Can a tripple piped Viper be reliable and decent on gas?

Simons CPR, Bender, and SLP recommend leaving them plugged into the air box when used on a stock engine. Not sure about the other manufacturers.
 

Just threw the bill on the head Mod.

Jeff charged me $150 for the head mod., but that was 2 years ago and I think it was the savior to running the SLP's and other stuff with no worry about crappy gas/deto/etc.

Just my seat exprience at 1200ft. in No. MN. I knew it was 23cc on the cut. Snakebit, just bolt and go. I did not copper anything and that gasket ran flawlessly. No BS.
 
So it sounds like CPR's with the head cut mod and opticool headgasket is the way oo go. What should I do for clutching ?
 
Jeff will be a BIG help with clutching if you get pipes from him or have him do any work for you. He makes some great kits to go with his power.
 
Milage depends on how you ride it. I thought the piped vipers were hard on gas until my buddy bought a stock one this year. We ran hard together one day and his light came on before mine. I have the Hauk venom kit with the head mod and rear exchanger and no engine trouble for 8700 miles. I do have an overheat problem, but I think it is the cooling system after I had an exchanger repaired, still have to get to the bottom of it. The cooling problem started at about 7200 miles, but I don't think it is motor related.
 
the biggest thing that affects mileage besides carb set up is the clutching. A good clutch set up will get much better mileage than a poor setup. Efficiency is important all the way down the chain.
 
I only get 12 miles a gallon stock. It seems to be rich as it is. If I could 10 miles a gallon with the Viper on Steroids.. That would rock. I just got to find the parts now. ;)!
 
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you only get 10 mpg stock? You definately have something wrong. My cousins viper was acting the same way this winter and after looking at everything and having the carbs apart several times i found the fuel pump to be bad (the diaphragm was hanging up, letting too much fuel by. You might notice fuel dripping out of the bottom of your airbox, that is a definate symptom because the bowls fill up too much and the fuel goes back through the vents into the airbox.
 
Crap

Just threw my set-up out, but with "any pipes", my set-up would be stock OE secondary, (can't get any cheaper than that) stock primary with the exception of 8DN-20's with 14.5 outer and 13.9 inner. 8,900 spot on everytime. (i think) gearing at 21-39 I think. Last I had was 23-40 for a little more on top.

I looked at it before I threw it last week, so I am pretty sure. Im' sure others can chime in also.

Tom
 
I think 21/39 is definately kinda low for everyday trail riding unless they are some REAL tight trails. I would go with the 23/40 setup over that, maybe even 23/39
 
What rollers are you running with the 8DN-20's? If you still have the 14.5s in there it is providing WAY more belt force than necessary which makes it inefficient, and could be just one more thing contributing to bad mileage. Like i said, good, efficient clutching is key to good mileage on any setup.
 
no low end power? I dont know about that. I have had great luck with the simons. How much does low end matter for a trail sled anyway? Anytime you stab it, it goes right to the max power rpm anyway (if you have it clutched correctly), that is the whole point of CVT transmission. Its not like something you have to switch gears in so it takes power to get through the gears. It is always at its maximum power output if you are loading it full.
 
Had the stock rollers in it. Gees , I thought the 14.5's worked great. Seemed, not too hot and belt life was 2,500 to 3,500 miles and it pinned at 8,900 everytiime.

Only persons I lost to was a ZRT 800 with a 1050 kit in it and a way hot 03 RX-1. Yup all F-7's, Rev 800's, etc.

Well, who knows, it is out know anyways, going back to stock.
 
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