1984 Phazer rusty skis and seized bolts!....

OneSki

OneSki

New member
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Messages
36
Age
50
Location
NE OH
So I was trying to get the skis off my Phazer and free up all the seized up linkage, boy what a mess....it's like the previous owner let it set in 8 inches of water, the rest of the sled is in nice shape but the skis and and linkage are a little trying to say the least...oh well such as life with the old sleds. So I ended up snapping off the left hand ski bolt. From there I took the linkage loose, those bolts weren't to bad, and got the ski off with the lower part of the linkage still attached to the ski. Now the problem I'm facing is the aluminum collar that goes through the lower linkage, which the ski bolt goes through, is just spinning in the steel linkage. Which is a good thing except the ski bolt is froze in the aluminum collar. So as I work at getting this out my question is this: Is the collar just one piece of aluminum in there?...in looking at a blow up of the suspension it looks like there might be three pieces that make that up, or am I crazy?
http://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003b406f8700212fc83da17/ski

Thinking if I can't get the bolt out of the aluminum collar I'll have to replace it, just cant imagine that there is three pieces in there like the picture shows....or,maybe there is a source for the aluminum that I could cut and make my own...I'm sure I'll run into this on the other side as well.:o|
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 16
there are yes three pieces two bushings and a collar my question is how did you get the foot off the strut tube? aside from the 2 bolts the collar hold its on too
 
Last edited:
Ok cool thanks for the clarification, ....well getting the ski off wasn't all that bad, if you tap a screwdriver in the split of the collar that goes around the bottom of the shock it spreads it enough to clear the shaft that holds the ski bolt that is sitting in the groove on the back of the shock.
Throttle Junkie35 I'll see how this weekend goes I may take you up on that, how much by the way?...I've got everything soaking in PB Blaster as I type....lol
 
Update, so I got the left hand side all taken apart...the ski bolt never did free itself from the collar so I cut both sides just inside the ski and got the linkage out. Then I was able to knock out the collar and bolt together. The lower linkage bolt met the same fate...the good is that I can get the collars and the parts are good and will be cleaned up and preped for reinstall. The skis will have to be blasted and cleaned up good, they are still very solid just rusty. I have a set of black AC skis from a ZR...I bet I could modify the saddle to make them work...hmmmm...i'll look into that...anyway a couple of pic's...I now have the right hand side ski in the vise soaking with PB Blaster and will begin the beatings all over again this week. I also have the carbs ready to go back in and will remove and clean the air box whil I work on the left ski. Boy the air box looks like a real treat to remove as well;)!. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Last edited:
Some say it's not so bad but I think it's a P.I.T.A to remove and put back on. Once you do it a few times it becomes pretty easy.
 
Just did one tonight using a hydraulic press and a deep socket. According to the gauge it took about two tons to break the rusted bolt free of the collar. Once I got the bolt half way out with the press I was able to tap it through the rest of the way fairly easily. No damage to the threads.

1991 Phazer frozen steering knuckle.jpg
 
Wow two tons...I wish I had a press, I tried something like that with my vise but just just not enough pressure. Very nice.
 
Before I used the press I got one out using a very large heavy duty "C" clamp and a deep socket. I bent the handle on the clamp trying to do the second on so I used the press. By the way when the rust does let go there is a loud snap and you'll think something broke. Happened three or four times with each knuckle before it started to move easy enough to tap out.
 
Unfortunately the series allow you to lubricate the outside surface of the collar and not the bolt which gets seized. Might work if you drilled holes in the collar to allow the grease to get through to the bolt.
 
I like the idea for lubricating the collar in the scissor joint but it won't stop the bolt from rusting in the collar and seizing which has been the major problem. If I can get the bolts out I generally do not have any problem getting the collars out of the scissor joint lubricated or not. Getting the bolts out of the collar is another story so that is why I was suggesting drilling a couple of holes in the middle of the collar under the zerk fitting so at least some grease can get down through to the bolt.

I have a few spares around so I will have to give it a try to see how it works. The collars are all the same diameter and just vary in length so I was also thinking of simply replacing them with stainless steel in all locations.
 
NorthofSixty said:
I like the idea for lubricating the collar in the scissor joint but it won't stop the bolt from rusting in the collar and seizing which has been the major problem. If I can get the bolts out I generally do not have any problem getting the collars out of the scissor joint lubricated or not. Getting the bolts out of the collar is another story so that is why I was suggesting drilling a couple of holes in the middle of the collar under the zerk fitting so at least some grease can get down through to the bolt.

I have a few spares around so I will have to give it a try to see how it works. The collars are all the same diameter and just vary in length so I was also thinking of simply replacing them with stainless steel in all locations.
Click to expand...

Lots of us down here south of sixty have to take roads to get to the trail. Roads down here are covered with salt. If a sled was moved in an open trailer even once you will know it. I have had bolts that were rusted to the collars and collars stuck in the arms, and ski brackets etc. I doubt your sleds up there ever see salt. You dont know what your missing. :)
I had thought about stainless collars myself. I think the average stainless stock may be too soft as I have seen a bunch of OEM collars worn pretty good from the outer bushings. I would assume they are made from something harder than stainless?
 
Last edited:
Service is the key. Service manuals for almost any sled call for disassembly, cleaning, inspection, lube and reassembly for almost every suspension component on an annual basis.

This includes all brands.

Most never get touched and people wonder why stuff is all rusted up 30 years later.

Grease fittings on TSS is a good idea. I do mine. Good anti seize on the bolts that go through the sleeves will keep them good. Drilling oversize to add extra bushings or the use of stainless steel won't help if any of the components in the system can corrode. I work with stainless every day. It will corrode when up against steel or aluminum.

opsled
 
like OPSLED says, maintenance is the key on the TSS front ends .....on my trails sleds they come apart every year in the fall and on my oval phazer they come apart after every weekend of racing
 
A couple of bucks said:
Would it be possible to drill the hole out a tad and install nylon/Teflon bushings. I'd think that would stop the dissimilar metal corrosion. Just spitballin here.
Click to expand...

while i like the idea i just don't think they would last the pressures on the collar and bushings are more extreme than one would think which your lead to a sloppy front end even faster as a teflon, nylon, or derlon bushing would just wear out that much faster than the bi metal bushing ..... bearing brass or a oilite bushing would probably last longer
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top