Viper ER Clutch Kit Success! But 8000 RPM’s WOT?

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Yamidude

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Joined
Dec 11, 2018
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Location
New York
I recently installed the Heel Clicker Kit and tuned it according to MrViper700’s specs. It is a complete animal and low to mid range is balls out! The only downside is, it won’t get over 8000 rpms. I have the following setup:

HC Fly Weights with 5 grams in shoulder, 4.3 mid and 3.4 in the tip. On the secondary i installed a 46/36 helix and used the stock spring (which looks tired and paint is flaking away) @90 wrap.

The question I have is, could the old stock spring make it fall flat at 8000 RPMs? If so, I have a brand new green spring that I could replace it with. Any suggestions on wrap with the green or should I order another stock red spring?

By the way, I dusted my buddies brand new Polaris Pro 600 Axys 137. I had three sled lengths on him at about 700 feet. Very impressive!
 
As a primary spring get old and weaker they tend to
over load the engine, causing lower peak rpms and bogs. Kinda like you are always in a gear too high sorta speak.

Green spring on the secondary @ 70wrap is a good start.

Also 80 wrap will help you bring up your rpms some.
 
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Vincent said:
As a primary spring get old and weaker they tend to
over load the engine, causing lower peak rpms and bogs. Kinda like you are always in a gear too high sorta speak.

Green spring on the secondary @ 70wrap is a good start.

Also 80 wrap will help you bring up your rpms some.
Click to expand...

He said he is at 90 wrap already.
 
I installed the red HC spring in the primary, but I left the stock red spring in the secondary. I just installed the green at 80 degrees and I’m out riding now, but there’s no place to open it up! It seems to be very peppy anyways!
 
Finally found a field to open it up for a little while and it’s the same. The sled goes straight to 8000 rpms on WOT and it still climbs in speed, but the RPM’s hit a wall on the tach. There’s no power loss, it’s just won’t cross 8000 r’s. Any suggestions? Could it be the tip weight? Again, I would like to stress that the sled has tons of power and there is no bog anywhere in the power band. It just won’t go above 8000 RPM’s. All clutch parts except the main bushing in the primary are new. Ideas?
 
Did it pull above 8000rpm ok before this new clutch setup? Check the powervalves for pull thru and clean/adjust?. Do you have pipes or single? Did you use his piped setup and you are single it won’t pull that weight as your not making as much power? Just thinking
 
One more thing I remember him always saying that not all helix are created equal. Different brands list the same angles but actually measure different from one another
 
A couple of bucks, the backshift is nice. At any point I can left off, pin it and it eats.

mnsrz01, I’ve inspected, cleaned and reset the powervalves pretty much every time I ride it. As far as the setup, I definitely set it up for single pipe as stated in the instructions and what MrViper700 suggested. I just used his setup which definitely woke this thing up! The sled always hit 8600 before the clutch kit, that’s why I’m thinking it might need to be tweaked. Either way it’s a rocket, I just wonder what I’m missing on the top end.
 
Lol! ��

im sure Mr. Viper will chime in and tell you what to do with the clutch setup.
 
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mnsrx01 said:
One more thing I remember him always saying that not all helix are created equal. Different brands list the same angles but actually measure different from one another
Click to expand...
That is why I asked you in another thread who manufactured the helix. That 36 finish is probably not 36. It's more than likely 38. That would answer why your peak Rs are low.
Can you post a picture of that helix? I'd like a shallower finish so we don't have to remove any weight at the clutch weight tips.
https://totallyamaha.net/showthread.php/61494-List-of-aftermarket-helix-angles
 
Which Heel Clicker clutch kit did you install? There is an early version and an updated version. Did you "notch" your primary to allow the arm to swing out fully without contacting? Mark both primary and secondary sheaves with black marker to see how far the belt travels as well.
 
Northern srx, it’s the newer HC fly weights and yes I notched the sheave for the shoulder weights. The black magic marker idea is worth the try! I’ll let you know how it works.

Maim, yes I have a MBRP race can on it....I see where your going with this! Lol
 
Yamidude said:
Northern srx, it’s the newer HC fly weights and yes I notched the sheave for the shoulder weights. The black magic marker idea is worth the try! I’ll let you know how it works.

Maim, yes I have a MBRP race can on it....I see where your going with this! Lol
Click to expand...



same can my brother had on his and all it was good for was weight loss. lost power/rpm's on his as well was driving him and turk nuts when he was trying to clutch it. threw stock one back on and all was perfect.
 
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