Hi everyone!.
I recently sold my old V-Max 600 to a friend, today I was going to help him swop the original primary with a Comet EXP108, the old primary is ****ed up.
However, we managed to loosen the center bolt, and then we installed the puller. Tightened it pretty hard, tried hammering on it, nothing happened. Tightened even harder, harder and harder. Nothing happened, we took the puller out and it turned out that the puller had got bent.
Just look:
We obviously need a new puller and I will order one on Monday, but what are we missing here?. Why wount it come off?. I`m thinking of using a propane heater to make the iron expand so that it will come off easier, should I do this or not?.
Do you guys also have problems with this`?.
How to keep the primary from rotating, hehe, if you`re not going to re-use it that is!
.
Poor Norwegian guys , 1-0 to the primary.
Please guys I would really appreciate some tips causing this problem to be solved!
Joakim
I recently sold my old V-Max 600 to a friend, today I was going to help him swop the original primary with a Comet EXP108, the old primary is ****ed up.
However, we managed to loosen the center bolt, and then we installed the puller. Tightened it pretty hard, tried hammering on it, nothing happened. Tightened even harder, harder and harder. Nothing happened, we took the puller out and it turned out that the puller had got bent.
Just look:
We obviously need a new puller and I will order one on Monday, but what are we missing here?. Why wount it come off?. I`m thinking of using a propane heater to make the iron expand so that it will come off easier, should I do this or not?.
Do you guys also have problems with this`?.
How to keep the primary from rotating, hehe, if you`re not going to re-use it that is!
.
Poor Norwegian guys , 1-0 to the primary.
Please guys I would really appreciate some tips causing this problem to be solved!
Joakim
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Maybe you should just take that poor sled to hsperformance? 
hsperformance, what`s that? .
Taking the sled to a dealer is not an option as for the costs getting damn high.
.Taking the sled to a dealer is not an option as for the costs getting damn high.
I have had the same problem in the past with both of my SRV's. Solution here in the states would be to purchase a high quality puller from Aaeens performance or some other reputable supplier. Some of the cheaper places do not harden their pullers properly. After purchasing a better puller, use a couple of pumps of grease in the hole where the puller goes. Try to get in the bottom of the hole. The grease will increase the pressure you are applying. It may take a couple of tries with this method, but it WORKS!! I wouldn't apply heat if possible. The aluminum portion of your clutch will expand faster than the steel sleeve, possibly separateing the sleeve from the clutch body. You can still rap it with a hammer, but don't get to rambunctious with the hammer. You can damage the crankshaft bearings with to much pounding. Hope this info helps.
Dave
Dave
Hi viperdave ! . Thanks so much for the reply!. So, our problem is probably the bad quality puller?. It was cheap, only around 30$.
The grease trick sounds smart, will try that when we get the new puller.
How much is a good quality puller?.
The grease trick sounds smart, will try that when we get the new puller.
How much is a good quality puller?.
They can be had here in the States for around $25 with shipping. I fyou have access to some antisieze, you can lightly coat the crankshaft after you remove the clutch. This will help the next time you need to pull the clutch. OYu should be able to get a Yamaha brand puller from your dealer. Might cost more, but you know you are getting a better puller.
Dave
Dave
Ok thanks again dave !. Wierd, when looking at the price, you should think that the puller we got was a good quality one, since it costed around 30$, but then again, parts like that are way cheaper in the United States then in Norway.
I think I will call my dealer and ask how much a Yamaha puller is.
Thanks Viper Dave.
I think I will call my dealer and ask how much a Yamaha puller is.
Thanks Viper Dave.
carefull with anti-siez when my dealer had this problem pulling clutch off my v-max 600 he said he put anti-sieze in there so it would come off easy the next time. Low and behold that next tuesday when he opened I was there because clutch kept coming loose. Crank end kept turning in clutch destroyed end of crank and clutch.Glad dealer did this and not me,he replaced everthing with some fighting on my part with him.
These to parts are ment to be metal to metal with nothing else in there .My self i just clean inside of clutch and end of crank very well then install them
just my two cents.
These to parts are ment to be metal to metal with nothing else in there .My self i just clean inside of clutch and end of crank very well then install them
just my two cents.
I also have had a couple of clutches stick, here is what I did, Lift the side of the sled about six inches or more, with the clutch bolt out pour some tranny fluid in the hole where the bolt was, pour enough to fill the hole about half way, insert your puller and tighten it till it pop's off, the tranny fluid will act as a hydraulic ram when compressed by the clutch puller, hammering the clutch puller too hard can loosen the magnet's on your flywheel and you won't know they are loose until you start the sled and that will damage your stator, It will get a little messy but it work's every time! good luck guy's, R.J.
Do not put anything on the crank end...keep it clean with a scotchbrite pad. Aplly mega amounts of heat to the inside of the primary while tightening. Get it nuclear hot. Been der dunn dat & that is the only thing that popped the primary off!
I have heard of applying heat to the center of clutch, by doing that ,if not careful, you can and probably will get the crank too hot, causing the seal to melt and possibly ruin the crank bearing, your choice,
I have used the grease trick with excellant results, let the power of hydraulics be your friend.
PowerValve-700
New member
I've seen people melt the crank seal before like rj21 said. The trick is to get a spray can (spray bomb, whatever you call it) of electrical contact cleaner and spray it on the seal and crank shaft while you apply heat to the clutch. The electrical contact cleaner is very cold when it comes out of the can, it keeps the seal from melting and also keeps the crank shaft from expanding from the heat.
in my opinion the grease is the best way. no worries about heating anything, not to much of a mess to clean up, and it worked every time I tried it.
Thanks for all the replys ! .
I didn`t think of the crank seal when it comes to heating, guess it isn`t that smart afterall. I will get a new puller, fill the hole with grease and then see what happens. I`m afraid we will bend the puller again, maybe I should order to pullers just to be on the safe side. If it wount come off after having used the grease trick, I will try to carefully heat the outside of the primary since heat makes the iron expand.
Gees I hope we will get it opp before the first snow falls.
. I didn`t think of the crank seal when it comes to heating, guess it isn`t that smart afterall. I will get a new puller, fill the hole with grease and then see what happens. I`m afraid we will bend the puller again, maybe I should order to pullers just to be on the safe side. If it wount come off after having used the grease trick, I will try to carefully heat the outside of the primary since heat makes the iron expand.
Gees I hope we will get it opp before the first snow falls
.
n2oiroc
New member
make sure to get a good quality puller like an oem one. if the puller breaks off you have more problems, and it does happen!kimoaj said:Thanks for all the replys !
I didn`t think of the crank seal when it comes to heating, guess it isn`t that smart afterall. I will get a new puller, fill the hole with grease and then see what happens. I`m afraid we will bend the puller again, maybe I should order to pullers just to be on the safe side. If it wount come off after having used the grease trick, I will try to carefully heat the outside of the primary since heat makes the iron expand.
Gees I hope we will get it opp before the first snow falls
skidooboy
New member
several of us gave you step by step instructions on how to get this done correctly. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15152
get a new puller, and try it again with the tips given, it should get it done for you. dont hit it with a hammer! be careful with heat. when you cant do it on your own find a good mechanic close to you and ask him to help or do it for you for a fee. you can permanently damage the crank taper, and bottom end of motor. dont get impatient, it willget quite expensive if you do. ski
get a new puller, and try it again with the tips given, it should get it done for you. dont hit it with a hammer! be careful with heat. when you cant do it on your own find a good mechanic close to you and ask him to help or do it for you for a fee. you can permanently damage the crank taper, and bottom end of motor. dont get impatient, it willget quite expensive if you do. ski
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I had a 98 SRX primary clutch that needed a lot more then grease. Try the grease 1st but if that does not work heat the inside of the primary clutch. You won,t hurt the crank seal...I had mine glowing red hot!
800
New member
what happens is you either had a miss match of the tapers or the thing may have come loose and spun on the crank, now shes welded. Then its lots of luck, it comes off however necessary. I've had a couple I had to cut off. When these guys tell you to get a good puller they mean a heavy duty hardened onepiece type, something you can yank on. Not a Yammie one. Get it as tight as you can, it appears that you have the right bar length. Then start heating it, get it red then try to tighten it some more. You may have to go to the smoke wrench.
When you put it back on you put nothing on the tapers, sure grease or never sieze makes it come off easier.........because its never really on. To make them come off easier, you must lap the tapers together with valve lapping compound then clean it and install it. A taper fit works it's best when the tapers are the same angle and they are clean.
When you put it back on you put nothing on the tapers, sure grease or never sieze makes it come off easier.........because its never really on. To make them come off easier, you must lap the tapers together with valve lapping compound then clean it and install it. A taper fit works it's best when the tapers are the same angle and they are clean.
Hi guys!.
Thanks alot for the tips, I bet they will come in handy.
Today I received the new puller, here is some pics of it.
Out of focus but..
I guess we will make a new try this week.
My plan is to:
-put grease in the hole
-install puller and tighten it until I think it`s enough
-carefully hammer the end of the puller
-if nothing happens, start heating the outside of the primary
How much grease should I put in there?. Should I fill the whole hole or only try to put it in the deepest hole?.
When it comes to the heating part, is it enough to use an electrical heating gun?. I have a propane heater but if the gun will do the job then it`s better to use it I guess.
When it comes off, I guess it pops off with a bang ?.
Thanks alot for the helpful posts!
Thanks alot for the tips, I bet they will come in handy.
Today I received the new puller, here is some pics of it.
Out of focus but..
I guess we will make a new try this week.
My plan is to:
-put grease in the hole
-install puller and tighten it until I think it`s enough
-carefully hammer the end of the puller
-if nothing happens, start heating the outside of the primary
How much grease should I put in there?. Should I fill the whole hole or only try to put it in the deepest hole?.
When it comes to the heating part, is it enough to use an electrical heating gun?. I have a propane heater but if the gun will do the job then it`s better to use it I guess.
When it comes off, I guess it pops off with a bang ?.
Thanks alot for the helpful posts!