Need help with waterpump seal!

Yamaholic - Thanks!

Yamahjake- I'm not messing with the oil seal, maybe I'll regret it but I am happy to just get her back together! ha ha
 

I think that is the best method if the prying method on both slots doesn't work. It popped out fairly quick after I got after it a little bit.
 
We'll the seal got me in the end after all. I got everything back together and started her up and it leaks worse then before. Practically runs out of the WP. Oh well keep plugging away at it grrrr....
 
Kinger,
Wait before you tear it down again, try this..Remove the pump cover and tap on the end of the shaft, this may square up the seal. I'm asuming it seals on the backside of the impeller. correct? run it dry for 45 seconds or so. i'd run the rpms up to about engagement. I have never done it on a snowmobile, but the mecanical seals iv'e done in the past leak sometimes even when new. A fellow mechanic told me about this little trick and it works sometimes. I know it sounds crude, but after the seals take a set they seem to last just as long. maybe worth try'in? we do it on die heater circulators and it's about a 50/50 shot. Those buggers gotta be perfectly square to the sealing surface!
 
Last edited:
Waterpump seal replacement sucks!

Just completed my attempt at replacing my seal and it is leaking worse than when I started.
It came out after carefully crushing in the sides like was mentioned and pulled it out.
I made sure the new one was completely seated (with a large socket and hammer) cleaned the mating surfaces of the seal and put her together.
Fired her up and it started dripping right away. I let it warm up good to see if it would stop...it didn't.
I opened it back up to make sure there was no debris on the areas were the seals run against each other. I put alittle gasket seal on the rubberized washer on the impeller bolt. After installing it I tapped on the impeller bolt as suggested.
I did not run it dry though.
Put it togther again and filled....SAME RESULT!!
Not sure what is causing this! Any ideas?
I really don't want to take it in and pay to have something like this done.....shouldn't be this hard!
Man this job sucks!!
 
I'd check the free play on the shaft and the surface where the seal rides. Dealers charge shy of $500 to do the job. The end up pulling the motor, replacing all the seals and the shaft.
 
Everything checked out OK and like mentioned above mine is leaking worse then when I started. I took her to the dealer. Found my limits being a amateur mechanic and working with a service manual! Thanks for the help guys I'll let you know what I end p paying when I get her back!
 
did you guys check the tightness of the splines on the end of the shaft to the splines on the impeller? This is pretty critical. Also, are you SURE you guys put a new sealing washer on the impeller bolt? Very expensive little washer, but it will leak like a sieve without a good one.
 
I used a new impeller and did NOT replace the washer cause I didn't know I needed one till I had her all together again. If that is what it is I'll be happy!
 
yes i have actually seen that happen a few times. If the rubber on the washer is torn at all it will allow it to leak. Can't believe how expensive those things are either. I've also tried using O-rings for this instead, DONT BOTHER, they dont work, they get hard from the heat.
 
I did not check to see how much play was in the impeller. How much is too much?
I will also pick up one of those impeller bolt washers, mine looks a little worn. How much torque is recommended when tighening it up?
I did speak with a service guy from a local dealer (Rick at Waukesha Power)
He was very helpful and said he himself had problems such as this. He said there were tech bulletins with tips from Yamaha for this problem.
He said to dry out the splines on the shaft and in the impellar. Apply a little WD-40 to the ceramic surface of the new seal to help it set better.
Then apply some red locktight to the splines, bolt it on and let set overnight to completely dry. He mentioned that doing this eliminates the play in the impeller.
Thanks for all the help guys!
 
Hey wisviper,

I was told to NOT loctite the splines because the impeller is supposed to move back and forth. I would be cautious when doing this.

9ft-lbs is the spec on the bolt.
 
no the o-rings i tried were just regular old ones with a hardware store. After those failed i went and dished out the coin for the right equipment, lol.
 
I did the same repair. The actual cause of it leaking was the shaft was slightly corroded and caused the rubber seal to tear. This caused my coolant to be pushed out my overflow resivoir and I could never get any pressure to build up in the cooling system. Mine never leaked at the pump area. I had to replace the inner seal and the outer seals. It was a bugger of a job so I pulled the motor and it was much easyer. The shaft and all the seals came to like $110.00 if I remember. This was also on my SXR-700 Doug
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top