01 SRX build

[XArmy]

Since I'm building/ rebuilding a sled I had no intention of building, I guess I'll post my progress. I do this in the motorcycle world, but this is my first venture in the sled world. My last moto build from this past winter/ spring can be seen HERE if interested.

Short back story. Lately the winters here in West Michigan are hit and miss. I wanted a sled but didn't want to spend much on what could end up being a barn ornament. I was interested in the 00-02 SXR's due to the low price and high suspension. I found an 01 SRX with M10 suspension on it and checked it out. It ran and looked okay, but was hard to really see in the guys trailer. The price was good so I bought it. As I do with my bikes, I tore into it to see what I had and found a power valve in the exhaust. That led to a snowball affect of finding other issues and now I'm completely rebuilding the damn thing. NOT what I wanted, but couldn't re-sell it knowing the issues and didn't want to lose $$.

As purchased.

All 3 valve cables pulled through.

Now...

 

[XArmy]

Going to need a few items from Team Fast. Lets just say the previous owner rode it with loose suspension bolts.

Paint/ re-coat pile.

 

[Mac]

Im impressed. Not many guys want to go that deep....... into a sled like that. Its quite obvious you are very capable. I can only imagine what the stealership would charge for all that work. Please do keep us posted with pics of progress. Good luck with your build.
---mac---

 

[Dturn]

Wow! Good Luck, sorry to see the Damage. You will have a sweet Ride when you are done.

Derek

 

[super1c]

That's how it starts. Nice job and keep the updates comming.

 

[XArmy]

OK, I have a bunch of questions, but I don't want to make a bunch of repetitive treads. So I'll ask here and hope they get a few answers.

First and foremost, clutches. Motorcycles don't have these style things so I know nothing about them. The more I read on clutching, the more it hurts. I'm sure mine have never been rebuilt. The rollers are rusty etc... Whats the best way to go about repairing/ rebuilding these? Both the primary and secondary. Right now I'm looking at a lot of $$ just to get the motor and drive line back in order and a new track. So spending a ton on a fancy super clutch is on the back burner right now. What comes with the oem yamaha clutch rebuild kit? Worth it? or add a little more $$ for something better? I'm not looking to race it or be king of the castle, I would like just a snappy aggressive trail setup.

Tracks. I'm leaning heavily toward the ripsaw II or maybe the cobra. 121" For trails, open fields, maybe a little lake running. Any thoughts, suggestions? I don't want studs (at least for now).

Idler wheels. Do these things really cost $40 each? I want to get rid of the ugly red ones on mine. I've looked around, but most I've seen don't tell me the bearing ID. With the M10 on it, I can't look them up by vehicle. Suggestions?

Ski's. Again, replacing the ugly red ones. I'm thinking I want something a little better at floating than the SLP SLT's. What's a good in between ski for trail bite and floating? Powder pro? I've read on a lot of ski's, but you guys have the experience with SRX's. What say you? I'll be on the trails and off the trails a lot in open fluffy fields etc...

 

[SRXChris]

I feel your pain sir. I was in same boat as you, wanting a sled but not wanting to spend a ton as winters here are the same.. I haven't owned a sled since my old 1975 Elan back in the 80's. So I bought a used 2001 SRX, not knowing much about it I looked over some basic things, compression checked it and took it for test drive in a field. All seemed good to I found this site and started realizing I had some issues.

Warning light was supposed to flash 3 times upon start up to self diagnose, mine never did. Seller had told me light was flashing for him so he had it fixed, the fix was to snip the wire at dummy light and unplug temp sensor in the water jacket. So I soldered wire and started it up, light flashes a constant pattern now(code is sensor). Ordered new t stat and sensor, replaced but sled was put down for summer nap just waiting for winter to see if fixed.

W arm broken among bad idlers, seller confirmed all bearings were done in skid and great shape. Another lie. My own fault for taking this fraud artists word.

I could go one but will drive it this year with the repairs made and do a tear down like yourself next year and give it major going over as I have always wanted an SRX and just going to have to live witthit cause I still like the damn thing. Good luck.

 

[XArmy]

 

[XArmy]

Warning light was supposed to flash 3 times upon start up to self diagnose, mine never did. Seller had told me light was flashing for him so he had it fixed, the fix was to snip the wire at dummy light and unplug temp sensor in the water jacket. So I soldered wire and started it up, light flashes a constant pattern now(code is sensor). Ordered new t stat and sensor, replaced but sled was put down for summer nap just waiting for winter to see if fixed.

I never looked at mine before tearing it apart. We shall see I guess.

 

[EVOVII_SWE]

Hi, I also "just" bought a 2001 SRX700, I’m a bit better off than you when it comes to overall condition though but I also looked into clutching, a new track and new skis.

This is some info I found on primary clutching:

“loaded 8dn 20's with w/w/w spring, 51/45 dalton helix with green sec spring at 70 is for all around riding, it will upshift faster than stock making the sled get up to speed faster and more aggressively and it will backshift better then stock due to the finish angle being slightly shallower then the stock straight 47 helix ( if you want it slightly more "revvy" in the woods use the stock y/w/y primary spring)”.

“The clutch has 3 holes labeled 1,2,3 and the helix has 6 I believe. So 70 degrees means spring in hole 1 on clutch and hole 6 on helix. I don't know how much you read in the tech section but 1+6 is 7 * 10 is 70, that’s how you get the degrees, add the numbers of what holes the spring is in and multiply by 10.”

Some part no:

white white white primary spring 90501-583L1-00
green dot secondary spring 90508-556A2-00
4.5 rivet 90261-06033-00

I was also told that Advant-Edge Motorsport helixes were really good price vs. performance and that their 48/40 equals a Dalton 51/45.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-SX-S...hash=item3acf2e0481:m:mnYTlHN5SHKEaEPwjSsuWEQ

When it comes to tracks I was also looking at the likes of Ripsaw, Ripsaw II, Cobra 1.6, Kimpex Shotgun X and a few more. The Cobra 1.6 is softer and better off the trail as far as I could tell. I missed a killer deal on a new Shotgun X as the last one was sold literarily the day I placed the order

I then started looking at pre studded tracks like the ICE COBRA 1.6, ICE Attak, ICE Ripper XT and ICE Attak XT. They are based on the COBRA 1.6, Hacksaw, Ripsaw and Ripsaw 2 respectively. My first choice would be the last one, the ICE Attak XT based on the Ripsaw 2. A lot of people seem very happy with this kind of tracks. They do not grip like proper retro fitted studs on ice but on the other hand they grip a lot better than non-studded while being not much heavier than those. Also there is a lot less risk of damaging the heat exchangers and other stuff in the tunnel.

When it comes to skis I'm probably gonna go for the CA-PRO RZ's.

I hope this helps some. A good thing of really digging into stuff that you do now is that you know every detail afterwards, keep up the good work

/Thomas

 

[XArmy]

Thanks for the input!!

 

[XArmy]

Checked the bores. Pretty much all the measurements were 69mm - 69.02mm. Max taper .02mm. Lots of cross hatch left.

My parts list is getting very long. Started to order some of the parts.

 

[pete_man26]

Hi, I also "just" bought a 2001 SRX700, I’m a bit better off than you when it comes to overall condition though but I also looked into clutching, a new track and new skis.

This is some info I found on primary clutching:






Some part no:

white white white primary spring 90501-583L1-00
green dot secondary spring 90508-556A2-00
4.5 rivet 90261-06033-00

I was also told that Advant-Edge Motorsport helixes were really good price vs. performance and that their 48/40 equals a Dalton 51/45.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-SX-S...hash=item3acf2e0481:m:mnYTlHN5SHKEaEPwjSsuWEQ

When it comes to tracks I was also looking at the likes of Ripsaw, Ripsaw II, Cobra 1.6, Kimpex Shotgun X and a few more. The Cobra 1.6 is softer and better off the trail as far as I could tell. I missed a killer deal on a new Shotgun X as the last one was sold literarily the day I placed the order

I then started looking at pre studded tracks like the ICE COBRA 1.6, ICE Attak, ICE Ripper XT and ICE Attak XT. They are based on the COBRA 1.6, Hacksaw, Ripsaw and Ripsaw 2 respectively. My first choice would be the last one, the ICE Attak XT based on the Ripsaw 2. A lot of people seem very happy with this kind of tracks. They do not grip like proper retro fitted studs on ice but on the other hand they grip a lot better than non-studded while being not much heavier than those. Also there is a lot less risk of damaging the heat exchangers and other stuff in the tunnel.

When it comes to skis I'm probably gonna go for the CA-PRO RZ's.

I hope this helps some. A good thing of really digging into stuff that you do now is that you know every detail afterwards, keep up the good work

/Thomas

1" Hacksaw is all I run on my ATTAK and SRX, excellent on hard trail pack, hooks up better then a 1-1/4" Ripsaw and give great top end speed, so unless you plan on going off trail I recommend the Hacksaw!

 

[amatosrx]

Call me on your build 616-318-4560 I live in gr.

 

[XArmy]

Small update. It was missing an exhaust gasket between the manifold/ header pipe and the pipe itself. No idea how long it was missing, but judging by the inside I'd say awhile.

Before

After

 

[A couple of bucks]

It was missing an exhaust gasket between the manifold/ header pipe and the pipe itself.

Was it the same cylinder related to the piston in picture #6 of your original post?

 

[XArmy]

Strange thing, no. Cyl 3 was missing the gasket, cyl 2 had the power valve in the pipe, and cyl 1 was the worn out piston. Unless someone had it open and re-assembled it randomly to "run to sell" and screw the buyer (me) over. Sometimes I wonder...

 

[A couple of bucks]

Sometimes I wonder...

Did you happen to notice any shiny edges on fasteners and such that would indicate recent "wrenching ".

 

[XArmy]

Didn't really look for that, but I know the gunk buildup on the outside of the PV housings was thick and had no sign of being apart recently. So I'd say no one was in it, but strange how each cylinder had a different issue.

 

[super1c]

Looking good!