Newbie Joins the Ranks

I got the skid out tonight and everything moves freely. It only needs a good clean and lube. I looked around inside the tunnel with a flashlight. There were a few paint scrapes from the studs, but no damage to the metal. I couldn't see any marks on the front heat exchanger.

I talked to two different dealers and got two different opinions on whether to use studs or not. I decided, if I can't get something to protect the front heat exchanger, I'll remove them.

The front edge of the hyfax was worn a little, but within spec. As inexpensive as they are, I might install new ones, since I'm in this far. After removing the front lock screw, it doesn't slide very easy. Would a little heat help?

Things I learned; It looks like a PITA to change the track.
 

I usually just get a screwdriver under back or front edge of hyfax and just peel off. Only slide them off if doing on sled. Front heat exchanger protectors are pretty easy to install and easy to come by.
 
Sound like your doing good so far and yes changing the track is a p.i.t.a. Especially when its studed.

Everybody has their own opinion about studs and they can be p.i.t.a to takeout sometimes. If just trail riding I use a nice 1.50 paddle track. Only studs if there's lots of ice..
 
Stud removal was time consuming, but relatively easy. They were only installed last year and still look new. I was surprised at how much easier it is to rotate the track, without the skid, when the studs are gone.

I did pick up a pair of tunnel protectors that I will install while the skid is out, and a local dealer says he can get a heat exchanger protector. I plan to add the protection even with the studs removed. I like a "belts and suspenders" approach to my equipment.
 
I finished lubing and shimming the bushings on the rear skid a few days ago. With my wife out of town for the weekend, I tackled the skid installation today. What a PITA. It took me over 5 hours. I read the tips in the Tech Section, but I still had trouble. I ended up removing the outer two rear idler wheels to give me a little more slack. If I do it again, I'll bribe a friend to help.

The only things left to do are wax the hood and pray for snow :D
 
I measure ctc for the mounts then use a ratchet strap to compress this shock till its close then wrestle it in. One time I had to cut the strap because I put the ratchet handle in a spot where I couldn't release it, so watch for that.
 
I measure ctc for the mounts then use a ratchet strap to compress this shock till its close then wrestle it in. One time I had to cut the strap because I put the ratchet handle in a spot where I couldn't release it, so watch for that.
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Now you tell me :cry: I'll keep that in mind if I ever have to do this again. I had hydraulic lifts on both ends of the sled so I could raise or lower, as needed, but it was still a struggle.
 
Now that my sled is back together, I want to adjust the suspension. I'm starting with the recommended settings in the manual.

One thing I noticed, with the sled sitting on the track, no rider or seat, there is a gap on the lower end of the transfer rods. Is this normal? I thought there should be 0 gap on the bottom, and adjust the preload to about 50/50 gap top/bottom with a rider.
 
What worked best for me was putting small wood pieces in between the track lugs so the wheels would slide in. I popped them out once the skid was in position. Tried that after fighting for hours and it worked great. I also used a ratchet strap to compress the suspension. Oh yeah, and I had my son help me too. It's his sled so he needed to share the enjoyment.
 
Now that my sled is all back together and waxed/detailed, I've been thinking about future mods. I plan to do some easy things after I get a few miles on the sled.

For the engine, it seems reed spacers, thinner head gasket, and modded muffler are simple and inexpensive, without loosing reliability. I've done a lot of reading on these topics, but after reading many threads, I still can't find the answer to the following question. If the sled is currently jetted correctly, do reed spacers, thinner head gasket and muffler mod require different jetting?
 
Thanks. I must resist the urge to modify before I ride. :lol: I do have a friends Polaris that needs his carb overhauled. Maybe that will keep me busy for a while.
 
Good idea. No point in moding too early. These sleds are still fast in stock form. IMO
Often found my acceleration a bit disappointing because my stock studed track wouldn't hook up and all that power was wasted on spinning. All the power in the world ain't worth nothing if it you can't get traction.
 
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Here's a link to a video on tuning the pro action skids if you want to watch it. It pretty long but lots of info.
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I've already watched it, saved the link as a favorite, and took notes on what time in the video for particular sections. Does this mean I have too much time on my hands?
 
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