Re shim

are you sure the secondary is closed all the way (sheaves touching) and not binding? are you measuring at the highest point of the belt (the cogs)? are you using an original 8DN yamaha belt?
 

when standing above the secondary and lookind down on it.

in between the 2 sheaves in the center there is about a space 4mm apart from each other

and yes im using a 8DN belt its a new one

the dealership wound up my spring so i can get sanpier responce would that matter

thebelt is still below the edge of the sheave even when i replace the 3bolts with new ones andwith a new belt.
 
As n2oiroc said, be sure to 'seat' the belt prior to checking if it's at the proper sheave height. Once I install a belt, it always sits way down, that's because the two sheave halves have not come together (because the belts sitting way too low). Do this, lock the parking brake to keep the secondary from turning, with your left hand, grab the belt where it sits in the primary and cinch it to keep it from turning. Now, with your right hand, grab the helix (angled ramps) on the face of the secondary and try pushing in on it to force the belt up as high as it will go on the secondary. With your left hand, you may have to push the belt a bit from the primary in the direction of the secondary to get every little bit of slack out of the belt. Keep doing this as it will keep allowing your belt to ride higher and higher onto the sheaves. If it's a new belt and you have the proper washer/bolts, it will sit between the specs of 1.5 (+-) on the sheaves.

Jon
 
something must be binding in the secondary clutch. the sheaths should touch with no bolts or washers in it. by binding, i mean something must be stuck because it should close all the way. perhaps a bushing or maybe it's your secondary spring tension. try removing the helix and see if it closes all the way.

the spring might be in wrong and causing the problem. put it back in the stock position.
 
Just a couple things about my post above.......Without being by my sled and going from memory, you actually don't have to lock the parking brake. Also, when you're trying to get your belt to move up higher in the secondary, your right hand should be grabbing the helix and twisting the entire secondary to the left. With your left hand, 'feed' the belt higher towards the secondary. This always gets my belts as high as possible in the secondary...

Jon
 
If the secondary does not have any bolts in it & it has that much gap something is not right they should be together! doing all this right now! new belt, getting the right shims , but with no bolts mine are tight together!
 
i would remove the spring and see if it closes all the way. when the dealer cranked up the spring they might have messed it up.
 
He is right about the secondary closing. With no bolts in the back, the secondary should close all the way, and that belt will be up above the sheaves. The bolts hold the secondary OPEN a little bit to make the belt looser (further down in the sheaves), so with no bolts it should close up tight, and the belt will be as tight as possible for a given center to center distance. Another thing that could be making the belt pull down into the sheaves some is the center to center. If your center to center is too long the belt will act short, and will not come to the top of the secondary. You need to measure your center to center and alignment first. After that is verfiied and/or corrected, then we will worry about what is going on with the secondary. That gap between the sheaves looks about right for a new belt if the center to center is correct.
 
shouldnt the bolts always be there i mean when i bought the sled with a new belt and new bolts should it go back that way if i have a new belt and bolts i dont know maybe im wrong

another question does anyone know the distance im supposed to have when i measure from center to center and when u say center to center is the center of the primary bolt and the center of the secondary bolt

thanks for all the help guys
 
you are correct about the center to center, bolt to bolt.
You have a problem in the secondary. As people are saying it should be closed all the way. You may have a bushing that is binding.
I would remove the helix and spring and check if you clutch will open and close freely. If not it is binding. You may have bad bushings in that case.
 
this is a simple task.
There are three botls holding the helix. Take these out evenly not one at a time to not put any uneven pressure on the helix from the spring.
Note what number on the helix your spring is sitting in.
Remove the helix paying attention to the number on the clutch side where the psring is located. Pull the helix and spring. It is a little difficult to explain but if you are at all mechanically inclined this will be simple.
This is all done with the clutch still in the sled.
Once the helix and spring are removed you should be able to open and close the clutch without anything binding. If nothing binds then your helix and spring could have cause a problem. Make sure the helix is clean and the surface that slides on the clutch is smooth. Reinstall and check again.
Good Luck
 
Hey! No experience! I live in Kentucky! No dealers here for me to lean on! You can do it! This forum is the best & the people will help you ! It is not a big job & soon you will be answering ?'s here just like this because you will have done it! I had to!
Harry Balzonya said:
for someone with no experiece taking a clutch apart do u think it would be a good idea

how difficult is it to remove the helix and spring and get it to go back that way it came out
Click to expand...
 
reshim reshim reshim

I just got my sled back a few days ago i got the machanic there to reshim my secondary
the belt is still below the sheeve
he put an extra waher on each bolt
keep in mind the the belt and the 3 blots are brand new

what is the problem here.
 
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