cleaning carbs...

bluelightning

bluelightning

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Joined
Nov 15, 2005
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151
Age
40
Location
bristol CT
as some of you may or may not know from another thread of mine, i have trouble getting my sled to start, but once it starts it runs fine. its pretty much general concensus that my carbs need to be cleaned. this is my first sled, and to be honest i have no idea where to start. i am somewhat mechanically inclined, but the thought of cleaning 3 carbs and keeping them all in sync seems very daunting to me! any pointers for a first-time carb cleaner? lol
 
Yeah, leave them on the rack, no need to take them apart or have to worry about resyncing them. It is an easy job once you have done it once. Just take your time and go slow. Maxdlx
 
When you are putting the carbs back on, a small amound of silicone spray will make the boots slip right on. Add a fuel shut off, and at the end of the season, drain the carbs, which means crack open the drain bolts and the main jet access cover. If you do this you may never have to clean them again.
 
very true grape!!! Keeping fuel off of the mains and pilots in the storage months will pretty much cure the need to clean them in the fall.
 
I did this for the first time ever and it was the first time I seen a carb! It was easy, took all of 30 mins once the rack is out of the sled. I was intimidated at first but its super easy.

Ape and yamahaolic - Isn't going through the work of getting to the carbs to drain just as time consuming as pulling them off and cleaning? You can't drain them while attached to the sled yet can you? It didn't look like there was enough room to get under there once installed on the boots.
 
every year i just drain them, and run it off the choke to get all the fuel out. first ride i also run a little fuel system cleaner to the gas.
 
ok well looks like i have a project for thursday afternoon after school. do you think this will solve my no-start dilemma? i used starting fluid to start it and it ran fine, but besides that it wont start
 
Ummm... I wouldn't go using starting fluid if I were you... unless you're looking for another project like rebuilding the engine...

Starting fluid = no lubrication which can = a big problem in a little amount of time
 
yes once again, PLEASE dont use starter fluid on a two stroke unless its an absolute emergency for some reason, washes all the oil off the cylinder walls and bearings, metal on metal doesn't last long. Only thing i use starter fluid for on two strokes is to check crankcase seals.
 
You're probably fine, you would know it quick enough if the engine locked up. You definately didn't help it any but just dont use it again and you will probably be just fine.
 
Nope you'll be fine. I do it all the time on my sons 440. Most either has upper cylinder lube in it anymore, and as long as they where quick short blasts it will be ok. Maxdlx
 
Back to the topic, lol. When I drain my carbs, I do them on the sled with old rags to catch the gas. I would rather spend my time polishing the sled compared to setting the throttle and choke cable and dealing with the green stuff.
 
yea lol sorry to distract from the main topic....back to that....where should i start? i mean, i looked under the hood today, and dont even know whre to begin!!!! please excuse me for being a newbie, but seems like there are 3 ignition-coil-looking things that need to be removed to get the carbs out? everything is so cramped up under there
 
You first need to remove the air box. you can just unbolt the coils, and unhook 2 wires on the mag end and lay them on the cylinders. Remove the air box then. Next you need to unhook the choke and the throttle cable. You also need to unhook the 2 tors wires. Then you loosen the carb boots and pull the carbs out. Lastly you need to unhook the 3 fuel lines. Like I said earlier, take your time, don't get in a hurry, and it is a breaze. Maxdlx
 
carb cleaning help

i have never cleaned the carbs before, but i have the rack out right now....is there a quick and easy way to clean them properly without taking them all apart.?
 
Flip them upside down. In the bottom of the bowls there is 4 small phillips head screws. Little trick is take a cordless drill, and set it on one of the low settings. Let it hammer like a impact, and slowly turn up the juice. They will come out that way. If you do round them out, needle nose vice grips work on them. I replace them with allen head bolts on all sleds I do. Once you get the bowl off you will see the main, and pilot. take them out, and spray the inside out good with carb and choke cleaner, spay it up where the jets go, and up the needle. Open the sledes up and spray up the needle and nozzle. Spay the jets out, and use air preasure on the pilot to make sure it is clean. Then reassemble. Simple as that, you'll take less time to do that then it took my 2 fingers to type this. LOOL Maxdlx
 
I know this is off the topic, but if ever need to use starting fluid, all you should need to do is spray some in each spark plug and not into the cylinder. My starter rope broke on the first pull of a very cold morning in the UP last year. After I then proceded to break the emergency rope in the tool kit, I was able to start the sled with a spray of starter fuild in each spark plug and a pull from a nylon strap starter rope out of a Polaris.
G.B.
 
Lol, i know what you mean about the rope breaking, did the same thing and dind't have anything else, so i put my glove back on and pulled the clutch quick, got it started by HAND!! :WayCool:
 
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