SRX 700 low compression

Try heating the steel shaft with a propane torch while slowly turning the crank. Keep pressure on it while you warm it up. You don't need it to get really hot. Just warm. Then try tapping the end with a hammer.
 
did one with the water and teflon trick and it took 2 nights at -30 before the clutch came off. i have also had to cut one to get it off of the crank on a doo. good thing it was already scrap.
 
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SRXChris said:
Able to get that clutch off?
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Got all the stuff cleared off the sled and tipped up on its side last night. Tried the water in the hole this morning, no such luck so far. Gave it 5 tries or so and I'm almost out of teflon tape. Its supposed to get down to 28F on Monday night (only night on the 10 day below freezing) so I'll leave it in there that night hoping it'll pop it off. Not too optimistic though. I'm thinking I'll have to cut off the clutch.
 
are ya sure your puller is bottoming out in the crank? take a small metal rod or long skinny phillips head screw driver and insert into the crank till it hits the bottom, mark it and remove. hold the puller up to the screwdriver or rod and see if the puller is long enough, I have seen the cheap pullers not be long enough. Another thing you can do is use a air impact gun to set some tension onto the puller. Sometimes on the stubborn ones, you have to give it a zip with impact and let it sit, then go over after a bit and tap the end of the puller with a hammer..........some sound like a small gun popping when they release!
 
Listen to this guy he knows his stuff!! I was writing the same thing as Mr Viper posted it LOL. But really the 1st time I watched a guy pull a primary off an srx he used a 1/2 inch drive pneumatic impact driver ans was really surprised how quickly it popped off. I wouldnt worry about the bearings really, Yammi engineered the clutch to come off this way. The hammer trick definitely works also, 1st time I pulled the primary off my srx I put some rope down the cyl nearest the pto and used a standard 1/2 inch drive ratchet and ball peen hammer, a little tension at a time when the puller tightened up with a few mediocre taps. When I mean a little tension I mean I turned the ratchet 1/8th of a revolution. It did eventually come off, about 5 min which felt like an ETERNITY!! After assembly sled revved out as it did before to 8500 and acted as if nothing ever happened this was 4-5 seasons ago, I was nervous while doing this but it did wok out very well when I was a very tight budget. GOOD LUCK hope you get out there b4 the snow melts like it did here in southern ontario...
 
Also on another note, be very careful while working on aluminum in the cold, very brittle. Yes I am aware the crank and pto are not aluminum.
 
Whacked on it pretty good with the puller tight and it still won't come loose. I tried the water trick a few more times, using varying amounts of teflon tape but it doesn't seem to build up the hydraulic pressure. Like its leaking from somewhere, but I'm not entirely convinced its leaking around the puller teflon taped threads. I'm hoping it'll freeze one of these upcoming days and the ice won't be able to push out whereever its leaking from but push the clutch off. If it doesn't... whats better, cut the clutch off or cut the frame so I can remove the motor? Almost think I could put the clutch between plates on a press and press the motor/crank off. Though the aluminum clutch would probably break. It would be easier to cut the clutch off outside of the sled.
 
Have you tried a good 1/2” strong impact gun with good air supply? Before I would cut I would have someone else try to remove it.
 
When I used the hydraulic method (polaris so I didnt wanna drop $$) I found out the thread size and bought a grade 8 bolt and tefloned that up a lot. I put a ton of pressure on it and it flew of and the water was a geyser, mind you the motor was out and on its side.
 
X2 to the last 2 posts. Are you using the puller for the hydraulic method? You won't be able to get enough hydraulic pressure if you are because the puller will bottom out on the crank before it gets enough pressure built up.
 
drew24 said:
X2 to the last 2 posts. Are you using the puller for the hydraulic method? You won't be able to get enough hydraulic pressure if you are because the puller will bottom out on the crank before it gets enough pressure built up.
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Was using the puller bolt for the hydraulic method. That must be it then.

captnviper said:
When I used the hydraulic method (polaris so I didnt wanna drop $$) I found out the thread size and bought a grade 8 bolt and tefloned that up a lot. I put a ton of pressure on it and it flew of and the water was a geyser, mind you the motor was out and on its side.
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Can i get away with using the stock bolt, or do I need to hunt around for something hardened? The threads are starting to get shiny on the puller near the end and they look thinner than the rest of the threads. I think they should have added more threads, it only gets 3/4" of threads on before the puller hits the end of the crank. Might be why its leaking too. It definitely feels like its not holding hydraulic pressure. I feel the pressure build up as I turn it by hand, but it feels like its losing pressure as I turn it in.
 
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You need a bolt with the same threads as the puller(I can't remember what thread it is) and it should be about 2 or 2 1/2" long fully threaded. They can pop off pretty good so be ready for it.
 
Simonsweden said:
Just cut off the puller. Then you have a bolt with right thread.
If i remember right the thread is m18x1,5
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Hoping to use the puller on my two Phazers and this sled once it gets undone, so I would like to save it. I couldn't find the m18x1.5 bolt locally at hardware stores, so I ordered one of these $10 pullers. should be here in about a week

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Tried the hydraulic technique like 20 times, doesn't work. Even left it overnight last 5 nights when its gotten down to below 10F. I have to get this thing off, don't even care anymore, just willing to cut it off. Where do I cut so as to not ruin the crank? That's all I care about is preserving the crank
 
cut from outside in after you take as much of the cover and weights as you can. i would split the outer sheve and spider with a cutting grinder or saws all to get it out of the way. then i would put a puller bolt in there tight with water or grease in there and start cutting the centre working towards the inner sheve with a cut off wheel on a grinder. with the heat and vibration from doing this, you might get lucky and it pops with the puller in place. if not keep cutting and watch you do not hit the crank. got a doo one off this way for a guy. was a pita but it came.
 
Do they make special wheels for aluminum? The 3" cutoff wheels I'm using worked well for the first inch of the spider now its getting loaded up and not cutting.
 
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