Understanding my new/used Exciter 2

93Excited

93Excited

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Joined
Dec 9, 2016
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28
Location
NE MN
I recently bought a 93' Exciter 2 ST. The previous owner(s) installed a 153" Nytro suspension, a 153x15x1.75 camoplast track, an aftermarket pipe(it turns out and exhausts out of the side of the side panel), removed the oil injection, removed the battery, and changed the gearing and possibly the clutching. The handlebars are custom and raised approx. 2". The sled tops out @ around 70mph on the lake with a few inches of snow, starts easily enough and had new Pistons put in the fall of 2015. I was told it has good compression and the ride is fun and snappy.

I've replaced the front struts with 96' V-MAX XT everything and installed C&A BX plastic ski's. Added a little chain case oil and replaced starter rope.

A few questions and concerns:

The track has been cut down to fit 15" width on the right side. The rotational arrow on the track is running backwards. Why would that be? It was listed as a 1.75" track but most lugs measure 1.5-1 5/8" in depth and seem somewhat rolled over towards their tops. How do I know if The track isproperly tensioned? I was warming it up the other day on a stand and part of a center lug fell off. Is it going to be a nightmare to put a new track on this machine?
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How do I determine how much chain case oil is in it? How much should it have?

I'm batch mixing small amounts of fresh non-oxy gasoline with ams-oil interceptor @ 50:1. Any non-standard precautions I should be taking with premixing? I try to use most of what I put in each ride.

The air box is pretty cracked up and plastic sections are missing. Is there still a cold air intake that can still be purchased and would fit the 1993 Exciter 2 engine?

I have a seat cover coming from east coast upholstery. If when removing the current gorilla tape I start losing large chuncks of old rotten seat foam, what's a good fix as I don't see many foam seats for sale anymore?

Can I just run a low temp grease in the steering arms grease zirc? Has anyone had front suspension work for TSS done by http://www.schmidtbrosmotorsports.com ? I can't really tell if the VMAX XT struts I put in were in good functioning order but the price seemed good and they rebounded on the shop floor of the salvage yard. I ended up modifying the VMAX stabilizer bar as my exciter's wasn't compatible.

The tunnel extension and rear most heat exchanger seem to create and hold a lot of ice, has anyone ever ran poly sections in the undercarriage to avoid buildup? One of the hoses extending out from the seat to the rear heat exchanger is coupled (barely) with a 3/4" nipple. I'd like to replace this with a single hose for reliability and assume that would be a good time to flush the coolant. Where is the best spot to drain coolant from?
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I've noticed black oil leaks from the lower position of the exhaust manifold regularly. Is there any cause for concern with that?
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I'm 210 lbs, the clutch engages to where the machine advances with me on it @ approx. 7000rpm. Is that indicative of non-factory settings? I like the acceleration of the sled. On that note how do I tighten up the rear suspension?

I ride in swamps, fields and woods and often am standing. I'd be doing my back a favor as my rides get longer if I raised the handle bars 2-4" higher than they are already. Does anyone have a good combination of cable extensions, bar risers, bar riser adapters, and bars that work well with the 93' Exciter 2 brake cable, throttle cable, and kill switch? My speedometer doesn't work but tach does, I'm not concerned with keeping the fairing in the equation but it seems nice. I think my TORS is still active and connected as the light comes on when I start it. Should this be disconnected?
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I know that's a lot but it's just stuff that I want to know I'm doing right. I plan on keeping the sled for a long time. Thanks everyone!
 

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First, that looks to be a PSI single pipe on there. It should run about 7250 RPM. No cold air kit on the Exciter II. In fact any modifications including removing the internal baffle will actually produce less HP than a completely stock box or pod filters.
Sometimes guys will install the track in reverse to get better acceleration. This comes with the expense of more wind drag and turbulance in the tunnel and decreased braking traction.
I have seen guys cut tracks down but its usually done evenly on both sides.
Its standard for the TORS light to come on upon starting then disapates after a few seconds.
As far as the oil coming out the Y pipe..clean the joint, both ends with brake clean, apply some high temp silicone to both pieces and re install the pipe.
 
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Stock clutch engagement is not 7,000. It's usually around 3600-4,000. Get a new air box now, don't want to suck snow in the intake. You can probably pick up a good used seat for similar price to recovering it. I have two laying around. Replacing track is a pain the first time. Once you get it down it's not bad. I use a floor jack
 
Ahh I had to re-read your post, Hammer down is correct. The clutch should engage around 36-38 on a stock exciter. With that pipe, you may want 38-42 though. The pipe I believe should run 7250 peak rpm, maybe as much as 7500 if it has some porting.
 
I was looking at the tach yesterday with a friend and he is under the assumption that the tachometer is way off for whatever reason. It pins out soon after accelerating but then comes back down to about 7000rpm and hovers if I'm punching it in a field or straight stretch. Are digital tachs relatively simple to install?

This 93 has a throttle body that I don't remember seeing on my 89 Exciter (in the shop, unknown issues). I thought about cleaning carbs but may wait till I get a new airbox. Any pointers for when I do?

Took the 93' for a decent trail ride yesterday and put about 20 miles on it. I am wondering what phenomenon I was experiencing as I was going at higher speeds through straight flat stretches it seemed I was having to apply more throttle over time as the sled was loosing power or at least slowing down? Could this be a belt or clutch issue? Stopped at a bigger steep hill on the way home and from a stop the sled climbed from the base to the top very well I thought.
 
This sled should run at 7700 rpm. The st is an exciter sx. Look at the carbs in the pic. Flatslides...
 
phazerguy said:
This sled should run at 7700 rpm. The st is an exciter sx. Look at the carbs in the pic. Flatslides...
Click to expand...
You would have to check the cylinders to verify that it is an SX motor. The chassis is not an SX, but it is possible that some one dropped and SX motor in that chassis, or some one added flatslides to a std Exciter motor. If it is an sx motor and has the SX y pipe it should run 7750 with the PSI pipe. If its not an SX motor with stock Y and std PSI pipe it should run 7200.
 
If your loosing RPM on long, flat stretches, you have too much weight in the clutch. Probably due to the longer track and big lug profile. You can try to give your helix more tension to see if that helps.
Those throttle bodies as you call them are flatslide carbs. You may have an SX motor. Check the numbers on the cylinders or post some close of pics of them. Mainly of the intake side of the cylinders.
 
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Thanks Throttle Junkie, I'll look into those things. I'm trying to make sense of what I have. I just picked up my 1990 Exciter that I thought was an 89 and had at a repair shop so I've been doing some comparisons trying to identify differences. This 93 runs amazing in my opinion. The 1990 runs poor (loads up after various running times, usually bogs down after I get off the RPMs or slow down and seems powerless, plugs fouled, lots of smoke and rich smell). The machines have different carburetors and I didn't realize that the 93 has what people call flat slides. Not to change the subject but I see a lot of other people have exciter bogging issues and enough replies to those issues suggesting clutch problems. I don't know sleds but I mentioned it to my dad as he watched the machine load up on me and bog down, he said there's no way it could be clutch related. His question is if the oil pump/injection rate can or should be adjusted? I checked compression and found 123psi and 130psi on cylinders.
 
Thanks Throttle Junkie35, I'll look into those things. I'm trying to make sense of what I have. I just picked up my 1990 Exciter that I thought was an 89 and had at a repair shop so I've been doing some comparisons trying to identify differences. This 93 runs amazing in my opinion. The 1990 runs poor (loads up after various running times, usually bogs down after I get off the RPMs or slow down and seems powerless, plugs fouled, lots of smoke and rich smell). The machines have different carburetors and I didn't realize that the 93 has what people call flat slides. Not to change the subject but I see a lot of other people have exciter bogging issues and enough replies to those issues suggesting clutch problems. I don't know sleds but I mentioned it to my dad as he watched the machine load up on me and bog down, he said there's no way it could be clutch related. His question is if the oil pump/injection rate can or should be adjusted? I checked compression and found 123psi and 130psi on cylinders.

Here's the 1993 ST
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Here's the 1990 LE (EX570EP)
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The st engine does in fact appear to be from an SX. It has 16hp more out of the box compared to your 90. The 90 being 77.2 hp vs 93.4 for the SX. Now add the psi pipe that you have and your at 98 hp.
On your 90, Im going to guess the lower compression is on the recoil side?? The numbers arent horrible but the difference between them is a bit concerning. I would make sure your carbs are clean and that you have a fresh belt. Report back.
Clutch/belt issues can mimick carb problems. Running a worn belt can be like eliminating 1st gear and the sled will lug and bog. A primary clutch with a broken or worn out spring will do the same thing. Same with the secondary. Sometimes a worn out secondary will come off the bottom ok but the backshift (slowing down then trying to accelerate) will be lazy and lug the motor causing a bog.
 
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I'm going to try on new belt on my 90 exciter LE EX570EP tomorrow. I'm using a Dayco hp 3021. It seems that it's loose. The belt on my 93 exciter 2 is more snug fore sure but I can't pull it around the shieves like I can on the 90. does anyone have any other belt reccomendations for a belt on my 90? If that doesn't fix the bog I'll look into clutches.

Also I'm doing slides on my modified 93 ST/SX 153" Nytro. What's the best way to go about that? Any pointers for re-upholstering the seat to make it look factory quality?
 
Use an OEM belt on your Yami. Its always an exact fit and is less expensive than aftermarket. Depending on the track window size, you may be able to loosen the track, remove the screw securing the slides, and pound off the old slides and slide the new ones on. HOWEVER, generally when it comes the time to replace the slides, the skid should be removed, inspected, greased etc..
As far as re-upholstering the seat: take it to an automotive trim shop or a place that does upholstery for boats if your looking for a durable, good quality re-cover. Aftermarket covers are available for about $100 but they last only a few years before they start to crack and go to hell. Also, the plastic in those seats is very tough to staple without the proper pnuematic stapeler. Im pretty darn handy but im also a bit anal about how things look. I did a recover a few years ago and stapling the plastic, even with an electric stapler proved to be a PITA. I just send them out now.
 
We received about 6" of snow in the last few days so I did my slides on the 93 Exciter today, greased rear susp. Installed a new windshield, new recoil rope and spring, we pulled the y-pipe cleaned the face of the engine and I saw how bad the exhaust pipe gaskets are. I take it that's where all the black leakage was coming from. Is it legitimate to use RTV red high heat gasket maker on that face? I did and now I'm second guessing that move. Snugged it up finger tight, waited an hour then tightened them down. We put high heat paint on the exhaust and I replaced the choke lever as it broke last night before transit to a heated garage. It's -18 with feels like -31 right now. I found a clutch guard off of a 90's era Venture today that fit nicely and tomorrow I'll see if I tensioned the belt back right.

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I picked up a clutch puller and a new belt for the 90 Exciter today tomorrow I hope to get to the bottom of things. I couldn't find OEM but did get a parts unlimited belt LMX 1106 today that I'll try tomorrow and then take the primary apart. It'll be my first go at that. I'm guessing there's some stored energy that I'll want to be careful of? I have watched a guys vid about exciter and Phazer clutches (the one with his dog helping) and will check what he recommends. My spring has blue paint on it. What's considered weak or worn out on those? I just don't see many if any clutch rebuild kits for these exciters.

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1990 Exciter LE (EX570EP) runs great until ???

Throttle Junkie35 said:
The st engine does in fact appear to be from an SX. It has 16hp more out of the box compared to your 90. The 90 being 77.2 hp vs 93.4 for the SX. Now add the psi pipe that you have and your at 98 hp.
On your 90, Im going to guess the lower compression is on the recoil side?? The numbers arent horrible but the difference between them is a bit concerning. I would make sure your carbs are clean and that you have a fresh belt. Report back.
Clutch/belt issues can mimick carb problems. Running a worn belt can be like eliminating 1st gear and the sled will lug and bog. A primary clutch with a broken or worn out spring will do the same thing. Same with the secondary. Sometimes a worn out secondary will come off the bottom ok but the backshift (slowing down then trying to accelerate) will be lazy and lug the motor causing a bog.
Click to expand...

Today my dad and I pulled the primary clutch cover off and inspected weights, rollers, spring and main bushing. They looked great so we reassembled and put the parts unlimited LMX 1106 belt on. We didn't feel binding in the secondary but didn't take it apart. Took carbs apart, moved to top needle clip position (I've tried all positions now I believe) and cleaned carbs thoroughly. Confirmed fuel to each carb, air screws 5/8ths turn out. There are carburetor switches and cable adjusting nuts that I know nothing about but other wise the boots look great, airbox looks clean, carbs appear to be recirculating coolant through heater lines. The throttle cable always snaps back well. I have new 91 non-oxy in the tank, if I choke it when it's warm it responds and choke cable springs back well.

After doing the above things it started right up, I jumped on it and it felt fast, snappy and all around great. I ran it 1 mile down the right of way speeding up and slowing down for bumps and deep snow. When I arrived at a 300yard field with deep snow I opened it up and it just floated and cruised across the field topping out at about 65mph (not much track lug left). I took a long sweeping corner and pinned the throttle again for another 300 yards. No problems, lots of fun, 65mph again slowing down considerably at the end of that straight run and making some tight turns at low speed. I made that loop 3 times and was grinning from one ear to the other. I thought I had it fixed when I started my way back through the ditches and slowed down for a big bump in the trail, I think I let off throttle completely then the sled bogged and acted loaded up. Just as soon as I could flip the hood up to look at the clutches, the engine recovered its idle, I lightly squeezed throttle and could tell immediately that it had its pep back. I drove it to the garage flawlessly, parked it for about 10 minutes off, then I started it up easily and drove it another 2 miles through ditches and no issues.

I'm absolutely baffled and don't know where to look next. Last winter I tried opening the fuel tank when the bog started and it didn't seem to help. Sometimes the engine takes longer to recover. Tonight it ran for approximately 10-15 minutes before I lost power. Could it be overheating somehow and not displaying it on my dash? My reservoir and system are full and seem primed. As mentioned previously compression seems good. It always smells very rich (why I'm I'm at the top needle clip position)

Should I tear the secondary apart? This is such a fun ride I am bound and determined to make it right.
 
Main jet size determinants?

My elevation is about 1200ft. My machine is stock to my knowledge. I'll be going back in for jet #s tomorrow. Is there a good chart for getting ballpark close to correct mains?

While I'm in there I would think that I should be going back to the default needle clip position? I just stumbled on an old post from "Lasse" where he mentions his elevation and jet #s and realized that I should have paid way closer attention to the numbers on all the brass I just had apart when I was cleaning. It really hit home when I saw how many different jets they sell @ yamahapartshouse.com

Any idea what size most people run for pilot jets?

In another forum I saw this mention of disconnecting TORS and eliminating the thermostat to fix an overheating bog which I've wondered about. It sounds a bit odd.

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On 87-90 Exciters it is recommened to remove the thermostat. Just make sure you warm the sled up really good before you grab a handfull of throttle. Pilot jets should be 42.5, main jets should be 320. Check your clutch guard. It has the jetting specs for temp and elevation. The needle should be a 6FL82 and nozzle should be a P-6. And yes, I wouldnt run that lean needle setting. You can also turn the carb heater off.
 
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