rockin rob
New member
Has anyone used these weights on 2001 srx or an 03 viper?i have followed the instructions to a T and the result is the same. Fast and hard pulling, but incredible loss of top speed. I have called Super torqu for tech help and they have given me over 5 different things to try. everytime you call they have a new solution just updated. but evertime you change the configurations, its the same result, hit top speed and then it drops until it can hardly hold 90mph.
I was told by the manufacturer that the springs get heat soaked fast and loose their strength and top speed is lost.
any suggestions?
i have graphed all of my results, and I am ready to pitch them in the garbage. $300 x 2 for my sleds, in the garbage can. It seems that what you get in the acceleration is lost in the top. I have called their tech line and asked for help, and when it doesnt work, they stop answering. I have heard that this is a common problem many have had with them. it isnt proven reliable. so they will not stand behind their products.
i am planning to put a 1.25 inch rip saw on the srx and go 8 tooth non ratchet driver and stud it (re-geared) that is why i want to get the heel clickers to work so I can compenste the bigger lug and loss of power with more aggressive clutching.
ps i have tried many of the set ups in TY with the same results, springs die out after a half mile of WOT. i have so many hours playing and testing, that i give up! I have clutched a lot in my 20 years off riding, never with such inconsistancies or lack of success
Rob
on your viper, did you install a torque limiter? did you change your rollers to 15.6? are you using a blue spring?
i have only used them on vipers, this is what i found, the top speed would suck with the stock rollers as the weight would start working against itself tward the end. i used the 15.6 rollers with alot of extra weight in the tip to take care of this problem.
i was using a polaris blue/silver secondary with a hauck roller 48/34 and would show 122 on the trail even with the setup i got from him was over 115.
here are some dumb questions?
what belt and is it new?
have you checked the center to center?
have you checked your secondary shaft bearing?
have you checked your track for tension or to see if it is hitting?
have you checked tunnel protectors to see if they have come down?
on the viper is the carb vent in your air box?
on the srx and viper have you cleaned and adjusted your powervalves?
they way it sounds it is more of a power or drag problem than a clutch kit problem.
hope ive helped remind you of some simple things that sometimes get overlooked.
i have only used them on vipers, this is what i found, the top speed would suck with the stock rollers as the weight would start working against itself tward the end. i used the 15.6 rollers with alot of extra weight in the tip to take care of this problem.
i was using a polaris blue/silver secondary with a hauck roller 48/34 and would show 122 on the trail even with the setup i got from him was over 115.
here are some dumb questions?
what belt and is it new?
have you checked the center to center?
have you checked your secondary shaft bearing?
have you checked your track for tension or to see if it is hitting?
have you checked tunnel protectors to see if they have come down?
on the viper is the carb vent in your air box?
on the srx and viper have you cleaned and adjusted your powervalves?
they way it sounds it is more of a power or drag problem than a clutch kit problem.
hope ive helped remind you of some simple things that sometimes get overlooked.
How are rpm,s on top? Most guys have too much weight or not enuff secondary pressure. Usually lightening up the weights &(or) tightening the secondary will get that back. Gotta know what rpm,s are at & how your sled is set up now to help.
Is this close to whats happening??
These 2 guys just asked you all the important questions, post what you have it set up as now and the rpm information and one of us can dial it in.
Remember when your using a h/c weight, it acts as a progressive angle helix, it upshifts very quickly, so you also need to be a little less aggressive in the rear secondary helix selection. I have found that the shallower angles will yield better results then the steeper angles will. This is how I see your problem with just the information you posted: the sled takes off very well and accelerates nicely then will just quit pulling ,making noise only and no real pull up top. The rpm's have most likely fell off of 8400rpm after about 350ft( like to around 8000-8100), this is because you most likely have a secondary helix thats too big of a finish angle, the motor cant pull it and with the secondary clutch being torq. sensative begins to backshift, thus lowering the top speed. Any of this apply to your situation??
The easy solution to this problem is to use a helix such as a 48/34 that Betheviper mentioned, it will still uphift quickly but then will allow the engine to keep revving smoothly along with the clutch's, you get too far ahead of the engine using a helix thats too steep, because the clutch's upshift moving the belt higher rapidly in the front clutch, then the motor does not make enuff power at the same rate as the clutch to keep them up there. Its about the same as shifting a 5.0 mustang, from a side step of the clutch at 6000rpm, into 1st gear, smoking the tires and then going into 2nd gear , then to 4th , it will just drop rpm make noise and get into a dead zone and then take a long time to recover itself to get back into the meat of the torq. curve to allow the engine to recover from the overshift. You see the lower the finish angle is, the better it will keep the engine revving smoothly and allow you to clamp the belt better in the secondary, the shallower the angle, the more press. it applies to belt grip, the less pretension you will have to run, and in turn will yield a faster topend, you only need enuff side press. and pretension to keep the sled from pulling the belt down into the secondary clutch and overshifting. Roller secondarys are the exception to this rule, they need ALOT of spring to keep from overshifting from the friction loss of the rollers compared to the buttons. The last thing you will have to do is run more tip weight to compensate fro the lower finsih angle, but this is a good thing, it grabs the belt better and yieldsmore topend speed. I have found out thru my testing that I have had the best results from running no weight in the middle hole, just heel weight and tip weight only. When I ran weight in the middle hole it slowed the response of the engine down too much. Please post your set up and someone can easily help you dial it in on here.
These 2 guys just asked you all the important questions, post what you have it set up as now and the rpm information and one of us can dial it in.
Remember when your using a h/c weight, it acts as a progressive angle helix, it upshifts very quickly, so you also need to be a little less aggressive in the rear secondary helix selection. I have found that the shallower angles will yield better results then the steeper angles will. This is how I see your problem with just the information you posted: the sled takes off very well and accelerates nicely then will just quit pulling ,making noise only and no real pull up top. The rpm's have most likely fell off of 8400rpm after about 350ft( like to around 8000-8100), this is because you most likely have a secondary helix thats too big of a finish angle, the motor cant pull it and with the secondary clutch being torq. sensative begins to backshift, thus lowering the top speed. Any of this apply to your situation??
The easy solution to this problem is to use a helix such as a 48/34 that Betheviper mentioned, it will still uphift quickly but then will allow the engine to keep revving smoothly along with the clutch's, you get too far ahead of the engine using a helix thats too steep, because the clutch's upshift moving the belt higher rapidly in the front clutch, then the motor does not make enuff power at the same rate as the clutch to keep them up there. Its about the same as shifting a 5.0 mustang, from a side step of the clutch at 6000rpm, into 1st gear, smoking the tires and then going into 2nd gear , then to 4th , it will just drop rpm make noise and get into a dead zone and then take a long time to recover itself to get back into the meat of the torq. curve to allow the engine to recover from the overshift. You see the lower the finish angle is, the better it will keep the engine revving smoothly and allow you to clamp the belt better in the secondary, the shallower the angle, the more press. it applies to belt grip, the less pretension you will have to run, and in turn will yield a faster topend, you only need enuff side press. and pretension to keep the sled from pulling the belt down into the secondary clutch and overshifting. Roller secondarys are the exception to this rule, they need ALOT of spring to keep from overshifting from the friction loss of the rollers compared to the buttons. The last thing you will have to do is run more tip weight to compensate fro the lower finsih angle, but this is a good thing, it grabs the belt better and yieldsmore topend speed. I have found out thru my testing that I have had the best results from running no weight in the middle hole, just heel weight and tip weight only. When I ran weight in the middle hole it slowed the response of the engine down too much. Please post your set up and someone can easily help you dial it in on here.
Last edited:
Srxspec
Your #1 performance shop!
One other thing to add.
Check the area that I underlined. It's another way to trouble shoot.
Mr Pizor, you're sure up early this morning! Those deer like to breed in the morning eh?
Check the area that I underlined. It's another way to trouble shoot.
Mr Pizor, you're sure up early this morning! Those deer like to breed in the morning eh?
B2SO
New member
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- Aug 18, 2003
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- 53
Here is my .02 , And my snowmobile brain is about 1/10 the size of the other guys that have posted so take it for whats its worth ... I was in the same boat as you last year , sled would pull hard from the bottom to 88 mph then just fricken stick at 88 mph , Ran sweet up to 88 then not a penny more , I was going to bail on the weights this year and still may if i cant get them to work , but when i was doing my fall cleaning i checked my center to center and my off set ......WOW was it way off , i would say close to 3 inchs to the left and had a little twist to it , i am hoping that will take care off the problem, but i would check and make sure everything is lined up perfect , and what ever the other guys are tell you , this year i am going with a roller sec. with a 46/34 helix or a 48/34 . the one neat thing about the team sec. two helixs in one ..good luck
rockin rob
New member
thanks guys. One thing I have checked all center to center etc, but when I switch back to the stock weights etc, i have no problem at all with top speed and no rpm drop. it was just like you guys said, accelerates fast hits 100mph 350 feet later rpms drop to 7800 and no power nad rpms keeps dropping.
the stock helix on the srx is a 48 so a 48/34 might be good. is it good on hardpack and powder or just hardpack? I am most concerned abouut the srx, but 4 of us have these things, and the same result for each of us. What about the primary, do i need to go smaller rollers?
thanks
Rob
the stock helix on the srx is a 48 so a 48/34 might be good. is it good on hardpack and powder or just hardpack? I am most concerned abouut the srx, but 4 of us have these things, and the same result for each of us. What about the primary, do i need to go smaller rollers?
thanks
Rob
Junior
New member
B2SO said:
it's waiting for the flux capacitor to kick in man.
auji700triple
New member
Than your going back to the future...HOLD ON
B2SO
New member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2003
- Messages
- 422
- Age
- 53
auji700triple said:
I hope so !!! they better do there little shift thing or there going back for original hc's .......Ill let you all know what the future sleds look like when i get back >>>
You have too much mass in the weights...you gotta remove some. You can do that(recommended) or go to a dual angle helix with a shallow finish. Still gotta know how your hc,s are set up now!!!!
iahacker
Member
Rockin Rob...any new developments on getting the HC's to work?
By your description I assume these are the 2 speed weights. I'll be very interested in where you end up with them cause I got a set for my SRX and haven't had any snow yet to try them out. They sent me the 40-20's. The set up sheet that came with is for 40-10's. After a couple phone calls they said to run them bare...no weight in the shoulder or tip. Now I gatta tear mine back apart cause I put the weight on like the set up sheet said.
Please let the rest of us know what happens.
Thanks
By your description I assume these are the 2 speed weights. I'll be very interested in where you end up with them cause I got a set for my SRX and haven't had any snow yet to try them out. They sent me the 40-20's. The set up sheet that came with is for 40-10's. After a couple phone calls they said to run them bare...no weight in the shoulder or tip. Now I gatta tear mine back apart cause I put the weight on like the set up sheet said.
Please let the rest of us know what happens.
Thanks