it was geared down more with the 144? It's cut to roughly 1 1/2" lug right now but I could trim it down more if needed. I removed the guards and tunnel protectors and it looked like the 98 mountain srx ran 9 tooth drivers with 1 1/2" track but it didn't have any guards and I'm not sure it had a front heat exchanger.
 
Maim said:
they all have the front heat exchanger. you can try it but odds are it will lugg the motor on take off from too much load.
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I couldn't find a front heat exchanger on the parts fish so I wasn't sure. I wonder if I should buy a used drive shaft from a mountain max with 8 tooth drivers and just swap out the outer two wheels for extroverts?
 
sideshowBob said:
If you use wahl's extroverts you only need a pair of their drivers and can leave all the other ones off the driveshaft...saves some weight
Click to expand...
The 2.52 8 tooth 1 1/16" shaft drivers show currently out of stock. I'm going to see if anyone has them on hand somewhere. If I can't get 8 tooth now what gearing should I run with 9 tooths?
 
sideshowBob said:
20/38 should work
Click to expand...
I was able to have my local dealer locate some wahl 8 tooth extrovert drivers from one of their suppliers Friday so should see them next week. Are there any special methods to swapping them or just press the old off and press on the new?
 
Getting the extroverts positioned properly on the shaft is critical....they don't go in the same place as the old ones as they now drive and are positioned on the center of the track windows. Take measurements and determine where they should go before removing the old drivers.
 
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