95 VMAX help needed

back in the day for the heated sheild, most guys would tap into the brake light switch power source under the handle bar pad for sleds without e start.
 
New question.... I have the service manual, but is there any parts listings, maybe exploded views by section? I'm working on the chassis and looking to just replace all the bearings but I can't find part numbers for the various wheels/bogies.
 
i use port yamaha's online parts fiche for any exploded views i need. i usually get my bearings/wheels at a local sled parts store. bearings for the small idler wheels are usually 6004 2rs. bearings for the larger wheels are usually 6204 2rs. this is based on stock wheels.

on the sleds that get high milage every season, i usually pull the wheel, remove the retailing ring and pick out the seal. i then clean out the old grease with brake clean, spin/check the bearing for rough spots and re pack it with new grease every year before re installing. i also do this to the bearing behind the secondary clutch and to the one under the speedo pick-up below it but i do not pull those right out every time as they can be a pain to get out on some sleds.
 
Looks like I'll need more advice. Tried getting upto Munising last weekend to ride with you all, but this happened at Pine Stump:

LH cylinder is gouged about .080" deep from a piston ring coming apart. I think this happened (guessing) from loosing seal on the cylinder gasket. There is lots a fresh oil ooze from that area of the gasket on the front of cylinder.

Question is: can I find a replacement jug or is there still anyone out there who will fill, hone and recoat it for me? I can't tell if its coated (nikacel?)
 
ouch. re ring the other side while you have it torn down this far. looks like it is a niccacil cylinder so finding a jug would be easiest if it is not ported. there is a cylinder rebuilder who has been posted on here before if you cannot. i am in canada so the guy i would use would most likely not work for you.

you could also go this route as well, https://www.hauckpowersport.com/product/48615/700cc-twin-big-bore , but i have very little experiance with this system. i did consider it for my 01 sx500r back in the day.
 
Thanks Maim. I've ordered a reman cylinder and while I'm waiting, friend suggests I replace clutchside crank seal, so thats on order as well. I need to find a piston in stock and clutch puller next...
 
if going for aftermarket pistons, put both in as they weigh different than the oe and can cause vibrations and other issues.
 
Good idea on the pistons, thanks!!

Next question - I'm wanting to change out the crank seal on the clutch side (assuming it leaned out at this area) Do I need to split the crankcase to replace this seal? Hoping to get it replaced with just removing the clutch...
 
I've got that answer now, unfortunately I need to split crank. So I'll pull the engine and replace both seals, also just ordered yamabond #5 (which is probably just permatex...)
 
74Nitro said:
Inspect the oil pump drive, as I've seen them wear completely off.
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I've torn the engine apart tonight and the pump looks good externally. But what about the belt? I'm making the drive 2.5hrs tomorrow to Babbits for a few items and wondering if it's worth a new belt...? It doesnt look bad but it is 25+ years old.
 
Lakehouse2021 said:
I've torn the engine apart tonight and the pump looks good externally. But what about the belt? I'm making the drive 2.5hrs tomorrow to Babbits for a few items and wondering if it's worth a new belt...? It doesnt look bad but it is 25+ years old.
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I've never seen one break, but a new one can't hurt.
 
you are there for the seals, i would throw a water pump belt in as it is cheap now vs on the side of the trail.
 
I've got it back together and running. Feels like I'm chasing a rich fuel condition, like one or both chokes are on. I've swapped jets from 150 all the way up to 156 and not getting better low end performance. I've checked the choke cables for freeplay (about 1/16"). Now I'm thinking it may be internal to the carbs? The new cylinder seems to be leaner than the old one. Checked plugs on a coast down, lots of unburned gas.

I'm thinking I'll tear the carbs down and see if something is wrong, but I dont know how the internal choke should be set, any thoughts?
 
When you are cleaning the carbs, remove the float needle seats from the carb body and inspect/replace the "O" rings. Also remove the little screen "Top Hat" fuel filters that are hidden on the back side of the needle seats as they can ice up or clog and create a mystery lean condition.
 
Lakehouse2021 said:
I've got it back together and running. Feels like I'm chasing a rich fuel condition, like one or both chokes are on. I've swapped jets from 150 all the way up to 156 and not getting better low end performance. I've checked the choke cables for freeplay (about 1/16"). Now I'm thinking it may be internal to the carbs? The new cylinder seems to be leaner than the old one. Checked plugs on a coast down, lots of unburned gas.

I'm thinking I'll tear the carbs down and see if something is wrong, but I dont know how the internal choke should be set, any thoughts?
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You can go down a size or two on the pilots. Aside from that the rich condition will be the needle jets are worn out.(I've shown that in other threads here).
The mains can be 150 if you have the thick head gasket.
 
74Nitro said:
You can go down a size or two on the pilots. Aside from that the rich condition will be the needle jets are worn out.(I've shown that in other threads here).
The mains can be 150 if you have the thick head gasket.
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Interesting on the head gasket, I hadn't thought of that and I just replaced it. It was in a kit and gasket was an MLS, not sure of the size though. Thanks!!
 
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