need setup for 660' cpr ciper

sxrsist

sxrsist

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Jun 25, 2003
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had to put my pipes on to settle some scores out there while i was running stock,I HATE LOOSING,seems to be what you do alot with stock viper,i have cpr pipes, head mod and heavy hitters, jeff said to go down to 20-40 gearing but i think its alittle steep, i went to 22-40, just wondering a good setup with the heavy hitters,jeff still says the 47 stck helix,hope i can get this thing to perform,i gat a rev 800 to make into doo poo
 
Ace The hitters, they blow for top speed. You can't run anything steeper than a 47 helix final angle. And they only work with a straight cut helix. they are ok for 660, but 1000 they run out of legs. They will shift out with the gearing he's talking about, but you can't load down the motor at top speed with them they just don't have enough force up top to run a reduced helix angle, stiff secondary spring combo. load the Sh^T out of the tip and crank up the secondary twist will help reduce slip. I have the black secondary spring @ 80*-90* depending on conditions.
 
yea a lot of tip weight with a low finish angle should provide a lot of top speed
 
The heavy hitters have lot's of topend I spent a whole winter speed running everyweekend and alot of testing they where the fastest weight out of about 10 styles and you can also use multi angle helixes.20/40 is right about what you want for 660 drags or are you doing 660 radar runs.
 
im not running picks,snow drags, 1 1/4, i think 20-40 will blow out the back, what setup you recomend me to try pro, thanks
 
IMO 20-40 is a bit low for 660'. I tend to go with a little taller gearing for drags then some guy's use, but it works well for me. For 660' I would shoot for around 1.90.

Lighter sled, more horsepower, sloppy snow (poor traction) = taller gearing
heavy sled , less horsepower, with sticky snow (good traction) = lower gearing
 
Mtnviper said:
IMO 20-40 is a bit low for 660'. I tend to go with a little taller gearing for drags then some guy's use, but it works well for me. For 660' I would shoot for around 1.90.

Lighter sled, more horsepower, sloppy snow (poor traction) = taller gearing
heavy sled , less horsepower, with sticky snow (good traction) = lower gearing
Click to expand...

You took the words right out of my mouth! Snow drags are about traction ;)!
 
Pro, yea you can run a multi angle helix with the hitters but the whole concept of the weight is a very agressive starting profile with alot of heal weight, then a tapering off of the profile and very little tip weight. That does not work well with steep finish angles. As you said your gearing is 20-40 and it will work very well with that gearing. Try to get a set of 23-38 gears to full shift out, or even close. Ain't gonna happen. 8dn-20's work better because you can add weight up closer to the tip than the hitters. I guess i have to say hitters would work well in 1000 ft. but not for lake blasting. Straight force weights need more helix spread, curved force weights need less helix spread. Right? What gearing do you guys run for 1000FT, average traction, with 160 horse machine? 23-40?
 
vipertripplexxx said:
What gearing do you guys run for 1000FT, average traction, with 160 horse machine? 23-40?
Click to expand...

22/38 w/8-tooth drivers in my 136" Viper ER, My buddy that goes 150 lbs still runs the same stock gears & 9-tooth drivers in his 136" Viper ER & runs real strong. Last night I let him use my primary setup with Heel Clickers & his stock secondary with a Advantage helix to run a guy who he beat earlier this season by a sled or two while he was running the stock weights & a TEAM roller on the Viper. The guy called him out because he just spent a bunch of money & got his Mach 1 with a paddle track back from one of the go fast Doo guys up here who said he was going to eat the little ol Viper ER.... It did not happen! @ 200' the Viper had 3 sleds on him & the distance just grew from there untill they ran out of room.

I've found when you get you gearing set for full shift on the primary you will be hurting for traction most of the time, Dont get me wrong because some days the sled with flat out rock but then there are other days it feels fast as heck but all its doing is spinning the track. Load the motor to get the sled pull out of the hole & then use the triple triple power to get it to pull the MPH on the big end. I like to come out of the hole @ 8600-8700 rpms to take advantage of the Vipers timing advance to build heat in the motor & then have 8800-8900 rpm around 5-600'. So far its worked real well for me against all kinds of sleds. ;)!

#1 thing that need to be done is keep the clutch faces clean with a scotch pad! Very very important on the good running sleds imo.
 
you have to remember with pipes your gear ratio is higher from the higher rpm's.Most people forget about that.
This isn't correct but an example
20-40 gearing at 8500 rpm's top speed 95mph
20-40 gearing 9100 rpm's top speed 102 mph.
This isn't correct just an example.
 
Bushman, I see we are on the same page!
Many times I have used the same gearing when racing my sled stock as I do with pipes. Because it has more HP and is faster. Using pro116's example is a good way to explain it. With the added horsepower the sled is now capable of achieving 102 mph in the same distance that you only able to run 95 in stock form.
IMO, if you gear down because of the added rpm's, then you are not taking full advantage of the added horsepower. This could also limit the trap speed to the same 95 mph. Sure you may be able to get to 95 mph a little quicker if traction is good (which of course is very important). However if the guy your running against is doing 102 mph it may not be enough. Seen it happen more than once!
The old magic marker method on the primary still works pretty good. I just keep throwing more clutch and gear at it untill it wont take anymore.
 
Milti angle helix's

I'm running a 50/40 Dalton helix with my 780 Viper and HH weights at Turk's recomendation. It takes a lot of tip weight but I think it works well. Still spins a lot off the start. I'm going to gear it tall to try to get rid of some of that. Any comments?

Madmatt
 
Madmatt said:
I'm running a 50/40 Dalton helix with my 780 Viper and HH weights at Turk's recomendation. It takes a lot of tip weight but I think it works well. Still spins a lot off the start. I'm going to gear it tall to try to get rid of some of that. Any comments?

Madmatt
Click to expand...

We still talking 1000' snow drags but works great on the trail?
If we are pull out the tip weight & load the heel & center with the tip open. I have two primarys one running Heel Clickers & the other using the Heavy Hitters both loaded the same heavy on the bottom & both work very well for riding & racing on the snow. Think of where your clutch weight is on the roller & where you belt is on the clutch face (Most of the time its less than 3/4 shift), Grip the belt on the bottom end & the sled will feel slower but be much quicker. The 780 has a lot of *** on the bottom & likes to be loaded!
 
thanks xxx i think 108 will be fast enough,i was out last night and we got lots of traction right now, i could use more engagement then the spring has in jeffs kit,mine has no paint on it, any suggestions
 
16mm rollers give about 900 rpm's, and flatten out the shift curve a little. 4900 on my vip. You may need to add some weight in the middle. I'm guessing 15.6 would do about 500-600 rpm.
 
Pro, yea you can run a multi angle helix with the hitters but the whole concept of the weight is a very agressive starting profile with alot of heal weight, then a tapering off of the profile and very little tip weight. That does not work well with steep finish angles. As you said your gearing is 20-40 and it will work very well with that gearing. Try to get a set of 23-38 gears to full shift out, or even close. Ain't gonna happen. 8dn-20's work better because you can add weight up closer to the tip than the hitters. I guess i have to say hitters would work well in 1000 ft. but not for lake blasting. Straight force weights need more helix spread, curved force weights need less helix spread. Right? What gearing do you guys run for 1000FT, average traction, with 160 horse machine? 23-40?
Click to expand...
So what you are saying is Polaris's won't pull on the big end using 10 series weights and multis? Heavy hitters and the Polaris 10 series are almost identical except the HH can be loaded in 3 different areas of the shift curve. You must be confused with Heel Clickers.............SRXtreme
 
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