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Thread: SXVenom Build - Running Log

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  1. #1

    Default SXVenom Build - Running Log

    I figured it's finally time to make a log for my sled. It's a 2004 SXVenom that just cracked 3,000 miles. I believe I'm the 3rd owner, SRXXX actually helped me getting it by linking me to the craigslist ad. First owner stored it outside for some time, front trailing arms and rods have rust, as does the pipe.

    Haven't done much to it since then besides basic maintenance and a black windshield. First photos are with the windshield that came with it, a very odd color that looked more purple than blue.
    This is from pre-season this year. I originally planned on just checking the reed petals and stoppers when I took the carb off for cleaning to see how they looked. I ended up buying Boyesen rage cage blocks (stock were actually in good condition still). I've used Boyesen products on my yz125 and liked them. Carb boots almost looked like they had some sort of mold growing on them . A few photos of the stock blocks vs the Boyesen.

    Took air box totally apart and cleaned it.
    Found the ignition coil bracket was cracked all the way through. Ordered a new one but hasn't come in yet.
    Carbs all cleaned and put back together with allen head bolts for the float bowls. Had to use an impact driver to get some of the stock screws off (also weren't all matching so someone else must have stripped out the phillips head before).
    Last edited by Yzed608; 02-11-2017 at 11:40 AM.

  2. #2


    Took both clutches off and cleaned them thoroughly. Was having problems with overrev to around 8900 previously, but never took them totally apart to clean. Wanted to make sure they were in good condition before messing with weights. 400 grit on the sheave surfaces worked good. I did misread the manual and changed the spring wrap to 70* from 80* (wording was "80* (SXV60ER/SXV60/VT60 for Europe), 70* (VT60 for U.S.A./Canada)"). I was thinking 80* was all models Europe... Did get to ride it after this and they seemed to drop down to around 8650 or so, I know you're not supposed to adjust shift rpm from the secondary (as I did this accidentally) but I didn't notice any negative side effects with shifting so I think I'll leave it for now.
    When cleaning the belly pan area felt something which I thought was a rubber piece off of an old gas can or something. Got it out and it ended being an acorn, obviously it was stored outside!
    When I went to install the reed cages they weren't fitting correctly. First thought was they were hitting somewhere further in the cases. I took one side of the petals out to be able to see down into the cases with them in, and to my surprise they sat flush... Put the petal bracket back on and they still fit. Ended up the width of the reed petals was enough to make the petal bracket hit the cases on the edges. Ended up filing down the corners on each side and they all ended up fitting. Reed spacers would have prevented this I believe.

  3. #3


    Photo of it back together before the first ride this year. Dumb trail pass sticker required on the windshield is at least blue this year.
    Bought some aluminum bodied shocks from a 2002 Viper off ebay. Pretty good condition, shafts have no marks, just one nick on the end of one of them. Cleaned up better than I thought they would (before/after photos). Took ugly warning stickers off, used some light sand paper to get rid of the dirt/faded areas where you could see the sticker outline. Plan is to send them to Hygear for a rebuild/revalve and then paint the springs white. No clue what I want to do with the rear, as those are both steel bodied too. I'm more concerned with weight back there, original thoughts were for a monoshock but I saw the post in the Darth Viper build thread that it's still 80lbs. I'd spring (hah get it) for a M10 but not a fan of how the track's tension doesn't stay constant throughout motion.

    I also plan to repaint the front suspension parts in blue, and maybe 2001 trailing arm stickers, always thought those looked cool. Also want to get the pipe and silencer ceramic coated.

    Bought a set of 7/8" to 1 1/8" bar adapters, plan on putting the stock Pro Taper bars from my yz125 on it. My left grip is wearing down on the outside because my hand is always half off the bar trying to lean in left corners. The Pro Tapers are wider so hopefully should help with this. Have Cycra handguards to put on too.

    Tried buying a set of the trailing arm caps from Bender, but they said they're out of stock and refunded me.
    Last edited by Yzed608; 02-11-2017 at 11:38 AM.

  4. #4


    Does anyone know if there is a spec for free length on the shock springs? I'm guessing there isn't but just checking.

  5. #5
    VIP Lifetime Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009

    1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.


    02 Viper front springs - 264mm free length

  6. #6


    Thank you! Does it list a tolerance too?

  7. #7
    VIP Lifetime Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009


    You're welcome. No tolerance listed.

  8. #8


    Same seller I got the front shocks from listed the rear shocks, I'm thinking from the same sled. Bought those, now all 4 shocks will be aluminum bodied and rebuildable. Haven't sent the fronts off to Hygear yet after cleaning, will wait until I get the rears and clean those. Probably have all 4 springs powdercoated white. Also found some Yamaha trailing arm caps on ebay (really beginning to like this site ) for $17. They're silver so I'm thinking when the trailing arms get painted blue so will these.

    Going to re-read some of BTV's posts about bearings in the skid shocks, since my stock skid has the bushings in the rear shock they will need to be converted to bearings, plus I'd like to have the center shock bearings vs. bushings.
    On a side note it's been in the 50's this weekend. Don't know what the future holds this season, but I like riding sleds enough that the work/time/money put into it is worthwhile the limited amount of use.

    The photos here are what the seller posted, I'll update after getting them and cleaning.

    In the meantime
    $_1.jpgs-l1600 (1).jpgs-l1600.jpg

  9. #9


    So it looks like the season is done here, trails in northern Oconto county closing tomorrow for the season already. Only got to ride it once this year, lets hope next year brings stable cold temps and snow. Really sucks having it get cold but not stay that way...

    The trailing arm caps I bought had the wrong photo listed on the posting, actual part number is for some cap on a Nytro...
    They looked like they could still possibly work, but those tabs were larger than the hole in the trailing arm, so I ground them off.
    They are a little loose in the hole, and the outer diameter is a little large but they should still work, might just silicone them in.

    The shocks came in and the bodies themselves seem in good condition, just were dirty. Pretty sure these came off of the same sled as the fronts I bought as it was the same seller.
    Front skid shock with the bushings were really worn out, wondering how many miles are on these. Seeing this is definitely a good showcase for changing it to a bearing setup.

    They got the same cleaning treatment as the fronts did. Removed all bushings and bearings as I plan on replacing them with new bearings in both. Last shot is all 4 new to me shocks.

    Now it's time to try to get these off to Hygear for rebuild and revalve, and get my parts list together. Plan on changing the side arms to ones from a Viper to have those bearings too, and replace the remaining bushings in the skid. Also plan on adding a 4th wheel kit.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Open Mod roudyroy1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    ontario GTA


    those bearings in the center shock really make a difference. i would highly recommend doing the lower w arm mounts and tapping grease fitting into those pivots. makes a night and day difference.
    a wise man from canada once told me
    "there are only 2 types of sleds. 2 STROKES and 4 JOKES" !!!

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