SXVenom Build - Running Log

[Yzed608]

I figured it's finally time to make a log for my sled. It's a 2004 SXVenom that just cracked 3,000 miles. I believe I'm the 3rd owner, SRXXX actually helped me getting it by linking me to the craigslist ad. First owner stored it outside for some time, front trailing arms and rods have rust, as does the pipe.

Haven't done much to it since then besides basic maintenance and a black windshield. First photos are with the windshield that came with it, a very odd color that looked more purple than blue.

This is from pre-season this year. I originally planned on just checking the reed petals and stoppers when I took the carb off for cleaning to see how they looked. I ended up buying Boyesen rage cage blocks (stock were actually in good condition still). I've used Boyesen products on my yz125 and liked them. Carb boots almost looked like they had some sort of mold growing on them . A few photos of the stock blocks vs the Boyesen.



Took air box totally apart and cleaned it.

Found the ignition coil bracket was cracked all the way through. Ordered a new one but hasn't come in yet.

Carbs all cleaned and put back together with allen head bolts for the float bowls. Had to use an impact driver to get some of the stock screws off (also weren't all matching so someone else must have stripped out the phillips head before).

 

[Yzed608]

Took both clutches off and cleaned them thoroughly. Was having problems with overrev to around 8900 previously, but never took them totally apart to clean. Wanted to make sure they were in good condition before messing with weights. 400 grit on the sheave surfaces worked good. I did misread the manual and changed the spring wrap to 70* from 80* (wording was "80* (SXV60ER/SXV60/VT60 for Europe), 70* (VT60 for U.S.A./Canada)"). I was thinking 80* was all models Europe... Did get to ride it after this and they seemed to drop down to around 8650 or so, I know you're not supposed to adjust shift rpm from the secondary (as I did this accidentally) but I didn't notice any negative side effects with shifting so I think I'll leave it for now.

When cleaning the belly pan area felt something which I thought was a rubber piece off of an old gas can or something. Got it out and it ended being an acorn, obviously it was stored outside!

When I went to install the reed cages they weren't fitting correctly. First thought was they were hitting somewhere further in the cases. I took one side of the petals out to be able to see down into the cases with them in, and to my surprise they sat flush... Put the petal bracket back on and they still fit. Ended up the width of the reed petals was enough to make the petal bracket hit the cases on the edges. Ended up filing down the corners on each side and they all ended up fitting. Reed spacers would have prevented this I believe.

 

[Yzed608]

Photo of it back together before the first ride this year. Dumb trail pass sticker required on the windshield is at least blue this year.

Bought some aluminum bodied shocks from a 2002 Viper off ebay. Pretty good condition, shafts have no marks, just one nick on the end of one of them. Cleaned up better than I thought they would (before/after photos). Took ugly warning stickers off, used some light sand paper to get rid of the dirt/faded areas where you could see the sticker outline. Plan is to send them to Hygear for a rebuild/revalve and then paint the springs white. No clue what I want to do with the rear, as those are both steel bodied too. I'm more concerned with weight back there, original thoughts were for a monoshock but I saw the post in the Darth Viper build thread that it's still 80lbs. I'd spring (hah get it) for a M10 but not a fan of how the track's tension doesn't stay constant throughout motion.


I also plan to repaint the front suspension parts in blue, and maybe 2001 trailing arm stickers, always thought those looked cool. Also want to get the pipe and silencer ceramic coated.

Bought a set of 7/8" to 1 1/8" bar adapters, plan on putting the stock Pro Taper bars from my yz125 on it. My left grip is wearing down on the outside because my hand is always half off the bar trying to lean in left corners. The Pro Tapers are wider so hopefully should help with this. Have Cycra handguards to put on too.

Tried buying a set of the trailing arm caps from Bender, but they said they're out of stock and refunded me.

 

[Yzed608]

Does anyone know if there is a spec for free length on the shock springs? I'm guessing there isn't but just checking.

 

[srx700c]

02 Viper front springs - 264mm free length

 

[Yzed608]

Thank you! Does it list a tolerance too?

 

[srx700c]

You're welcome. No tolerance listed.

 

[Yzed608]

Same seller I got the front shocks from listed the rear shocks, I'm thinking from the same sled. Bought those, now all 4 shocks will be aluminum bodied and rebuildable. Haven't sent the fronts off to Hygear yet after cleaning, will wait until I get the rears and clean those. Probably have all 4 springs powdercoated white. Also found some Yamaha trailing arm caps on ebay (really beginning to like this site ) for $17. They're silver so I'm thinking when the trailing arms get painted blue so will these.

Going to re-read some of BTV's posts about bearings in the skid shocks, since my stock skid has the bushings in the rear shock they will need to be converted to bearings, plus I'd like to have the center shock bearings vs. bushings.
On a side note it's been in the 50's this weekend. Don't know what the future holds this season, but I like riding sleds enough that the work/time/money put into it is worthwhile the limited amount of use.

The photos here are what the seller posted, I'll update after getting them and cleaning.

In the meantime

 

[Yzed608]

So it looks like the season is done here, trails in northern Oconto county closing tomorrow for the season already. Only got to ride it once this year, lets hope next year brings stable cold temps and snow. Really sucks having it get cold but not stay that way...

The trailing arm caps I bought had the wrong photo listed on the posting, actual part number is for some cap on a Nytro...

They looked like they could still possibly work, but those tabs were larger than the hole in the trailing arm, so I ground them off.

They are a little loose in the hole, and the outer diameter is a little large but they should still work, might just silicone them in.

The shocks came in and the bodies themselves seem in good condition, just were dirty. Pretty sure these came off of the same sled as the fronts I bought as it was the same seller.

Front skid shock with the bushings were really worn out, wondering how many miles are on these. Seeing this is definitely a good showcase for changing it to a bearing setup.


They got the same cleaning treatment as the fronts did. Removed all bushings and bearings as I plan on replacing them with new bearings in both. Last shot is all 4 new to me shocks.


Now it's time to try to get these off to Hygear for rebuild and revalve, and get my parts list together. Plan on changing the side arms to ones from a Viper to have those bearings too, and replace the remaining bushings in the skid. Also plan on adding a 4th wheel kit.

 

[roudyroy1]

those bearings in the center shock really make a difference. i would highly recommend doing the lower w arm mounts and tapping grease fitting into those pivots. makes a night and day difference.

 

[Yzed608]

Good to hear the bearings in that center shock work well . Do you mean new bushings in the lower W arm mounts, or is there a way to get bearings in there too?

 

[roudyroy1]

yes bushings, i almost guarantee that they have turned to dust. drill and tap grease fitting into the lower mounts. it will make them last alot longer, then replace with new bushings and shim them if necessary

 

[Yzed608]

Well I didn't work on this nearly as much as I wanted this year. I should be getting the rebuilt shocks back from Hygear tomorrow. I also bought a 3" block riser to get the height back when I put the MX bars on. Should end up around 1/2" taller than stock bars. Powermadd suggests cutting the nub off of the stock lower bar clamp so it sits flush on the riser, think I'm just going to put the riser on the drill press and drill a hole down for the bar clamp to sit into instead. I'd rather keep the stock components unmodified.

 

[super1c]

I cut that nub off all my sled with risers. Not needed and never was a problem.

 

[Yzed608]

Trying to put the Pro Taper 7/8"-1 1/8" adapters on my sled with a 3" block riser from Powermadd. I cannot find the correct length (115mm) button head socket cap screws to make this possible... Regular socket cap screws will not work as the head is too large and the bars will not sit flush in the adapter. The button heads can only work, but I can not find any in 115mm length. Anyone know of any vendor?

 

[Yzed608]

Here's some photos if it helps. You can see the setup I'm trying to do, it'll be the stock stem/steering post, to the 3" riser, to the stock lower clamp, adapter, bars, then upper clamp to adapter. First photo shows a 110mm regular socket cap screw (too short, need 115mm) for length, second shows why the same one will not work (will hit bar), and last shows the difference in what I need (left) vs. the same previous bolt.

I really didn't think it would be this find to find some bolts, I can't be the first person to do this...

 

[Yzed608]

Found some in 120mm, but I'm not paying $190 for 100 bolts when I need 4. http://products.coburnmyers.com/item/metric/button-head-socket-cap-screws-iso-7380/8c120kbc-12-9

 

[A couple of bucks]

$1.86/pcs

https://www.fastenal.com/products?r=~%7Ccategoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:%22600039%20Sockets%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:%22600040%20Socket%20Cap%20Screws%22%7C~%20~%7Csattr01:%5EMetric$%7C~%20~%7Csattr05:%5E120mm$%7C~&resultsPerPage=48

 

[Yzed608]

Thanks bucks. I ended up putting a 7/8" bar on it instead and didn't bother with the whole adapter. It's a Pro Taper bar RM bend. Put OEM grips on it but needed an extension between both sides. My dad used to work in shops and happened to have the right connections, I believe what is used here was from a 70's bike. Also put some Cycra hand guards on it, needed to bend the brackets so they wouldn't hit the windshield so easy. Still rub it a little but are in a good position I think. Fired it up tonight and sounds good, just currently dealing with a TORS issue: https://totallyamaha.net/showthread.php/105157-Idle-Adjustment-TORS-Mount

 

[Yzed608]

Did some local riding this weekend with a friend. Within the last mile back to the trucks today I hit something buried in the snow that I didn't see hard enough to bend my right trailing arm. Wasn't going very fast, maybe 20 or so, hit hard enough to rip the bars out of my hands... Was hoping Kimpex made a replacement but looks like they only make them for the short spindle sleds...

Nothing seems to be binding, I can still wiggle the tie rod around even. I'll keep it on for the rest of the year then see what I want to do. OEM pricing is about $350...




Edit: Found this, never heard of Extreme Sport Parts, but it looks pretty damn close to OEM. Might be worth trying it out. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Sno...ash=item3f5ac1c375:g:SEYAAOSw-W5UxyQl&vxp=mtr