Oil pump line check valve allows gas to leak out?

Ok just spent some time in the trailer getting ready for the part to arrive tomorrow and confirming a few things.

First the Check valve is out. Gas flowed out of the oil port like crazy on the fuel pump so that's definitely not clogged right? I plugged it for now.

The hose on the check valve to the pump was really hard and was squirting around the fuel pump nipple as I tried to get it off too. I am 99% sure the valve or hose was the leak.

Right now I have paper towel under the hoses and next to the fuel pump. It will be obvious when I check if they are dry or wet. I feel like smell of gas was immediately dissipating once I pulled the valve and plugged the oil port on the fuel pump. And things seemed to be much dryer. I could see the gas spreading last night even after I had just wiped it up.

The interesting thing is I can't blow through the check valve in either direction though. That seems odd right? Maybe it froze up since this happened?

I didn't move the carb rack yet to bleed the oil pump but I thought pulling on the oil cable would force some oil up through the hose that has had the check valve removed, but I got nada. Is that typical?

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If not running pulling on cable won't work. You should be able to get to that screw just as is without removing carbs. I never had to remove screw just loosen and it starts pooring out if I remember. The oil will unfortunately go into belly as it's hard to get rag in there. As mrviper said just move those carbs out of the way is easiest!
 
Got it thanks. I thought that might be the case about getting oil to flow. So that means I'll be hooking it back up without the hose full, then bleed, start it up and pull cable full to open oil pump all the way. Can I do this quick run without airbox in so I can easily see oil status in hose after running? I know too much air can be bad.

And since the check valve won't allow flow in either direction it must have seized right?
 
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steveg_nh said:
Got it thanks. I thought that might be the case about getting oil to flow. So that means I'll be hooking it back up without the hose full, then bleed, start it up and pull cable full to open oil
Pump all the way. Can I do this quick run without airbox in so I can easily see oil status in hose after running? I know too much air can be bad.
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yep you got the order right to do it. you can idle the sled without airbox wont hurt anything. when your done be sure to plug the vent hose nipple back into rubber port on front of airbox.
 
I just took another look at the old check valve. I can just barely get air through it one way. Barely. I am almost blowing out an O ring trying. Lol. The other way nothing. Seems like it should allow more through in the proper direction. It is pretty worn down on one side too from years of rubbing.

Edit: at times I can get air to flow both ways through old valve and sometimes nothing.
 
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Just checked the situation. Paper towels all dry. Maybe a touch damp on the one laying under fuel pump nipples. Could have been residual moisture or a small drip from the vac cap on the oil nipple. I swapped it to a dry one and will check in morning.
 
Morning report. LOL. Paper towel was bone dry, as was the whole area. No gas! So it was the check valve/hose on the oil line. Part is supposed t be here by 2pm. Then I'll get to work. I was really hoping I could get to the bleed screw on the oil pump without sliding the carbs back, but I can't see anything down there with them installed. Plus, I want to replace the hose to the T fitting too, so if I don't slide them back, that will be hard.

So a question - the fuel pump has 3 lines going to the carbs, Check. One oil line input line. Check. What's the other gas line nearest the oil connection? It's a slightly larger diameter hose than the one for the carbs, and goes down into the belly...just curious.
 
that's the pulse hose, it goes to the engine block, its what makes the fuel pump work.
 
Yes that is it - I have never had to move the carbs for bleeding. I just set a magnet next to it in case my fumble fingers slip and then back the screw out. You will be putting it right back in once good clean oil flows freely.

I drop 2 fingers between the throttle shaft and the front carb rack to grab the screw while turning it with a screwdriver. Magnet there just in case I slip.
 
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Thanks. It's done. 30 min job took 5 hrs. Lol. Of course I dropped two of those hose spring clips into the belly and couldn't find them. Trip to store. Then the screw heads on the carb boots were stripped. Had to drill them out. Trip to store.

Definitely could have bled oil pump without moving carb rack but there was no way I could get the new hose onto the T in the oil line to fuel pump without taking them off. So I did. Had to pull the carb antifreeze hose to get the rack to move enough.

When I bled the oil pump no gas come out. If there was maybe a drop or two. But it was all oil. Once I started sled and pulled on oil cable I could see the oil pump through the hose (and some air bubbles) and fill the line. I let it idle for a few minutes and then shut it down and waited. Fuel never came back into that hose! And no more gas leak!

Thanks for all the tips and help guys. You saved my trip tomorrow.
 
fwiw - a flexible magnet wand is worth it's weight in gold when working on sleds. I have retrieved stuff with it too many times to count.

Glad to hear all is well !!! I will log that check valve issue for future reference. I just haven't seen it occur much.
 
I tried to find the clips with a magnet wand and couldn't. I even used my inspection camera and couldn't find them. The sled ran great today though. No gas leaks!
 
It helps when you have had a sled completely apart a number of times to know where the hidden crannies are. On the Pro-action chassis stuff usually ends up back through the holes by the front heat exchanger (front block-off of tunnel) or in the pockets that the steering rods go through. I usually have the best luck pulling the pipe and coming in from the front.
 
Ding said:
It helps when you have had a sled completely apart a number of times to know where the hidden crannies are. On the Pro-action chassis stuff usually ends up back through the holes by the front heat exchanger (front block-off of tunnel) or in the pockets that the steering rods go through. I usually have the best luck pulling the pipe and coming in from the front.
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This pic might help someone 20170114_235407.png20170114_235344.png

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Those are helpful thanks. Not sure I'll bother though. I'll just order a couple of new clips. Not sure how this circular spring clips (not the ones with the ears) even do that much since they spread so easily.

Simple question too - I can't imagine any of what I did for this fix caused this, but I did experience an idle hang situation once or twice yesterday. Hung around 3k then rose to clutch engagement and then dropped. It's done this before but hasn't in a while. My idle is set to 1500 maybe I should lower a little. I think I recall reading about that.

But again bigger question is if related to this check valve fix. I don't see how. Thanks.
 
Is it possible that some debris got into the pilot jet? Might be time to rip the carbs out for a good once over.

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