I'm probably unusual, but correcting the bugs is part of ownership I enjoy.
Well, I made some progress today. I finally got some dollies and moved my sled from the trailer into the garage.
I was happy to find there was no mouse nest in the air box, compression test was 140+ psi on all 3 cylinders (cold engine), fluids looks good, and the belt sheeve didn't need any adjustment.
I removed the battery and exhaust to get access to chain case drain plug, only to realize I didn't have to.
I do have one question. I removed the air box completely. When looking at it, there are 6 holes, maybe 1/4" or 5mm in diameter, on the very bottom of the air box. Is this normal? There's nothing that would filter the air that comes in through these holes.
After a fluid change, I will be borrowing a lift to do a suspension lube.
I was happy to find there was no mouse nest in the air box, compression test was 140+ psi on all 3 cylinders (cold engine), fluids looks good, and the belt sheeve didn't need any adjustment.
I removed the battery and exhaust to get access to chain case drain plug, only to realize I didn't have to.
I do have one question. I removed the air box completely. When looking at it, there are 6 holes, maybe 1/4" or 5mm in diameter, on the very bottom of the air box. Is this normal? There's nothing that would filter the air that comes in through these holes.
After a fluid change, I will be borrowing a lift to do a suspension lube.
Vincent
New member
It is normal. Those are drains. these sleds don't have air filters. Even the spongy stuff at the top is only to stop snow from entering the air box.
yamahamark
Member
Yes that's normal. While you got the air box of check the carb boots for any crack. Putting the air box back on is the fun part..
sleddineinar
VIP Member
The easiest way to put the airbox back in, is to take the airbox apart, install the bottom first, then you can get all the boots on easily, and once you have the carb boots secure, put the airbox back together.
Thanks, that's what I hoped was the procedure.
Things went fairly easy tonight, slow and steady. What I accomplished tonight; carb all cleaned and jetting corrected, airbox re-installed, choke and throttle cables adjusted correctly, and TORS reconnected.
What I learned; how to turn off the carb heaters (I didn't spill too much anti freeze), the PO had the main jets in cylinders 1 and 3 reversed, and the TORS was disconnected. I don't know if the TORS was causing a problem with the PO, but after reading a few horror stories about sleds running away without the TORS, I figured I'd be safer with it connected.
What I learned; how to turn off the carb heaters (I didn't spill too much anti freeze), the PO had the main jets in cylinders 1 and 3 reversed, and the TORS was disconnected. I don't know if the TORS was causing a problem with the PO, but after reading a few horror stories about sleds running away without the TORS, I figured I'd be safer with it connected.
yamahamark
Member
Yes safer with it connected. You'll only have a problem with it if you don't have enough slack in the cable. It's a nice safety feature.
Some guys just disconnect the tors and run a teather. I did the same on my 97 vmax I grew tired of getting the cable right. I adjusted it at least once a week..
Slow and steady wins the race. Don't rush it and it will all work great.. Only rush when the snow starts to fall. LOL...
Some guys just disconnect the tors and run a teather. I did the same on my 97 vmax I grew tired of getting the cable right. I adjusted it at least once a week..
Slow and steady wins the race. Don't rush it and it will all work great.. Only rush when the snow starts to fall. LOL...
I have a question about the oil pump. Where does the oil get injected? Directly into the crank/bottom end? I didn't see any oil lines on the carbs or intake boots.
yamahamark
Member
The oil gets injected into the fuel pump. From their it mixes and goes to the carbs..
Thanks. I watched a video on mikuni carb cleaning, but it was for a Polaris. On that particular sled, the oil line connected to the carbs. I just wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything. The only other oil injection system I'm familiar with is Suzuki or Yamaha dirt bikes and they inject either to the bottom of the crank or the carb boot closest to the cylinder.
I have another question. I've read some other threads about heat exchanger or tunnel damage when running studs without protection. My sled was studded, but no protection. If I remove my studs, is it OK to run a track that was drilled for studs?
Vincent
New member
Yes it's OK.
yamahamark
Member
It's ok and the track will last longer with out the studs.
I'm not a fan of studs for trail riding. Just a good paddle track..
I'm not a fan of studs for trail riding. Just a good paddle track..
I got the left side front suspension serviced. It was pretty dry. I added some .0025" shim stock on a few bushing to take out any slop. One thing I did notice. With the front end of the sled hanging in the air, the stabilizer bar just rattles about. Is this normal?
yamahamark
Member
Yes and No. It depends on the rider some run them tight some run loose and some take them off.
Being loose one of the previous owners most likely did some off trail riding.
Being loose one of the previous owners most likely did some off trail riding.
I plan to leave them alone, but how do you adjust them? I'm looking at an on-line parts diagram and it's not obvious to me. It looks like the stabilizer bar fits into a square plug ( I'm assuming rubber or plastic) that fits into another piece riveted to the frame.
yamahamark
Member
Not positive but I think it's just different slides and bushing to make it tighter or loser. I would leave it where it is jus in case you decide to go off trail.
I ride more off then on so I just take mine off..
I ride more off then on so I just take mine off..
there is no adjustment. the bar goes through under the engine and there is a "dog bone" connector on each side that completes the circuit. the bushings can wear and add some slop, but usually wont affect performance, much.
on that assembly, you have a two plastic "lock" pieces that encapsulate the stabilizer as it goes through the bulkhead that can oblong out. pain to change out as they are held in place by 4 rivets into the bulkhead with a bracket on each side. 3 of the rivets are easily accessible, 1 isnt.
you cant easily remove the bar and put it back in, it just doesnt happen that way. its in or out, for the most part. you can however unbolt the bar from one of the dog bones and let it flop. imagine that 1/2" diameter bar flapping around your steering, and think that one through.
a little bit of play is normal. if you feel yours is excessive, look at the dog bones(rubber with a metal collar where the bolts go) and then consider swapping out the plastic blocks with new. i have several of those plastic pieces along with dog bones if needed.
on that assembly, you have a two plastic "lock" pieces that encapsulate the stabilizer as it goes through the bulkhead that can oblong out. pain to change out as they are held in place by 4 rivets into the bulkhead with a bracket on each side. 3 of the rivets are easily accessible, 1 isnt.
you cant easily remove the bar and put it back in, it just doesnt happen that way. its in or out, for the most part. you can however unbolt the bar from one of the dog bones and let it flop. imagine that 1/2" diameter bar flapping around your steering, and think that one through.
a little bit of play is normal. if you feel yours is excessive, look at the dog bones(rubber with a metal collar where the bolts go) and then consider swapping out the plastic blocks with new. i have several of those plastic pieces along with dog bones if needed.
snowdad,
Thanks for the explanation. It makes more sense now. When I first looked at the parts diagram, the bar looked like 2 pieces, left and right. I have since finished servicing the left side front suspension and added a few more shims. Now that both side are done, there's very little play in the stabilizer bar.
I'm surprised at how many things are held together by rivets and not bolts or screws. It would be nice if the skid plate was removable, or at least have a removable access panel. As part of my pre ride service, I decided to check all the electrical connectors and add a little dielectric grease to the connectors. The plastic cap to my tube of dielectric grease fell between the carbs and engine, into no-man's land. I can't even see it, let alone get it out. At least it plastic and not metal so it should rattle too much.
I'm still waiting to borrow my friends lift to service the rear suspension, so I started some cosmetic work. The metal intake screens on the hood looked a little weathered, so I removed them and gave them a quick coat of satin black. Also, there was some paint chipped on my trailing arms and a little rust on the bottom seam/welds. So I gave them a fresh coat of primer and paint. I used some silver paint that I had leftover on a motorcycle restoration that seemed a pretty close match to the OEM silver color. If nothing else, my sled will look nice.
Thanks for the explanation. It makes more sense now. When I first looked at the parts diagram, the bar looked like 2 pieces, left and right. I have since finished servicing the left side front suspension and added a few more shims. Now that both side are done, there's very little play in the stabilizer bar.
I'm surprised at how many things are held together by rivets and not bolts or screws. It would be nice if the skid plate was removable, or at least have a removable access panel. As part of my pre ride service, I decided to check all the electrical connectors and add a little dielectric grease to the connectors. The plastic cap to my tube of dielectric grease fell between the carbs and engine, into no-man's land. I can't even see it, let alone get it out. At least it plastic and not metal so it should rattle too much.
I'm still waiting to borrow my friends lift to service the rear suspension, so I started some cosmetic work. The metal intake screens on the hood looked a little weathered, so I removed them and gave them a quick coat of satin black. Also, there was some paint chipped on my trailing arms and a little rust on the bottom seam/welds. So I gave them a fresh coat of primer and paint. I used some silver paint that I had leftover on a motorcycle restoration that seemed a pretty close match to the OEM silver color. If nothing else, my sled will look nice.